Why aren’t slabs more resistant to scratching/cracking/breaking?

[GRock]

PSA and SGC use Crystal Polystyrene, it's inexpensive and not very durable.
Beckett uses (or at least used to)Poly Carbonate, more expensive but its super durable in comparison.

[steve B]

Originally Posted by GRock

PSA and SGC use Crystal Polystyrene, it's inexpensive and not very durable.
Beckett uses (or at least used to)Poly Carbonate, more expensive but its super durable in comparison.

I would love to know how you found that out?
I've made some brief attempts at it, but figured it would be closely held as a trade secret so I didn't put much effort into it.

[bnorth]

Kinda off topic but how close are we to being able to easily 3D print our own PSA slabs at home? I know nothing about 3D printing so curious.

[Snowman]

Originally Posted by bnorth

Kinda off topic but how close are we to being able to easily 3D print our own PSA slabs at home? I know nothing about 3D printing so curious.

Assuming you'd want to be able to see through it, that's not happening

[bnorth]

Originally Posted by Snowman

Assuming you'd want to be able to see through it, that's not happening

LOL, they can 3D print camera lenses.

[GasHouseGang]

Originally Posted by bnorth

LOL, they can 3D print camera lenses.

I thought you were kidding, but apparently not: https://formlabs.com/blog/creating-c...eolithography/

[steve B]

Beat me to it.

It's not simple, and 3d printing at the hobby/homeowner level isn't fast, but it does do some amazing things.

[NonSportDaniel]

Originally Posted by steve B

I would love to know how you found that out?
I've made some brief attempts at it, but figured it would be closely held as a trade secret so I didn't put much effort into it.

About two minutes with an FTIR and you would know. Easy peasy.

[steve B]

Originally Posted by NonSportDaniel

About two minutes with an FTIR and you would know. Easy peasy.

That's true.

So you have access to an FTIR machine? Lots of questions out there that could be answered.
The stamp guys are using xrf and sometimes one other, But the sample area isn't usually big enough to get info without having to wreck an already damaged stamp as a reference (Like to have the data for the paper so it can be backed out of the overall stamp leaving the spectrum for the ink.)

[Bliggity]

1. Crack card out of slab.
2. Throw away slab.
3. No more scratches on slab.
4. Enjoy card.

That's my method, though I acknowledge it's not for everyone.

Otherwise, I agree Meguiars is good on slabs, I also use that for refinishing guitars.

[NonSportDaniel]

Originally Posted by steve B

That's true.

So you have access to an FTIR machine? Lots of questions out there that could be answered.
The stamp guys are using xrf and sometimes one other, But the sample area isn't usually big enough to get info without having to wreck an already damaged stamp as a reference (Like to have the data for the paper so it can be backed out of the overall stamp leaving the spectrum for the ink.)

I think that what I might try for the stamp concern is a scanning electron microscope with an EDAX attached. Unless the stamp was oversized you shouldn't have to damage it. Reference would be important for that application as I don't think I could put the composition together from an elemental scan as I don't know enough about the stamp paper composition/ glue backing/ ink top coats in that industry. You might need a combination of tools. The Smith's Detection ATR FTIRs are great, but you would probably crush a portion of the stamp.

[steve B]

Originally Posted by NonSportDaniel

I think that what I might try for the stamp concern is a scanning electron microscope with an EDAX attached. Unless the stamp was oversized you shouldn't have to damage it. Reference would be important for that application as I don't think I could put the composition together from an elemental scan as I don't know enough about the stamp paper composition/ glue backing/ ink top coats in that industry. You might need a combination of tools. The Smith's Detection ATR FTIRs are great, but you would probably crush a portion of the stamp.

The work that's being done is impressive so far.

Like
"the plates wore out too fast because the pigment was rust"
Xref says..... no iron present. And by the way brown, red brown and dark brown are chemically identical.....


I wouldn't mind seeing that sort of thing applied to maybe brown/black Lenox, or Blue Old mill.

I can make some guesses about the paper composition, but things were weird back around 1910. Lots of technology changes both in papers and inks.

[jjbond]

I don't care that they scratch or break.
I just want them to be made with a UV blocker....