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Go Back   Net54baseball.com Forums > Net54baseball Postwar Sportscard Forums > Postwar Baseball Cards Forum (Pre-1980)

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  #1  
Old 04-09-2014, 04:25 PM
kailes2872's Avatar
kailes2872 kailes2872 is offline
Kev1n @1les
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Default Question on Pete Rose Rookie

I bought a '63 set last year with a raw rose that was advertised as Ex-Mint. Much to my chagrin, when I sent it in to be slabbed, it came back as a 4. I have made a point to have all of my super stars and rookies to be at least PSA 6. With this being such an iconic card, I want a 6 as well.

When I go to the Pittsburgh show, I will be looking to trade the 4 with cash for a 6. Can any of the pros let me know what a reasonable trade would be? i.e. - card for card + $300? card for card + 250?, 400?. I know what the SMRs are but I understand that there is some additional white meat that I will be paying if I am dealing with a dealer. I just want to know what would be fair and reasonable for both sides so I don't feel like I am being taken for a ride, but I am not being unreasonable on my side as well.

Thanks,
Kevin

P.S. if it is an inappropriate question/request that would be better answered with PM, please forgive my lack of decorum and let me know via the most appropriate means.

Last edited by kailes2872; 04-09-2014 at 06:13 PM.
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  #2  
Old 04-09-2014, 07:56 PM
mattsedate mattsedate is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kailes2872 View Post
I bought a '63 set last year with a raw rose that was advertised as Ex-Mint. Much to my chagrin, when I sent it in to be slabbed, it came back as a 4. I have made a point to have all of my super stars and rookies to be at least PSA 6. With this being such an iconic card, I want a 6 as well.

When I go to the Pittsburgh show, I will be looking to trade the 4 with cash for a 6. Can any of the pros let me know what a reasonable trade would be? i.e. - card for card + $300? card for card + 250?, 400?. I know what the SMRs are but I understand that there is some additional white meat that I will be paying if I am dealing with a dealer. I just want to know what would be fair and reasonable for both sides so I don't feel like I am being taken for a ride, but I am not being unreasonable on my side as well.

Thanks,
Kevin

P.S. if it is an inappropriate question/request that would be better answered with PM, please forgive my lack of decorum and let me know via the most appropriate means.
A dealer might act like a 4 is worthless and try to really screw you over in the deal. If it were me, I would be patient and try to find a collector willing to trade for it. You most likely will get a terrible offer from a dealer.
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  #3  
Old 04-09-2014, 08:46 PM
ALR-bishop ALR-bishop is offline
Al Richter
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Default Rose

Kevin

As a comparison only, Levi/707 has a 6 for sale on his web site for $825 and a 4 for $525
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  #4  
Old 04-09-2014, 09:13 PM
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VCP average for a PSA 4 - $409.58
VCP average for a PSA 6 - $668.97
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  #5  
Old 04-09-2014, 10:46 PM
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much in line with Bob's post...

PSA 6s range from $700 - $750 depending on centering

PSA 4s range from $430 - $480 depending on centering
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  #6  
Old 04-09-2014, 11:33 PM
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MattyC MattyC is offline
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Hi Kevin,

The main thing, as CW mentioned in his post, is that there is a bandwidth of quality within each grade. Not all cards within the same grade have the same eye appeal, and an abundance of the latter can warrant a significant premium above the average-looking specimen.

The SMR is woefully behind the current market (understandably so, considering its publication schedule vs. a real-time site like VCP).

So the most accurate answer to your question on strategy would be to really compare the 6 in question to other 6s, and decide where it falls in the spectrum of quality/price. If it is better than the other 6s which have sold on VCP (as per the VCP scans), then a fair price would be somewhere north of average. Of course each collector has his own threshold for premium he'll pay for a "best-in-grade" type card; hence why, in an auction setting, an exceptionally strong-for-the-grade card can sell for a huge spike above the average. A private sale setting, even with a dealer as opposed to a collector, if often the optimum way to land such a card.

Similarly, and especially if negotiating with a dealer, be sure to ascertain where your 4 falls within the spectrum of 4s. This is just as critical as understanding if the dealer's 6 is a strong or weak 6. If your four blows away other 4s on VCP, you should not fail to raise this point with the dealer and value it north of the average in any trade + cash scenario.

Hope that helps.

Best,

Matt
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Last edited by MattyC; 04-09-2014 at 11:35 PM.
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  #7  
Old 04-10-2014, 11:45 AM
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kailes2872 kailes2872 is offline
Kev1n @1les
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I really appreciate the feedback. It is in the range that I thought it might be, so it tells me that I am not crazy.

I took a picture of the card to get feedback on where it would be in the 4 spectrum. Unfortunately, it keeps telling me that it is failing to upload.

One final question - is a card plus cash trade standard practice on a deal lke this? Or would it be considered odd if I asked or suggested it?

Thanks again, you have been a great help.

Kevin
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  #8  
Old 04-13-2014, 06:26 PM
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glynparson glynparson is offline
Glyn Parson
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Default It is standard

Not every dealer is out to "screw" people over that post above is asinine. I usually have way more problems selling cards to collectors than to dealers. You should be able to find someone to make a trade maybe not at Robert Morris but surely at the national if you plan on going.
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  #9  
Old 04-13-2014, 08:31 PM
Zach Wheat Zach Wheat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kailes2872 View Post
I really appreciate the feedback. It is in the range that I thought it might be, so it tells me that I am not crazy.

I took a picture of the card to get feedback on where it would be in the 4 spectrum. Unfortunately, it keeps telling me that it is failing to upload.

One final question - is a card plus cash trade standard practice on a deal lke this? Or would it be considered odd if I asked or suggested it?

Thanks again, you have been a great help.

Kevin
Kevin,

It is failing to upload because your picture is too big. Try shrinking the picture ie reducing the pic in the 250k range and it should work.

I don't recall what e max picture size you can upload...but that is your issue here.

Regards,

Z wheat
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  #10  
Old 04-13-2014, 09:29 PM
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kailes2872 kailes2872 is offline
Kev1n @1les
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I think I have it. The bottom is cut off and the card is in a slab sleeve so there could be perceived imperfections that are a result if that. I struggle to understand top to bottom centering since there is no white border at the top. The left right seems reasonable, albeit admittedly, not perfect.

Thanks!

P.S. I plan on attending at least one day of the national and maybe 2 if I can't make it all the way around the tables. I will be at Robert Morris as well. Hope to see some PA folks on the board at that show.
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  #11  
Old 04-14-2014, 06:44 AM
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vintagebaseballcardguy vintagebaseballcardguy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kailes2872 View Post
I really appreciate the feedback. It is in the range that I thought it might be, so it tells me that I am not crazy.

I took a picture of the card to get feedback on where it would be in the 4 spectrum. Unfortunately, it keeps telling me that it is failing to upload.

One final question - is a card plus cash trade standard practice on a deal lke this? Or would it be considered odd if I asked or suggested it?

Thanks again, you have been a great help.

Kevin
Kevin,

Your idea of a card plus cash trade is not odd. I recently did something similar. I actually traded down a couple of grades with a '53 Topps Mays that better matched my set and pocketed a few hundred dollars to work on another project.
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