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  #11  
Old 11-06-2018, 08:29 AM
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SAllen2556 SAllen2556 is offline
Scott
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I would just add that if you have access to local card shows that can make a big difference in how you go about putting together a set. Buying one card at a time on eBay is tough. For the '68 Topps set, I can't imagine buying that way. But card shows specifically cater to set collectors, and there's no shipping!

You might also check out COMC for purchasing multiple cards. I've used it for commons and minor stars and have had pretty good luck.
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  #12  
Old 11-06-2018, 08:32 AM
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kailes2872 kailes2872 is offline
Kev1n @1les
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The most fun that I have had building sets have been '56 and '67 which were pretty much done card by card. I remember specific cards in that set so much better than the others and have both of them exactly as I want them. However, similar to you, they are the most expensive ones. The best value were the ones that I found that only needed a card or two upgraded - but after the first couple of weeks, they go into the safe and I haven't looked at them.

A guy on this board that was in the same post war set quest as me had a method and I thought that it was really smart. He would buy multiple versions of the same set, cherry pick the best set and then sell off the others as complete. It is capital intensive, but it allowed him to upgrade to the best possible version for himself and then sell of the others as complete and get the majority of his investment back. I did a version of that with my 50 Bowman set and it allowed for a pretty nice version - however, I have not taken the plunge on buying multiples of early 50's sets as I didn't want to lay out that much cash and then hope that it sells - as I tend to be the guy that gets $.30 cents on the dollar for my stuff.

Similar to a lot of people, I look for large lots for the commons - as I hate spending $10-$20 per card on a common that will be absorbed into the set cost at about $3-$4 a card. I then go card by card on the stars to get the exact one that I want. As a result, all of my HOFers for '54, '55, and '56 Topps are at least PSA 6 and gives nice uniformity.

Best of luck to you.
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1952 Bowman (prefer a graded Mantle)

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  #13  
Old 11-06-2018, 09:26 AM
ALR-bishop ALR-bishop is offline
Al Richter
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I started collecting in 1957. Eventually I built Topps sets from 1951 to 1971 card by card, after 1972 I bought sets. For me, it was more enjoyable by card but less expensive by set.
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  #14  
Old 11-06-2018, 09:41 AM
Laxcat Laxcat is offline
M.att C H A R L T O N
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It will always be cheaper to buy the set. Personally I find the joy in putting the set together. I might not feel that way if I didn’t have access to so many commons. But to each their own.
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  #15  
Old 11-06-2018, 09:41 AM
Marchillo Marchillo is offline
Stephen Marchillo
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If you want a break with the high cost of high numbers I would go with the 64 set. Going from 66 to 67 is going to be a similar experience if you are building the set from the ground up.
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  #16  
Old 11-06-2018, 09:52 AM
Marchillo Marchillo is offline
Stephen Marchillo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAllen2556 View Post
I would just add that if you have access to local card shows that can make a big difference in how you go about putting together a set. Buying one card at a time on eBay is tough. For the '68 Topps set, I can't imagine buying that way. But card shows specifically cater to set collectors, and there's no shipping!

You might also check out COMC for purchasing multiple cards. I've used it for commons and minor stars and have had pretty good luck.
Greg Morris Cards on eBay is a good source once you make some progress. When I built my 63 set I used him to buy dozens of cards at a time. He does tons of 60's set breaks in all sorts of conditions. He charges a rate of $3 for as many cards up to the maximum amount eBay allows on an invoice. He also lets you keep cards in the cart for a week or so. Which usually covers 2-3 set breaks for each year in the 60's. Good luck!
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  #17  
Old 11-06-2018, 10:09 AM
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sfh24 sfh24 is offline
Shon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marchillo View Post
If you want a break with the high cost of high numbers I would go with the 64 set. Going from 66 to 67 is going to be a similar experience if you are building the set from the ground up.
Agreed. After dealing with the 1966 set, the High# Seaver, Carew and Brooks in 1967 have me leaning towards 1964.
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  #18  
Old 11-06-2018, 10:12 AM
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sfh24 sfh24 is offline
Shon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marchillo View Post
Greg Morris Cards on eBay is a good source once you make some progress. When I built my 63 set I used him to buy dozens of cards at a time. He does tons of 60's set breaks in all sorts of conditions. He charges a rate of $3 for as many cards up to the maximum amount eBay allows on an invoice. He also lets you keep cards in the cart for a week or so. Which usually covers 2-3 set breaks for each year in the 60's. Good luck!
Greg Morris Cards has been a resource for me. I have had 1-2 orders/week for the last year from Greg Morris. Sometimes the auctions are very competitive and drive the price up. However, the condition scale has been accurate and trustworthy.
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  #19  
Old 11-06-2018, 12:16 PM
rsdill2 rsdill2 is offline
Robert D!ll!ngham
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This topic tends to come up every so often. I always like to link a post from several years ago. There wasn't much math involved, just adding up numbers...and it's 4 year old data at this point so it might have changed slightly but it's still interesting. Just adding up the individual high column beckett price guide values and then looking at the complete set book value:

http://www.net54baseball.com/showthread.php?t=183323
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  #20  
Old 11-06-2018, 12:16 PM
savedfrommyspokes savedfrommyspokes is offline
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For me, the most effective raw set building method is to buy multiple lots/starter sets for the set that I am working on and piece together the set from the multiple lots, obviously keeping the best condition copy. From there, I sell off the duplicates, sometimes as singles, sometimes as smaller lots....in most cases using this method, I can recoup most of my original cost and end up with a near complete set on my hands. Going this route, my largest expenditure is the time I invest on the sorting, reselling, etc, but the in the end, the final price/cost meets my needs/budget. This process has worked well on my 53-75 Topps raw sets, 61-63 Post sets, Fleer sets, 50-55 Bowman sets, 40-41 PB sets, that are now either complete or just a card or two short of completion. Currently working on the 33 Goudey set using this process. Next up is the 49 Bowman set.

I have completed, or nearly completed (90%+), 5 PSA sets (52, 62, 71, 72, 75) with multiple others 50%+ complete. The method for building these sets is somewhat different from what I have done with the raw sets mentioned above, as I have done a lot more card to card collecting while building these sets.
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