Is it worth the trouble to build vintage sets?

[Exhibitman]

I don’t want all that volume. I didn’t care about Sixto Lezcano when his card came out of (every) pack I busted as a kid and I don’t want to collect his cards now just to check off a checklist. I prefer to collect just the cards and players that meant something to me and use the money I’d spend on commons for something else.

[brob28]

Originally Posted by Exhibitman

I don’t want all that volume. I didn’t care about Sixto Lezcano when his card came out of (every) pack I busted as a kid and I don’t want to collect his cards now just to check off a checklist. I prefer to collect just the cards and players that meant something to me and use the money I’d spend on commons for something else.

Funny you mention Sixto, Adam. When I was a kid I thought he was cool just for his name alone. Unfortunately, his batting average was cool as well...

[ALR-bishop]

There is at least one guy, besides Sixto, who likes Sixto. When I built the Topps 1985 Mini set in both regular and blank back, someone contacted me and said he was a collector of all Sixto cards and offered me a lot of money for the blank back. But since it was part of a fairly tough set I kept it.

Also, what does the little green arrow on this thread mean ?

[geosluggo]

I've really enjoyed reading this thread if for no other reason than to confirm there are other collectors out there who share some of my thoughts and preferences. I'm a set-builder who likes decent-condition raw cards with no regard for their investment value. I started collecting as a second-grader in 1972; beginning in 1974, the first year all the cards were issued in one series, I realized that spending all my allowance and lawn-mowing money on wax packs made putting together the complete set possible. Since then I've been obsessed with having the entire set of whatever year I'm collecting.

My only exception is a separate collection of Clemente, Aaron, Mays and Frank Howard cards. I started acquiring duplicates of all their Topps cards (so as not to break up my existing sets), then trying to obtain every Topps insert (1968 game card, 1964 stand-ups, 1963 peel-offs, etc.) and every non-Topps card of them (interesting that Aaron didn't appear in '63 Fleer or the early-'70s Kelloggs cards). My set-completing tendencies have taken over -- it genuinely bugs me that I haven't yet acquired the 1969 Transograms of Aaron and Mays or the 1962 Canadian version of Clemente's Post cereal card. I'll probably never get any pre-1954 Mays cards or Aaron's rookie, but it's important to have goals.

[frankbmd]

Why does Topps put numbers on their cards? They want you to get them all by buying more packs. Why does Topps have SPs? They want you to buy more packs to get them all. Why does Topps no longer sell gum? Gum stains damage cards and no one putting a set together wants to chew the gum from all the packs they were “forced” to buy.

Factory sets you say. Yup, one and done, but booooooooooring. Keep the shrink wrap intact and never look at the cards to prepare for the 2083 REA Auction.
Problem solved.

To fool around a couple of years ago I put a 1950 Bowman FB set together. I purchased lots and individual cards with only 1 rule. What was the rule? When completed the set was not have cost me more than $8/card. This created an interesting challenge, because I also wanted the set to be as nice as possible, but then again I couldn’t blow my wad on a high grade Graham, Tittle or Baugh.

The chase and the end result were both interesting. I was able to feed the kitty, so to speak, by selling dupes from lots for a modest profit. To stay within my proscribed budget though I did end up with lower condition cards of Graham and Tittle. However my Baugh is respectable. About 40 of the cards are graded and overall the set is EX-EXMT. Less than 10% of the cards are outliers on the low end. I spent less than $1300 on the set and think it would sell as a set for more now.

A more recent project was my mutilated 1955 Topps Baseball Set including both RCs of Clemente and Koufax. Here no effort was made on card condition. It’s raunchy but complete and represents my only true “OBC-like” experience.

So many options on putting sets together other than PSA Registry Sets (UGH!)

[clydepepper]

Originally Posted by frankbmd

Why does Topps put numbers on their cards? They want you to get them all by buying more packs. Why does Topps have SPs? They want you to buy more packs to get them all. Why does Topps no longer sell gum? Gum stains damage cards and no one putting a set together wants to chew the gum from all the packs they were “forced” to buy.

Factory sets you say. Yup, one and done, but booooooooooring. Keep the shrink wrap intact and never look at the cards to prepare for the 2083 REA Auction.
Problem solved.

To fool around a couple of years ago I put a 1950 Bowman FB set together. I purchased lots and individual cards with only 1 rule. What was the rule? When completed the set was not have cost me more than $8/card. This created an interesting challenge, because I also wanted the set to be as nice as possible, but then again I couldn’t blow my wad on a high grade Graham, Tittle or Baugh.

The chase and the end result were both interesting. I was able to feed the kitty, so to speak, by selling dupes from lots for a modest profit. To stay within my proscribed budget though I did end up with lower condition cards of Graham and Tittle. However my Baugh is respectable. About 40 of the cards are graded and overall the set is EX-EXMT. Less than 10% of the cards are outliers on the low end. I spent less than $1300 on the set and think it would sell as a set for more now.

A more recent project was my mutilated 1955 Topps Baseball Set including both RCs of Clemente and Koufax. Here no effort was made on card condition. It’s raunchy but complete and represents my only true “OBC-like” experience.

So many options on putting sets together other than PSA Registry Sets (UGH!)

I love the CHASE more than the results.

My current project is completing my 1953 Topps set. I have graded Mantle and Mays cards, but the rest are raw and I go after EX-MT or better.

I am down to 20 cards, but there is no rush...stringing that wonderful chase out as long as possible.


I buy emotionally and, for the most part, 'DON'T NEED NO STINKING BUDGET!'.

I collect for the enjoyment and don't worry too much about loosing money...let the nephews worry about that after I'm gone..



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[ALR-bishop]

Frank-- the kind of prattle in your post above belongs on the main board in the What you don't know thread

[avalanche2006]

Am I the only one who views vintage set building as an enjoyable investment opportunity? I recently talked to a dealer that said he sold a high grade 1959 topps set for $20,000. I spend a lot of time on my hobby. I have that luxury since my kids are grown and I don't have a wife.
I do hope that when the time is right, I can pass on my collection to other
collectors.

[CobbSpikedMe]

Originally Posted by frankbmd

A more recent project was my mutilated 1955 Topps Baseball Set including both RCs of Clemente and Koufax. Here no effort was made on card condition. It’s raunchy but complete and represents my only true “OBC-like” experience.

I love collecting my sets OBC Style. I'd rather have a hole in my card than a hole in my collection. I could care less about condition as long as I can recognize the card it's good enough for me. I've never collected my sets for profit or investment. They are all built for fun and comradery with my friends. Simple really.

AndyH

[wdwfan]

Some people love that stuff in their sets, I know. But when I get cards, if any have creases/bends/indentations, are badly off centered, have paper loss, pin holes, etc., they go into the trash.

I collect Ex or better with 85/15 or better centering and no creases/bends/indentations. I can stand a rough edge (no rounded), but not any paper loss.

Makes building sets a bit tougher. But it's tough anyway because people price their stuff at like half of BV for singles. That's why I try to buy lots here and there and then trade extras for stuff I need. By doing that, I put together a 1958 Topps set in Ex or better condition for under $500. I'm currently $50 into my '62 Topps set, and I have nearly 200 different.

But to be honest, I have trouble trading around here. I guess because I'm new and I've only been here about 2-3 years. Not really sure why it's so tough to trade around here.

Originally Posted by CobbSpikedMe

I love collecting my sets OBC Style. I'd rather have a hole in my card than a hole in my collection. I could care less about condition as long as I can recognize the card it's good enough for me. I've never collected my sets for profit or investment. They are all built for fun and comradery with my friends. Simple really.

AndyH

[KCRfan1]

I am working on my 1973 set, with 130 cards to go.

I'll never do another set. It's takes time and patience, and I am spending too much money on it.

The only reason I am building the set is fond memories as a kid and the first cards I remember actively collecting. That said, I will be glad I did it though.

[Volod]

Originally Posted by ALR-bishop

...Also, what does the little green arrow on this thread mean ?

I wondered that too - I don't think it means the OP is Oliver Queen.

[JollyElm]

You can add that decorative arrow with a click when you create a new thread. To paraphrase Shakespeare, it is a tale full of sound and fury, signifying nothing.

[avalanche2006]

What are you guys even talking about?
The green arrow means " Hey look over here!"
So, this thread has definitely drifted away.
Thanks for all of the focused input.

[Peter_Spaeth]

Originally Posted by Exhibitman

I don’t want all that volume. I didn’t care about Sixto Lezcano when his card came out of (every) pack I busted as a kid and I don’t want to collect his cards now just to check off a checklist. I prefer to collect just the cards and players that meant something to me and use the money I’d spend on commons for something else.

Agree 1000 percent. I had an epiphany when I completed my first and only set, 65 Topps, in PSA 8. I spent something like $100 or maybe it was more for the final low pop common (in those days they were really low) and immediately realized how absurd it was. You can keep your Chico Ruizes and Kargers and every common in between. HOFers only for me.