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View Poll Results: Where do you think the value of a T206 Wet Sheet Tranfer should be"? | |||
Less than an example without "quality control issues." | 19 | 14.39% | |
The same as cards without the extra "markings." | 16 | 12.12% | |
A slight premium should apply; however, not raise the value dramatically. | 37 | 28.03% | |
A moderate premium should apply. They are relatively scarce and should be valued accordingly. | 19 | 14.39% | |
A significant premium should apply, given the supply of and demand for them. | 2 | 1.52% | |
I simply do not care. | 39 | 29.55% | |
Voters: 132. You may not vote on this poll |
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#1
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15 pocket page
I was looking at Steve's SC image in the 15 pocket page, and wondering if that was an old 15 pocket page. I recall buying these sleeves and seeing them promoted as "acid free, no PVC" and thought if those sleeves were old, maybe that transfer was from the acid or PVC in the plastic?
The Chase dark cap Sov.460 I have has an EPDG image on the front (I've posted it before), for some reason I can't post the photo anymore. It's hard for me to imagine it's from being stacked, because there's no bleeding of the ink on the surface, and no type of WST or colors on the back. Sincerely, Clayton |
#2
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I did try to create a WST using a beat common.
Water, wrapped in paper and clamped in a vise for about a week, maybe a bit more. Nothing at all except pressing the woodgrain pattern into the card. When I have time I'm going to try alcohol and/or mineral spirits. One of those will probably get it done, the plasticizer in the old sheets is oil based, as are most lithography inks which is part of what causes the ink migration. I can see front and back inks helping each other to transfer. And since we're on the topic, here's something I've been needing to scan for everyone. The ink used is similar, but likely linseed oil based. The exact formulations were closely held trade secrets at the time. 6 cent post office card proof on the left, 6 cent Justice dept card proof on the right seen from the back(Justice dept are purple and have lincoln on the 6cent) Both bought from a seller in the UK and mailed in the same package, same tiny envelope inside. Neither had any offset before shipping. The seller had very nice scans of both fron and back. The last printing of card proofs was around 1900. So approximately 100+ years after printing the ink was still "wet" enough to transfer. Steve B |
#3
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Neat Steve.
A while ago I took a high res scan for board member, it does appear to be under the Piedmont ad and "printed" more so then a transfer from another sheet.
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T206 gallery |
#4
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Thats a nice clear scan. Seeing that tells me the fronts are printed first and the backs last. Thats an impression cylinder transfer and not a wet sheet transfer. The only thing I have not been able to understand yet is why it's always the same color pass that shows up. Maybe the guy that printed that color didn't pay much attention to his printing press or maybe only a couple sheets got past inspection and all others were caught and destroyed. Has anyone seen any odd T206's with front colors on the backs? I think the next step would be to make a list of all impression sheet transfers with their backs also listed. Most likely many are from the same sheet. I know theres blank backs and Piedmont 350 backs. Are there any others? Doing this could help us learn what cards are on the same sheets and when adding the findings of this to other research, we may be one step closer to learning a sheet layout. One thing I should mention, during the printing, if a full sheet was not fed, then the next full sheet would have the transfer. If a sheet fed late into the press, then the next sheet would only have the transfer on the top section of the sheet. Most likely the sheet that fed late would have been pulled and destroyed but the next one printed with the half transfer would of slipped by. One last thing that I question is why on many impression cylinder transfers do the names, border, and part of the design transfer but on others, its just the design that transfers. Are they actually two different color passes? Maybe its a Brown and/or Black color pass. This would also have to be documented if a list was put together. Maybe someone needs to start a new thread and quote my thoughts and questions. I would love to do it but i'm busy with the T205 website and regular life stuff.
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Ron - Uncle Nacki T206 Master Monster Front/Back Set Collector - www.youtube.com/unclenacki T206 Basic "The Monster" Set 514/524 T206 Advanced "Master Monster" Front/Back Set ????/5258 COMPLETE T206 BACK SUBSETS Old Mill Southern Leagues - Black Ink 48/48 Sweet Caporal 350-460 Factory 30 Full Color "No Prints" 28/28 NEAR COMPLETE T206 BACK SUBSETS Polar Bear 245/250 Sovereign 460 50/52 Sweet Caporal 150 Factory 649 Overprint 31/34 Piedmont 350 "Elite 11" 9/11 |
#5
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Ron - The impression cylinder transfer of Chance above is the black color pass which includes the outside border. The one's I posted in the other thread are the brown color pass and include the team captions. So that's at least two different colors for the fronts and Sean's Sovereign Tinker is a good example of an impression cylinder transfer of a back. Maybe some others will surface.
Last edited by Abravefan11; 03-06-2013 at 03:32 PM. |
#6
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Quote:
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Ron - Uncle Nacki T206 Master Monster Front/Back Set Collector - www.youtube.com/unclenacki T206 Basic "The Monster" Set 514/524 T206 Advanced "Master Monster" Front/Back Set ????/5258 COMPLETE T206 BACK SUBSETS Old Mill Southern Leagues - Black Ink 48/48 Sweet Caporal 350-460 Factory 30 Full Color "No Prints" 28/28 NEAR COMPLETE T206 BACK SUBSETS Polar Bear 245/250 Sovereign 460 50/52 Sweet Caporal 150 Factory 649 Overprint 31/34 Piedmont 350 "Elite 11" 9/11 |
#7
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didn't fellow board member Kevin Saucier do some experimentations with this stuff? I haven't seen him post much lately, so I'm not sure if he's still around or if I've just missed his posts. I remember him being very knowledgeable in the land of alterations and always seemed happy to help other members detect that sort of thing.
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#8
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Quote:
Thanks for posting that. In a similar fashion, the ink used to print US Currency never completely dries. I took this $10 bill and piece of copy paper. After simply rubbing the bottom left corner of the sawbuck (front and back) across the page, it left clearly visible ink marks yet did not smudge the bill. The black mark is from the front...the green mark is from the back. I realize the note is from 1934; however, believe it is old enough to warrant inclusion here...as a quick side note regarding inks from the early 20th Century. Please know that I have almost no knowledge about printing. Spending a decade working in retail taught me a few tricks about spotting counterfeit money. Best Regards, Eric
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Eric Perry Currently collecting: T206 (132/524) 1956 Topps Baseball (190/342) "You can observe a lot by just watching." - Yogi Berra Last edited by Eric72; 03-06-2013 at 06:30 PM. |
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