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#1
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I generally crack and keep the flips so long as it is low grade and I prefer to keep it raw. For SGC, torquing a screwdriver along the seam will pop them right out.
There are a few cards I keep in. The most compelling is when you get a card that is graded higher than it would be if submitted again. |
#2
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That's what I was thinking too. It made me nervous just looking at it. |
#3
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I always crack a card I picked up for a set build no matter the grade or cost. I want it in it's proper place in the binder. I do have a couple dozen or so cards I've kept in their cases. Those are generally cards that I've spent a lot of time/money on, things that appear to be delicate that I want to protect or odd shaped items that would be hard to put in a binder page. I don't care about the grade or value, I just don't want to damage them in handling. A couple of examples from my Billy Pierce collection:
IMG.jpg IMG (1).jpg IMG_0010.jpg
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People are crazy and times are strange, I used to care but things have changed -Dylan |
#4
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My sets are all in binders and my philosophy is, I generally keep the more expensive cards graded while cracking everything else. Cobbs, Mattys, Cy Youngs, etc., all stay graded not only for potential resale later but for their protection as well.
My sets are mostly lower grade so the lone exception is if I buy a graded card that's like a 4 or higher. In that case, I'll often keep it graded until I find a lesser card and then try to sell or trade the graded card. I've cracked a few hundred cards, mostly Authentic grades, 1s, or 2s. I fully understand that when it comes time to sell, I'm giving up some profit. But with lower grade cards, I think that's mostly negligible and I'd much rather enjoy the cards in my binders the way they are. To me, the tradeoff works.
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T201 (50/50) T205 (208/208) T206 (520/520) T207 (200/200) E90-1 (118/121) E90-3 (20/20) E91A/B/C (96/99) E93 (17/30) E95/96 (26/55) C59-61 (149/248) N28/N29 A&G (84/100) 1901-02 Ogden Tabs (1,327/1,560) 1933-41 Goudey (265/478) 1939-41 Play Ball (381/473) Complete: E47, E49, E50, E75, E76, E229, K4, N88, N91, R136, T29, T30, T38, T51, T53, T68, T73, T77, T118, T218, T220, T225, W512, W513, W542, W552, W565, Dozens of smaller uncategorized sets Founder: www.prewarcards.com |
#5
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#6
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I thought this was going to be a Dwight gooden/ strawberry thread.
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Just a collector that likes to talk and read about the Hobby. 🤓👍🏼 |
#7
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Guys, you can open an SGC case by just working a butter knife along the seam. Doesn't usually take longer than 20 seconds. Be safe!
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ThatT206Life.com |
#8
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Crack!
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Got a good laugh from this one.
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EBAY STORE: ROOKIE-PARADE |
#9
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I say don’t crack. It helps me feel safer when I’m looking at my cards after a couple glasses of scotch or wine. Haha.
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#10
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Suppose you decide to sell these cards down the road. Do you also include the flip to show the buyer that it once was graded?
I would think that once the flip is removed, there is no proof that it belongs to the card. Therefore making the flip useless in future sales. But, if you never have plans on parting with your cards, then it really doesn't matter. |
#11
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I crack all my cards out. I have a pile of flips somewhere but I've never done anything with them. I just enjoy my collection a lot better without the big piece of plastic and the grader's opinion.
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R Dixon |
#12
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I don't use it, but doesn't the premium version of VCP include images with the pricing? If so, I guess you could prove it that way - showing an image of that card residing in that holder.
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#13
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#14
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Termites
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Half of his cards (along with a large portion of his comic book collection) had been shredded, including the ‘62 Maris I wanted so desperately. Termites had all but destroyed the only thing of value he owned. I promptly went home and convinced my mom to buy me a small safe. But i’m pretty certain (safe or no safe) his cards and comics would be around today if they’d been encased in plastic. |
#15
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They are your cards
Honestly do what makes you happiest. One point You can always crack out later you can’t definitely get back in the same grade holder.
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#16
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For pre-war cards, I could really care less about grading, being a low grade collector. But I like the comfort of a slabbed card. Knowing that my purchase is at least authentic.
I do send modern cards in once in a while... I have no idea why. Lol.
__________________
George Gibson book; Available at: https://mcfarlandbooks.com/product/george-mooney-gibson My Wantlist: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...x3OXKfQMfE/pub |
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