Looking for advice to buy a new binder
 

My ancient binder, housing my T206 collection, some 80 pages, finally popped a bolt, and I need a new one.
I was going to go to Staples, but, given the value that it holds, I thought that I might ask for advice here first, to get the best, if something better exists.

I'd say that it has to be heavy duty, at least 3"wide, and that any protective features would be welcome. I prefer simple/unadorned to fancy.

Thanks in advance for your input.

Doug

Good question. I’m also about to purchase some new binders and am looking for recommendations. I like the idea of getting binders that come with slip covers.

MJ Roop binders are pretty nice, not sure about for T cards. I have several of them from fifties sets I have broken for individual card sets. I think I have 1952, 55. 57, and a couple others. These are no longer manufactured and can only be found in collections and on the secondary market.

I use these and have nothing but excellent things to say about them

https://www.lighthouse.us/vario-g-pa...mechanism.html

the D ring is fantastic, pages lay flat, and the slip cover is great. I have a few of them for different sets.

I put mine in vintage old 3 ring binders. My 1953 Bowman color & b/w set in a period, black pebble leatherette binder, along with 1953 Bowman color wax wrapper and a Beech Nut Allie Reynolds ad with same color photo as his card. Likewise, my 1962 Topps set in a period 3 ring binder, with a 5 cent wrapper. All 598 cards won't fit, so I put the cards in by league and by team in the order they finished the 1962 season, with the Babe Ruth and Rookie Parade and World Series cards in the middle and the checklists in the back. Only the stars and players I remember or are otherwise rookies or important. The rest of the set I keep in the usual cardboard sleeve box. Both binders look great to me.

They are pricey, but the best I have ever used

Bindertek makes a nice series of slipcased binders. No matter what you choose, I think a slipcase is vital, along with stiff front and back page lifters.

I use Itoya art ProFolios for everything, including cards.

The 9 X 12 size is best for card pages.

https://itoya.com/products/presentat...-art-profolio/

Doug

I second these for oversized items. Affordable as well as convenient as they come in a range of sizes to fit almost anything…even those giant Police Gazette premiums.

Two options here for archival quality binders with slipcases:

https://nativearchival.com/product/c...bum-slip-case/
https://www.archivalmethods.com/cate...inders-albums/

.

I took Doug's advice a few years ago about Itoya portfolios now most of my PC is in them.

I have also liked the few MJ Root's I bought. I might have one that's empty PM me if interested.

Archival Methods

I glue all of my cards into a scrapbook with a thick epoxy.

That's nothing. I run mine through the shredder, then carefully put them back together with thick epoxy on a sheet of cardboard, then spray the cardboard sheet with thick coats of clear coat, then encase the sheet in lucite.

This. expensive but well made.

https://www.lighthouse.us/ringbinder...-slipcase.html

They've already been mentioned, but I really like these:

https://www.archivalmethods.com/category/binders

The problem with all the binders is curvature of the bottom of the pages over time, unless you have the binders completely stuffed, either with pages or some sort of extra packing.

I prefer the Itoya profolios (for small items like cards in pages, or, if using the small sized profolios, for individual cards or postcards) is no curving.

And for large items like "giant Police Gazette premiums" and even more giant Baseball Magazine m113 posters, or even more more giant newspaper pages, there is pretty much a size for everything.

Doug

You guys make use of BCW binder sleeves for raw cards?

Cardboard is child's play. If you really want to protect your cards, replace that cardboard with teak. Teak floats in water, so even if there's a Biblical-level flood, someone will eventually find your Prewar goodies atop Mt. Ararat a couple millennia from now.

I use the Lighthouse binders as well, with slipcase, and they are fantastic.

+1 for Archival Methods.

I bought one of their D-Ring binders with a slip case for my 52 Bowman set. And then I purchased a few of their divider/page turner inserts to separate the raw pages from the graded pages (I have my graded cards in four pocket pages behind the raw in nine pocket pages). I wanted a sturdy divider between the two so the hard edges of the graded cards didn't indent the raw card page right next to it.

Looks great and binder feels more "high end" than a standard office binder.


Attachment 586647

Attachment 586648

I’ve been planning on purchasing binders that come with slipcases and was hoping the slipcases would help prevent page curvature by limiting the ability of the binder covers to open up while on a shelf. Have you experienced page curvature even when using slipcases?

I store my slipcase binder flat (i.e. laying down) to make sure and avoid any possible curvature. So no, I have not had any problems with curvature, but it's not a valid test for what you are asking. In theory I would assume the slipcase would help with avoiding curvature when stored vertically, but would like to hear from collectors that store them that way.

How many pages will a lighthouse F vs. G hold?

G is significantly larger than F

I use G for my 1950s Topps sets and F for t206

G comfortably holds 1959 (572 cards in 64 9-pocket pages). I’m not close to finishing t206 yet but it seems like F will work for the set of 520.

I store the binders in slipcases horizontal, with the rings on top and the pages dangling down. Seems to be working just fine and the slipcases allow for that.

Thanks to all
 

Who replied.
James, I bought the Vario binder and am very pleased.
Pricey but excellent.
Thanks.

Doug

I have a related question. What binder sheets do you recommend for graded slabs that can hold both SGC and PSA slabs (I have cards that are graded by both companies.)

Here's another vote for Archival Methods.
I buy 90% of my storage items from them and everything has been excellent quality. This is one time that you will get what you pay.

To each his own. I do understand how people would appreciate the aesthetically-pleasing aspects of some of the binders/slipcases as featured in this thread. Just my personal opinion, but other than that aspect, I'm not seeing the rationale for spending that kind of money for binders.

I'm of the camp that values functionality and practicality over aesthetics. We spend so much on the cards and memorabilia already. Some would use that as an argument for buying the expensive binders. I understand that line of thinking, but it's not for me. I'd rather use that money to buy more cards, thanks. Sturdy, safe binders can be found with ease for next to nothing practically everywhere you turn. Online secondhand sellers, thrift stores. Just make sure they are sturdily constructed, have D rings and that the clasps are all flush where they click together.

Some of the best binders I've found were free of charge. People just give this stuff away. They all work fine. Just can't justify the prices I'm seeing for some of these. Not seeing anything special with the products. Keep in mind, however, that I only store raw cards and ephemera in my binders.

Keep an eye out for law firms that are downsizing/remodeling or a lawyer who may be retiring. Very beautiful and once-expensive binders can be found this way. And, if it's uniformity you seek in your binders, this strategy tends to pay off in that respect as well.

Different Approach
 

I went in a slightly different direction for my binders, based on cost and issues with curvature. I purchased these thin plastic stackable bins from Amazon (comes to about $5.50 a bin when purchased in bulk). The team sets are in a low cost Oxford presentation binder. The team labels were purchased off a vendor on eBay (again .... very lost cost).