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  #1  
Old 10-07-2004, 12:39 PM
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Default What's that smell?

Posted By: Gary B.

Ok, I've noticed people on many various different threads bring up the smell of vintage cards, and I too have notieced virtually every pre-war card I have has some kind of odor to it, some more severe than others.

What causes this? Mold? I've noticed a similar phenomena with books of a certain age as well.

Is it a requirement that these older cards have a smell for them to be legit?

Do very high grade cards from this era NOT have a smell?

Can a smell be faked?

Phew! Been meaning to ask about this for a long time. Am keen to hear how people respond.

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Old 10-07-2004, 12:45 PM
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Default What's that smell?

Posted By: qualitycards

"Can a smell be faked?"
Gary, I'm sure you can create a smell on cards & collectibles.
I had some older books in basement storage and they had a funky mildew kind of smell to them. So I'd imagine if you would put a new reprint card in one of those books and let it ferment back in the basement for a few more days, it too will pick up on the odor.

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Old 10-07-2004, 12:45 PM
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Default What's that smell?

Posted By: Todd

I didn't do it

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Old 10-07-2004, 12:55 PM
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Default What's that smell?

Posted By: Greg Ecklund

Out of all the cards I have, Turkey Reds have the most distinct smell. Although most of mine are in the VG/EX to EX range, I do have a few that are borderline NM and they all have the same smell so I don't think the grade has anything to do with it.

Not sure if a smell can be faked - I have seen a few bad reprints that didn't have the smell, but haven't gotten a chance to get a whiff of the high quality ones that Mike Wheat has.

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Old 10-07-2004, 12:58 PM
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Default What's that smell?

Posted By: Gary B.

if anyone has any scientific data about what causes a mold or mildew smell in old cardboard over a period of many years. What about tobacco cards - do any of them retain the smell of tobacco over time, or does that dissipate?

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Old 10-07-2004, 01:03 PM
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Default What's that smell?

Posted By: Elliot

I'm waiting for our resident expert on smelling cards to weigh in on this matter. Leon???

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Old 10-07-2004, 01:32 PM
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Default What's that smell?

Posted By: T206Collector

If the following process, used for books, damages your priceless tobacco cards, don't come calling on me --- you act at your own peril:

1. Deodorizing a Musty Book - Tip 1
Sometimes you will buy an older book, and find it has a musty odor. I have seen a number of recommendations about putting the book in a bag with cat litter, activated charcoal or baking soda. This can work with books made of a fairly coarse paper, but not coated paper. Place the book into a paper bag with a container of baking soda (which seems to work best) and close the bag; leave it alone for about 2 weeks. According to one source, this works "about half the time." Libraries sometimes place such books into a fume hood with a container holding Lysol-soaked cotton balls. After leaving the fume hood on 24 hours a day for a week, they report the odor is "greatly diminished."

2. Deodorizing a Musty Book - Tip 2
One-Drop Deodorant for Smelly Books Look for a small bottle of liquid deodorant (maybe 6 inches high, including a drop dispensing lid) at the drugstore or grocery store. The pet food and car product aisles are good prospects. If the instructions say to place one drop of the deodorant on/in a glass container, you´ve found the correct product. (There are many brand names; most of the liquids I´ve seen are green.) It is most effective to build a small chamber for the books by putting a cardboard box into a plastic trash bag. Then stand the books open, put one drop of the deodorant onto a glass dish in the corner of the box, and tie up the plastic bag. Check the books daily, at which time another drop of deodorant can be added. Mild smells are gone in a couple of days, and nasty problems can take a week to cure. I´ve described this product to dozens of callers over the last 10 years, and no-one has called back for further help.

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Old 10-07-2004, 01:35 PM
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Default What's that smell?

Posted By: T206Collector

Although paper is usually the major component of books, many other materials may be present; ink, sizes glues, textiles, cardboard, wood, leather (imitation or genuine), metal and bone are some materials found in books. We should keep these other materials in mind when considering how to care for books. For example, metals can corrode, staining paper, leather and textile components.

Generally, it is best to avoid environmental extremes when storing or displaying books. Think of books like people - we prefer temperatures that are neither hot or cold, humidity somewhere between wet and dry and fresh pollution free air. Most of us would not enjoy carrying around a layer of dust on us either. High temperature, light, humidity and air pollution levels speed up the deterioration of acidic papers found in most books produced from the latter part of the 19th century up to the present day.

High temperature can lead to the drying out and embrittlement of paper and leather. Moderate to cool temperatures are best for storage purposes. High humidity leads to mould growth which leads to the `musty' odour you are experiencing. Dampness is also partly responsible for `foxing' of paper - small brown spots on pages. As well as the disagreeable smell, mould deteriorates paper. Mould requires moisture to live and grow - remove the dampness and the mould will stop. Take your `musty' books outside on a dry warm day (a gentle breeze is helpful). Brush dust off the books with a soft brush or if using a vacuum cleaner, cover the end with some fibreglass screening or nylon netting material to prevent anything from being sucked into the vacuum. Brush dust toward the vacuum nozzle being careful not to get too close to the book or damage may occur. After dusting, place the books up on their ends and open them up fanning the pages to allow good air circulation. Although strong light is harmful to books, short exposure to daylight/ sunlight when cleaning and airing out is not a problem. The benefit to `musty' books is greater than the potential harm from light exposure. Remember, though, that light has a strong deteriorating effect on paper and other organic materials that can be present. Avoid light sources high in U/V (sunlight, fluorescent lamps) and exposure to high light levels (think of books as people, remember? - but please no sunscreen).

After dusting and airing out (drying) your books, select a new place to store them, otherwise the mustiness will return. Attics are a poor choice for storage because they are too hot and dry; basements, too damp. Main floor is probably the best place. If dampness is still a problem, install a dehumidifier. Although drier conditions will halt mould growth, some of the odour may remain.

Examine books occasionally for insect activity. Usually insects are attracted to damp conditions - another reason to avoid basement storage. If insects are dining on your books, remove them outside, inspect them carefully, brush away any insect matter (a good vacuuming will help) and store them in a different area away from other books - inspect regularly for any further activity, clean and spray the area they came from with a proprietary insecticide. If further activity occurs, contact a conservator to discuss freeze fumigation procedures.

If old books are to be stored away for a length of time, it is helpful to wrap them individually in unbuffered acid free tissue (available at an archival supplier, e.g. Carr-McLean and Woolfitts, Toronto). As well as being an air pollutant absorber, the tissue can absorb excess moisture and act as a dust barrier. If archival grade boxes are not available, line cardboard or wood boxes with 4 mil polyethylene sheeting but don't attempt to seal the boxes - it is better to allow some air flow so moisture or inside pollutants are not trapped in the containers. Storing books in a cabinet with doors is beneficial because it provides an extra barrier to light, dust and air pollutants.

Unfortunately a great deal of damage to books is caused by poor handling practices. When removing old books from the shelf, do not pull against the headcap as this will result in a damaged spine. Instead, grasp the book around the centre of the spine and at the same time, with your other hand, gently push aside books on each side to allow the book you have selected to be pulled out easily. Avoid packing books together too tightly.

Photocopying old books can lead to cracked spines as weakened binding and pages are forced apart to accommodate the copy machine. Is the copy worth the damage to the original?

If the cover is separated from the book block, tie the two together with cotton twill tape (or strips of old cotton sheeting) and place the book in a protective acid-free slipcase made from acid free mount board or card stock. Even two cover sized pieces of acid-free mount board tied with cotton tape will support and protect damaged or separated covers until repairs can be made. Do not use ordinary adhesive tapes to repair books. They will cause more problems than they solve.

Leather book bindings can suffer from abrasion, light and humidity related damage. Often the leather dries out and can become powdery. `Red Rot' is an extreme form of leather deterioration that is aggravated by the presence of sulphuric acid in the air or environment. Affected leather is reddish in colour and powdery. Little can be done to restore leather with `red rot'.

Leather dressings are sometimes advocated to renew dried out leather. The purpose of leather dressings is to replace natural lubricants lost through aging. They should never be used on powdery, `red rot' affected leather, suede or vellum and parchment bindings. Recent research has shown that leather dressings may actually cause more harm than good through dehydration and the oxidation of oils and fats in the dressings. This can lead to stiffening of the leather in the long term. Even the use of saddle soap is being discouraged due to its alkalinity which can deteriorate leather. It seems the greatest benefit for books comes from proper handling storage and environmental control. Although books, like people, will deteriorate with time, we can take precautions to maintain good health so we can enjoy their company for as long as possible.

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Old 10-07-2004, 03:03 PM
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Default What's that smell?

Posted By: leon

Yes, I believe I was one of the first board members to admit to "smelling" my cards. It might have even been as far back as the old FullCount board. I have since deviated to only smelling girl swimmer cards......otherwise, everything has already pretty much been said in this thread about it. (They do have different smells though)......regards all

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Old 10-07-2004, 03:54 PM
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Default What's that smell?

Posted By: Brian Weisner


Hi Leon,
How about Girls Volleyball cards??? May and Walsh???? Beach volleyball??????????? Be well Brian



Hope all is well in the igloo

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Old 10-07-2004, 04:24 PM
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Default What's that smell?

Posted By: Julie

till we got a new roof put on it. My books got ruined, about half of them, but my cards never acquired even a slight musty oder. They smell like--Old Cardboard, that's what!

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