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  #1  
Old 03-24-2014, 02:03 PM
DICKTOWLE DICKTOWLE is offline
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Default Gone with the stain. Dick Towle

I would like to thank 15 new customers from Chat 54 that have sent cards to our business to work on. And now there is repeat business from all. Thank you all for the support. Chat 54 is the best.
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  #2  
Old 03-24-2014, 02:06 PM
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What is chat 54?
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  #3  
Old 03-24-2014, 02:10 PM
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laughs....I like it!
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  #4  
Old 03-24-2014, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I Only Smoke 4 the Cards View Post
What is chat 54?
Chat 54 is the hippest club in town!

54.jpg
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  #5  
Old 03-24-2014, 02:22 PM
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For some reason whenever I see the name "Dick Towle" I can't help but think of Towelie from South Park...
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  #6  
Old 03-24-2014, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
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For some reason whenever I see the name "Dick Towle" I can't help but think of Towelie from South Park...

I think of something a fluffed uses.
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  #7  
Old 03-24-2014, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CW View Post
For some reason whenever I see the name "Dick Towle" I can't help but think of Towelie from South Park...
Dick are you still taking wrinkles out of cards? Removing signatures from baseballs to give the impression they were single signed?

http://www.net54baseball.com/showthread.php?t=115131

http://www.net54baseball.com/showthread.php?t=115203 post 67
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  #8  
Old 03-24-2014, 03:20 PM
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Shouldn't this post be somewhere else? Everyone can make their own evaluation of this type of business, but I am not a big fan of using chemicals to treat cards.

Jay Miller
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  #9  
Old 03-24-2014, 03:22 PM
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To my knowledge it's only cards.....I'm sure Dick can expand on it. I'm not one of the 'NEW' customers but I did get him to get stains off the back of an N36 Allen & Ginter Indian card and the results were a little scary.....scary good, that is. I didn't do the black light trick nor do I intend to sell but the stains are no longer there. I'm in no way affiliated with the subject, just thought I'd weigh in...........I wish I'd scanned the card before I sent it.

And I agree about Jay about the placement....maybe it'll get moved to the B/S/T.............

Last edited by autograf; 03-24-2014 at 03:23 PM.
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  #10  
Old 03-31-2014, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I Only Smoke 4 the Cards View Post
What is chat 54?
He meant the Area51 chat board.

Seriously I have worked with Dick for years and HIGHLY recommend him and his son!

Thanks guys

Dan
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  #11  
Old 02-18-2017, 02:43 PM
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Bump
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  #12  
Old 03-24-2014, 04:17 PM
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Default Gone with the stain

I would like to make it clear that I don't remove autographs on baseballs, however I now remove wrinkles on cards and faces, if I can help someone, and you know who you are, please contact us
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  #13  
Old 03-24-2014, 04:21 PM
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Maybe this section should be renamed Net54baseball Vintage (Pre-WWII) Baseball Cards, New Member Introductions, & Card Alterer Advertisements.

Last edited by 4815162342; 03-24-2014 at 04:21 PM.
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  #14  
Old 03-24-2014, 04:25 PM
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Default Alex

it's fluffer
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  #15  
Old 03-24-2014, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
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I would like to make it clear that I don't remove autographs on baseballs, however I now remove wrinkles on cards and faces, if I can help someone, and you know who you are, please contact us
Shameless.
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  #16  
Old 03-25-2014, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by DICKTOWLE View Post
I would like to make it clear that I don't remove autographs on baseballs, however I now remove wrinkles on cards and faces, if I can help someone, and you know who you are, please contact us

Just reading through this now....

Like Leon - I am on the fence.... but....

my juvenile-humor mind can't get past the revelation...


Dick Towle doesn't work on balls.

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Last edited by bijoem; 03-25-2014 at 03:53 PM.
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  #17  
Old 03-25-2014, 11:18 PM
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For reasons I do not understand card collectors have not accepted preservation like other hobbies. I don't completely understand why, but it is a rule of the hobby and I follow it.
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T206 = 213/524
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  #18  
Old 03-26-2014, 02:22 AM
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Default If I were to give

a testimonial for someone feel free to use my full name. What are you trying to hide, if your testimonial was true at the time you gave it? Also resteration and preservation are not necessarily the same thing. I am for preservation against most restoration.

Last edited by glynparson; 03-26-2014 at 06:49 AM.
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  #19  
Old 03-26-2014, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I Only Smoke 4 the Cards View Post
For reasons I do not understand card collectors have not accepted preservation like other hobbies. I don't completely understand why, but it is a rule of the hobby and I follow it.
Coins are in the same boat as cards. If it's been determined that a coin has been cleaned, even ever so slightly, it's not eligible for a numeric grade. It gets the equivalent of an AUTH. Certain hobbies simply do not accept cleaning or altering of any kind. And yes, sometimes the coin graders miss it, and sometimes there is a difference of opinion- one grader says cleaned, the other says original.
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  #20  
Old 03-26-2014, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
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Coins are in the same boat as cards. If it's been determined that a coin has been cleaned, even ever so slightly, it's not eligible for a numeric grade. It gets the equivalent of an AUTH. Certain hobbies simply do not accept cleaning or altering of any kind. And yes, sometimes the coin graders miss it, and sometimes there is a difference of opinion- one grader says cleaned, the other says original.
You are allowed to clean dirt & grime off of coins and still have them graded...
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  #21  
Old 03-26-2014, 08:31 AM
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You are allowed to clean dirt & grime off of coins and still have them graded...
Dirt and grime yes. But I collect copper coins and they typically tarnish and corrode. If the graders feel the coin was improperly cleaned or recolored, it's dead in the water. It might get a slab but it won't get a grade.
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  #22  
Old 03-26-2014, 08:48 AM
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Default Dick Towle "Gonewiththestain"

Now that the world has replied again and understand, I respect all answers, I would like to say a few things. All I here is the word "cleaning" on this site with the use of chemicals. The solvent I developed are used on three issues.

1. Remove tape and glue and paper on the back of cards.
2. Remove deep wax imbedded on the back or cards.
3. in most cases remove paper and contact cement on the back of cards.


If that is cleaning then yes, for those who don't believe in this then so be it, but I would rather enjoy a card with tape , glue, and contact cement removed. Thank you all again and be well.
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  #23  
Old 03-26-2014, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DICKTOWLE View Post
Now that the world has replied again and understand, I respect all answers, I would like to say a few things. All I here is the word "cleaning" on this site with the use of chemicals. The solvent I developed are used on three issues.

1. Remove tape and glue and paper on the back of cards.
2. Remove deep wax imbedded on the back or cards.
3. in most cases remove paper and contact cement on the back of cards.


If that is cleaning then yes, for those who don't believe in this then so be it, but I would rather enjoy a card with tape , glue, and contact cement removed. Thank you all again and be well.
Thanks for responding, Dick. Do you have any data on the chemical(s) you use deteriorating the paper over time (if it does)?

I have more of a concern about wrinkles being taken out than dirt/grime/glue taken off. Can you say for sure that those wrinkles won't come back over time? Honestly, I am not in favor of wrinkle removal....
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  #24  
Old 03-26-2014, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
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Can you say for sure that those wrinkles won't come back over time? Honestly, I am not in favor of wrinkle removal....
From what i understand, he doesn't remove wrinkles.

1. Remove tape and glue and paper on the back of cards.
2. Remove deep wax imbedded on the back or cards.
3. in most cases remove paper and contact cement on the back of cards.
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  #25  
Old 03-26-2014, 09:28 AM
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From what i understand, he doesn't remove wrinkles.

1. Remove tape and glue and paper on the back of cards.
2. Remove deep wax imbedded on the back or cards.
3. in most cases remove paper and contact cement on the back of cards.
see post #13
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
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see post #13
Yup, I see it now.
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  #27  
Old 03-26-2014, 12:41 PM
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Default Dick towle

Leon, I developed this solvent 19 years, after 2 years of testing on the cards, all is well. These are oil base solvents, with the proper mixture there is never an issue with the cards. I can put these cards in the solvent for a week, take it out , you would never know. Understand the solvent attacks what is on the card, not the paper. The paper will always be fine and is never an issue with anybody.

As a oil base, the solvents sits on top of the card, once exposed to air, it is gone and that allows me to attack the issue. I even was contacted by a restoration house asking how we did this because they had cards sent to them, I ended up receiving the job.

I enjoy helping people, hearing there stories how they got the cards, few people really enjoy there work, our family does. So I thank you again for the input. There are a lot of happy people around with crap removed from front and back of cards. After all, life should be a smile and not a frown, Thank you and God Bless.
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  #28  
Old 03-26-2014, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DICKTOWLE View Post
Now that the world has replied again and understand, I respect all answers, I would like to say a few things. All I here is the word "cleaning" on this site with the use of chemicals. The solvent I developed are used on three issues.

1. Remove tape and glue and paper on the back of cards.
2. Remove deep wax imbedded on the back or cards.
3. in most cases remove paper and contact cement on the back of cards.


If that is cleaning then yes, for those who don't believe in this then so be it, but I would rather enjoy a card with tape , glue, and contact cement removed. Thank you all again and be well.
The examples given here by your customers included stain removal. Stain removal is cleaning, by anyone's definition.

As far as 'chemical' vs 'solvent', a solvent is simply something that something else can dissolve in. For removing water-based glue, that would be water. For anything else, that would generally be something that most people consider to be a 'chemical'.

No tap-dancing, please.

Edited to add: I just got off the fence.

Last edited by Runscott; 03-26-2014 at 10:31 AM.
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:37 AM
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It was beginning to sway anyway with you and Leon on it............
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:38 AM
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It was beginning to sway anyway with you and Leon on it............
Hey, I'm not sure how to take that...as long as it wasn't a sexual innuendo.
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  #31  
Old 03-26-2014, 07:46 PM
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Default Gone with the stain. Dick Towle

Soaking a card from a notebook, to me is the same as removing a card from a GIA slab. I'm simply freeing it from a holder. One requires a hammer the other water. I'm not in any way trying to improve the card other then removing it from the page/remove the page from it. Is that hypocritical?

My issue is using a man made, specially designed chemical to remove stains, residue and make whites pop. Pressing corners/wrinkles & trimming arealso meant to deceive that a card has survived in a much nicer condition then it truly has.

Edited. I've tried it once, just to see what happens.

Vid http://youtu.be/y1QFe7T8zK8
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:06 PM
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NM

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  #33  
Old 03-26-2014, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atx840 View Post
Soaking a card from a notebook, to me is the same as removing a card from a GIA slab. I'm simply freeing it from a holder. One requires a hammer the other water. I'm not in any way trying to improve the card other then removing it from the page/remove the page from it. Is that hypocritical?

My issue is using a man made, specially designed chemical to remove stains, residue and make whites pop. Pressing corners/wrinkles & trimming arealso meant to deceive that a card has survived in a much nicer condition then it truly has.

Edited. I've tried it once, just to see what happens.

Vid http://youtu.be/y1QFe7T8zK8

Nice video....I have done that many times. One of the times I remember distinctly was from an original find that I called the Trucker Boy Find. Long story but it was a west coast collection...this card had paper similar to that card in the youtube video, over about 20% of the upper back.

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Old 03-26-2014, 08:18 PM
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I guess I just don't see the act as different.

Some kid puts a card in a notebook with water based glue 100 years ago to display it, and somewhat to protect it.

I have SGC glue two pieces of plastic around my cards for the same reasons.

Removing them, to me is not trying to deceive anyone.
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:22 PM
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I have said for a while that I believe a lot of high grade cards were soaked from albums. Who cares? In a perfect world this stuff should be disclosed, but it rarely is. To me, right or wrong, it is just a part of the hobby.
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HOFs = 13/76
SLers = 33/48
Horizontals = 6/6

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  #36  
Old 03-26-2014, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I Only Smoke 4 the Cards View Post
I have said for a while that I believe a lot of high grade cards were soaked from albums. Who cares? In a perfect world this stuff should be disclosed, but it rarely is. To me, right or wrong, it is just a part of the hobby.
Alex, I've noticed a couple of forum members stating this. I'm sure this is part of it, but I really think that most of the high-grade slabbed cards were simply larger cards that were trimmed. Soaking card from albums, from my experience, doesn't generally create a 'perfect' card. Most album cards do not have sharp corners, and when soaked, usually still have imperfections that occurred as a result of being glued to an album page.
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:36 PM
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Alex, I've noticed a couple of forum members stating this. I'm sure this is part of it, but I really think that most of the high-grade slabbed cards were simply larger cards that were trimmed. Soaking card from albums, from my experience, doesn't generally create a 'perfect' card. Most album cards do not have sharp corners, and when soaked, usually still have imperfections that occurred as a result of being glued to an album page.

That is entirely possible. However, I recently purchased an N28 that was removed from an album and the corners were pretty nice.
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T206 = 213/524
HOFs = 13/76
SLers = 33/48
Horizontals = 6/6

ALWAYS looking for T206 with back damage.
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:39 PM
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Perhaps Dick and "gone with the stain" work under a shell company...

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  #39  
Old 03-27-2014, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by I Only Smoke 4 the Cards View Post
I have said for a while that I believe a lot of high grade cards were soaked from albums. Who cares? In a perfect world this stuff should be disclosed, but it rarely is. To me, right or wrong, it is just a part of the hobby.
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  #40  
Old 03-27-2014, 08:43 AM
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Hope this helps with the intense water-chemical convo.

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/i...1200345AAlFaC0
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T206 = 213/524
HOFs = 13/76
SLers = 33/48
Horizontals = 6/6

ALWAYS looking for T206 with back damage.
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  #41  
Old 03-27-2014, 10:12 AM
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Come on guys this conversation is getting nasty. You are both very smart and hardworking. Move on.
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T206 = 213/524
HOFs = 13/76
SLers = 33/48
Horizontals = 6/6

ALWAYS looking for T206 with back damage.
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  #42  
Old 03-27-2014, 12:37 PM
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Smokelessjoe - I have soaked several cards. They proudly reside in my collection. I don't intend to sell them and I talk about the process with people.
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T206 = 213/524
HOFs = 13/76
SLers = 33/48
Horizontals = 6/6

ALWAYS looking for T206 with back damage.
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  #43  
Old 03-27-2014, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
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Smokelessjoe - I have soaked several cards. They proudly reside in my collection. I don't intend to sell them and I talk about the process with people.
If you do not mind me asking, why do you soak them?

I am happy, not mad - I do not want you to think I am attacking you or something. Sometimes these post get taken the wrong way

Last edited by smokelessjoe; 03-27-2014 at 12:41 PM.
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Old 03-27-2014, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
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If you do not mind me asking, why do you soak them?



I am happy, not mad - I do not want you to think I am attacking you or something. Sometimes these post get taken the wrong way

I collect on a budget. Buying cards with paper on the back or front allows me to purchase cards I otherwise couldn't afford. Also, I think it's fun to see the before and after difference.
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T206 = 213/524
HOFs = 13/76
SLers = 33/48
Horizontals = 6/6

ALWAYS looking for T206 with back damage.
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  #45  
Old 03-27-2014, 05:51 PM
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Runscott Runscott is offline
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Max, it would be the kiss of re-sell death. Not the case for a soaked one. Fair or not to Dick and ilk, that fact is what it is all about for most in our hobby.

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  #46  
Old 03-27-2014, 07:39 PM
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WhenItWasAHobby WhenItWasAHobby is offline
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  #47  
Old 03-27-2014, 08:03 PM
wonkaticket wonkaticket is offline
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Classic Saul!!!! Love it.
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  #48  
Old 03-27-2014, 08:14 PM
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Nobody else really seems to mind, but if I knew a card had been soaked in water, it would diminish its value to me.
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  #49  
Old 03-27-2014, 09:38 PM
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Yeah, but we don't have Saul - who we gonna get?

Last edited by Runscott; 11-30-2014 at 01:16 PM.
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  #50  
Old 03-27-2014, 10:06 PM
steve B steve B is offline
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I was curious, so I looked for more about the Plank.

And I believe It's an example that can be used to clarify how I view things.

I'm in favor of light surface cleaning to remove buildups of "stuff" on the surface. Some stains can be removed or reduced the same way, usually only reduced.
I'm also in favor of professional deacidification for items that need it.

The key being professional.

The conservation work I had some links to shows what's proper. Cleaning, preserving, making it stable in a reversible way that won't cause further damage years after the work was done. And documenting the work done.

All that implies limits to what should be done.

I believe the surface cleaning I did on my card was limited and proper. The card is better off long term. (And I must admit being surprised at the grade -I was expecting maybe a 35-40 or an A, and hoping for a 50) I didn't document the process other than before and after scans, but I'm very open about what was done and how.

Now that I know the Plank actually is that whitened and has actually lost the degree of color shown in the scans rather than the scan being brightened here's my take on that card.

It's sloppy poorly done work. Anything that would remove both the stain and that much color would need to be neutralized properly. But someone who can't avoid damaging the color while taking out the stain probably is too sloppy to do that.
Meaning not only is the card overcleaned and improperly whitened, but it's probably in for further damage from whatever was used.
That steps over every boundary for proper conservation, and should NOT be done.

Steve Birmingham
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