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  #21  
Old 03-18-2018, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toledo_mudhen View Post
I typically just clip the corners off diagonally (wire cutter pliers - my dad use to call them dikes) and then slide a knife blade in the slit and work it from there on both top corners.

Haven't tried the new PSA Flip but all others seem to work fine... takes just a minute or two
My method too but I usually clip only one corner and then pry a flathead screwdriver between the seams. It's easy. BVG holders are very difficult but can be done as it takes more time but is basically the same process, from what I remember. There was quite a bit more tugging and force needed to be used but even BVG holders can be cracked. I haven't cracked any of the newer PSA or SGC holders.

As for crossing cards over I am not sure I have never played that game, at least not to get a higher grade. I have asked SGC for reviews several times and prefer them for my graded cards. I have some PSA slabbed cards and maybe a few BVG's too. And don't forget raw cards. They are great too!!

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  #22  
Old 03-19-2018, 06:28 AM
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I feel I generally have cards cross that I think should cross. I have very high success rates. You need to make sure they fit psa criteria and not just think it's going to cross because sgc said it was an 88 or 92. They all do have slightly different standards and some are tougher on some things than others. Personally sounds like a waste of time though as it will just be even longer until you get your better cards back.
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  #23  
Old 03-19-2018, 06:33 AM
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Default Cracking out

As for cracking out I use clippers on old psa or sgc cards. On the new psa I use needle nose pliers to separate the top piece from the bottom and pull them apart.
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  #24  
Old 03-19-2018, 08:45 AM
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When I first got back into collecting about 13 years ago, I was a big Roger Maris fan so everything that I bought had to be him.
I bought his rookie card which was graded by PSA. Not knowing anything about graded cards back then, I decided that I wanted to remove the plastic slab. I tried prying it open on the sides and it was very easy to get my screwdriver in there. In fact, it was so easy that it slid across the whole card and ended up cutting it across the width of the card.
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  #25  
Old 03-19-2018, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by ZiggerZagger View Post
Great thread -- I was just gonna ask a similar question to the board. I prefer to have PSA for my postwar slabs, and have a couple that I'd like to cross from SGC to PSA specifically. Would only try with cards that seem worthy.

My question is, can anyone estimate their success rate in crossover from SGC to PSA with reasonably worthy cards? 50% was said above, for example.

I don't have the guts to crack out cards with value above a few hundred dollars for fear they'll never get back into comparable holders. Below are two examples I'm entertaining for crossover.

The more real-world experience and comments from the board, the better. Thanks much in advance.


Attachment 309027 Attachment 309028
Don't Crack the Jack. Top border looks too mis cut or trimmed in the photo
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  #26  
Old 03-19-2018, 09:03 PM
t206kid t206kid is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquarian Sports Cards View Post
Maybe I should post a youtube video of how to safely kill any slab.
In a pinch at the Philly show a couple weeks ago, Scott successfully cracked a BVG holder of mine in about a minute with just a pocket knife. It was quite impressive.
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  #27  
Old 03-19-2018, 09:06 PM
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That's how I always do it. I couldn't remember whose card it was that I cracked lol.
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  #28  
Old 04-16-2018, 07:38 PM
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Pretty new to the whole grading world. Had a few questions. What is the advantage of getting a card graded by 2 services? Is it just considered more iron clad if 2 places both agree on a grade? Also what does a crossover graded card look like? Does PSA add a label onto a SGC slab?


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  #29  
Old 04-16-2018, 07:59 PM
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No, you've got it wrong. People who collect the PSA set registry want their cards graded by PSA and are usually willing to have a slightly lower grade in a PSA slab. So by crossing over the card, if it meets the min grade requested, PSA will take it out of the BGS or SGC slab and put it in their own with the new PSA grade. Makes their collection more uniform if they are working on building a set with one company. Sometimes you can make a profit crossing, some time you'll take a loss.
Getting a card graded over a 5 from any grading service should ensure the card is crease-free, so knowing that will help you get a similar grade from PSA. Each third party grading company has slightly different things that will set them off: PSA rarely grades cards nowadays that is factory cut short. BGS will usually grade sheet cut cards (modern laser cuts of old complete sheets). SGC will hammer cards with writing on them, while PSA will give them a MK qualifier.
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