Quote:
Originally Posted by Zach Wheat
WhiteSoxFan,
I think your card is good from the images posted. The biggest discrepancies between some of the really good fakes and legit cards - all have to do with the lettering in the embossed area. This is the only detail that is consistently incorrect in the really well done fake DS logos. I guess using the correct font and spacing is hard to duplicate (Legit logo has palm leaf pointing between the "R & A" unlike the fake logo in the illustration below where it points between the "E" & "R"). The letters on your card align up with the spacing on other legit cards.
As first noted by 4Reals and later detailed in the other N54 posts, your card should be a glow back - or printed in the period after they added brighteners to the red ink on the reverse of the card. As discussed in the thread, a high percentage of DS cards (not all, but 99% +/- range) should be glow backs. A legit 1991 Topps DS Chipper card should be printed on sheet "F*" (or the updated "Board F" as noted by the F* on the reverse near the copyright logo) which is consistent with your card.
For reference, following is a pic of a fake DS shield I've uploaded to demonstrate the font & spacing issues.....most notable is the letters "E" & "N" in the word Operation are shifted a half space to the right relative to a legit card. Your card looks good...
Nice card.
Z
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first off, your knowledge of DS is very impressive. have been reading up on it the last few days. picked up a couple of DS cards this week myself. i had read in a few places where people say stud finders work on these packs - i tried that with the actual cards and didn't have success. the best method you think would be UV light to determine florescence? appreciate the insight.