Quote:
Originally Posted by meatloaf
Assuming it is a legit auto, what would be the fair market value (at this time)? What would be the max you would pay? Once again, assume a legit auto and that I would eventually send off for authentication and possibly grading. $3k? $5k? $10k? >$10k? Meatloaf
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Meatloaf -
You are asking the wrong question. Classic case of "Flipper's Dilemma". You see something that you don't have any expertise on, but you see a chance to make some money.
The question you need to ask is, "How much do you want to risk given the possible payoff?"
If the ball is passed by a TPA such as PSA or JSA it will cost you $250 or so. PSA will also grade the signature, and given the fading, doubtful it will grade really high. Let's say you got the ball for $2750 including buyer's premium plus the authentication fee, so now you are out $3000. Most auctions are "where is, as-is" so no recourse if the TPA says no good, and you don't get your money back for that either.
Without doing a lot of research, I see a ball recently sold on eBay that looks of similar quality for around $6000.
Do you are basically looking at a less than even money proposition after fees. Think of it like a horse race bet. You are betting $3000 to win. If the ball doesn't pass TPA then you basically have lost that money, unless of course you are willing to try and pass the ball off to someone else...maybe the auction house you bought it from would sell it again.
Personally I think it's a bad bet but if I were an expert on Ruth autographs (I'm not) and I felt good about this one that kind of tips things in my favor. You are doing right by asking for opinions here but unless you are willing to absorb a loss don't make the bet based on that. Back to the racetrack analogy, it would be the same as asking people who they like without doing your own handicapping.