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-   -   Grading questions in general and for 1967 Topps (http://www.net54baseball.com/showthread.php?t=136214)

George Baseball 04-26-2011 09:06 PM

Grading questions in general and for 1967 Topps
 
I'm now just getting back into the hobby after a long time, and doing a lot of internet reading and research.

It seems to me in general that a PSA graded 9 MT card will sell for 3 times what a nice graded NM-MT 8 card will for the 1967 set.

If a card is $300 at PSA 8, then it will be $900 at PSA 9. This ratio seems to be the same for common cards at 8 and 9 as well.

As an example the 67 Brooks Robinson (which I need to replace), and is one of my favorite cards of all time... is selling for $1200+ at PSA 9....yet the 8's I've seen are all over the place in price.

I guess what it comes down to is what is acceptable to an individual collector. Off center is not a pet peeve of mine if it has sharp corners and bright color.

I'm going to be attempting to finish/re-finish the 7th series from 67, I have found that the cards from that high series are always in better condition, because by the time they were out in stores in September, it was Football season, and that population did not get abused as much by kids.

Any thoughts on the 8 and 9 issue I stated above? Just how "Rare" are 7th series PSA 9's in real terms?

VinTX 04-27-2011 12:56 AM

as far as determining exactly how rare a specific card is, your best bet is to check the population report on PSA's website. They keep records of everything they grade and will be able to tell you on any given card how many have been submitted and the breakdown of how many got each grade. For example, your 1967 Topps Brooks Robinson card has had 816 total submissions. Of those, 187 received an "8" where only 19 received a "9" so you can see that this particular card in a PSA 9 grade is fairly rare. Incidently only 1 has received a 10 grade.

another thing to be aware of, especially if you plan to start buying graded cards on the market to upgrade those in your set is the qualifiers. Not sure if you're aware of those or not but typically most people will tell you that a card with a qualifier is equivalent valuewise to a card with no qualifiers 2 grades lower. So for example if you have a PSA 9 (MC) (MC meaning miscut) it should sell for approximately the same as a straight PSA 7.

As far as pricing, there are a few different sources you can refer to to get an idea. One is the SMR which is a price guide published by PSA specifically for graded cards. You will typically find pricing on ebay etc to be fairly consistent with the SMR, though there are always deals to be had. Another is the VCP which is an online price guide that tracks ebay sales and auction house sales can provides an average price based on those. Then some people just go on ebay and check out completed listings to get an idea of what similar things have sold for recently. It's really just a question of whatever you're comfortable with.

The 3:1 ratio probably holds true for some cards, but I wouldn't use it as a guide as it won't always be the case. For example in the '67 set, the Cepeda (card #20) has an SMR value of $100 for an 8 and $825 for a 9 so that's a little over 8:1. The Robinson you mentioned for 8 and 9 is 415 and 1000 respectively so that's about 2.5:1 So it really just depends on the card, and of course ones that are very rare are going to command premiums. At first it can all seem a little daunting but there are lots of tools to help you out including the fine folks here at Net 54. I'm currently working on 2 graded sets myself and find that the SMR and also looking at recent sales give me a pretty good idea of what a good price range is for any given card.

Hope this info helps a little and good luck!

George Baseball 04-27-2011 02:50 PM

re
 
Very helpful information vinTX, Thanks.

One thing I'm seeing on eBay is this...It is very very easy to tweak the scan of a card up a color notch or two. I'm seeing cards that are ridiculously color bright, and also some that may be more subtle. For PSA graded cards you can sometimes see if the color scan has been fooled with as the red on the PSA sticker is bright red.

Others though its tough to tell until you would hold the card in your hand.

Any thoughts on this, as its clear this is going on?

I guess the best way to buy is from someone that has a return policy.

Leon 04-27-2011 03:47 PM

what I do...
 
First of all buying from someone with a return policy is a good thing. Always check to see the sellers feedback (if it's perfect and high there is a better chance of a square deal) too.

As for brightness of cards. You can, many times, tell if the card has been enhanced digitally by the things around it. If it is in a slab and the slab, or surroundings, is really (too) bright then you know the card is probably enhanced also. If the holder is regular and the card is nice and bright, most times (not all), the card will not have been enhanced. If someone takes the time to alter the card while not altering the holder, then this situation is moot. That is when the return policy and feedback come into play. You can always email or PM folks on the board, privately, to ask about ongoing auctions if you don't care to alert the rest of the world.

And lastly, we had that conversation upon your registration and you are doing a fine job. You can always PM me with any questions on anything and I will help, as I said I would. take care

LanceRoten 04-27-2011 06:31 PM

return policy is always good. and glad to know i'm not the only one who noticed some cards getting a "splash" of color to help appearances :D


Quote:

Originally Posted by George Baseball (Post 890064)
Very helpful information vinTX, Thanks.

One thing I'm seeing on eBay is this...It is very very easy to tweak the scan of a card up a color notch or two. I'm seeing cards that are ridiculously color bright, and also some that may be more subtle. For PSA graded cards you can sometimes see if the color scan has been fooled with as the red on the PSA sticker is bright red.

Others though its tough to tell until you would hold the card in your hand.

Any thoughts on this, as its clear this is going on?

I guess the best way to buy is from someone that has a return policy.


George Baseball 06-02-2011 01:47 PM

re
 
Hi Guys, I am going to post this question in my original thread. I am still doing my research and haven't bought anything yet. I have now taken all of my high grade cards (67-68-69) and placed them into soft sleeves then back into the 4 screw slabs. I have also removed all my quality common cards from old 9 sheet pages and placed them into soft sleeves then into ultra pro top loaders.

I don't know whether to buy graded or ungraded cards at this point. For instance on Ebay I'm looking at a 1967 Juan Pizarro and a good looking non graded NM+ is selling for $49 dollars and PSA8 's are available for around $100-109 dollars. I guess I have to make the decision of what to do here. The grading I suspect will make the card easier to sell in the future, as the non graded card will always be subject to no one agreeing on the exact condition of a card. So for approx $50 bucks more I can get the card that is graded in the same condition. This difference is going to add up significantly over many cards however. Do you think non-graded cards in those years will be really frowned upon in lets say ten years? Opinions please.

Have any of you bought cards from a dealer on Ebay and then returned them within the return time frame because once you see the card in your hand it wasn't as you thought it looked online????

Thanks for replies

George Baseball 06-02-2011 02:45 PM

I was just looking again online for a 1967 Mike Shannon. Deans Cards has this card for $337 dollars at psa 7.5............ There are 3 on Ebay at psa 8 that are $160/$175/and $210

This is part of my confusion the large differences in price out there by seemingly reputable dealers.


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