T206 - Sun damage?

[bigwinnerx]

Scan isn't the best, but, it is representative of the color scheme. (Also not my scan, ripped from the Ebay listing)

Bought this Oldring to replace a SGC40 I sold a few weeks ago. I've gone through pages and pages of the same card and it usually has a very distinct green background.



Do we think this is sun damage? Seems very faded. Also doesn't seem like a printing error as there is some green in there which would imply (as my kindergartener could tell you) that the yellow and blue ink passes went fine.

FWIW, the back printing is bold and sharp. Holder is also fine (though the gold sticker SGC variety which I believe is older)

Any immediate thoughts? Don't hold back. Thanks guys.

[ZachS]

Originally Posted by bigwinnerx

Also doesn't seem like a printing error as there is some green in there which would imply (as my kindergartener could tell you) that the yellow and blue ink passes went fine.

I'm pretty sure that I there were separate applications for yellow, blue, and green ink... the green wasn't printed by combining yellow and blue.

It almost looks like it's missing the yellow.

[ZachS]

From T206Resource...

The front images of T206's were printed using a six color lithograph process. Each individual color run overlapped previous ones in varying amounts to produce different colors and shades. The following is a breakdown of the color runs and the order they are thought to have been applied.

Stage 1 – YELLOW
The first color run in the printing process was yellow. It provided the foundation upon which other colors were added and/or combined to create the completed image.

Stage 2 – BLACK
The second color run was black. This provided the entire border, as well as any black coloring on the picture. Several cards have been seen that contain only the yellow and black color runs. These examples are missing the name and team designation captions, which were printed during the brown color run.

Stage 3 – BROWN
The third color run was brown. This run was responsible for not only the brown in the image portion but also for the name and team caption. Printing errors missing the name and team captions are missing this run. Also, any brown that was double printed would result in the name and team caption also being duplicated. Many cards have been seen with only the yellow, black and brown colors applied. These cards are found predominately with Sweet Caporal 350-460 Factory 30 backs.

Stage 4 – BLUE
The fourth color run was blue. The blue printed on top of white would just be a light shade of blue, but when printed on top of the yellow would result in a light green. This blue and yellow color overlay was used to create the lighter shade of grass, lighter green backgrounds and warmed the color of gray uniforms.

Stage 5 – GREEN
The next color run was green. The dark green color was a separate stage and was not a result of overlapping blue with yellow. The darker green run when applied on top of the light blue stage would result in a darker blue.

Stage 6 – RED
The final color run was red. Many of the identified printing errors are of Boston players missing this final stage, indicated by the missing red “B” from the cap and/or uniform. Examples have also been seen of Cincinnati subjects missing the red coloring from the team name on the jersey.

It's got blue... it's got dark green... but no light green/yellow.

[bigwinnerx]

Ah ok, thanks, wasn't sure on the printing process then I guess. Blame me for not looking.

I'll look into what you're saying. Thanks for the help as always!

[steve B]

There were more than six colors. I'm always surprised that nobody has changed that in the online descriptions.

Depending on the card some colors were done by mixing, some printed directly. For instance, the greenish background on Steinfeldt is light blue over yellow. Others like the other Oldring -have the green as yellow, light blue and light green.

Blue is typically both light blue and dark blue.
Red is usually printed over pink.
There's also gray on several if not all.
And usually a tan/peach color combined with pink to make the flesh tones.

If the back is nice, I'd think it was a missing color or one color printed very lightly. There's also a group I'm trying to figure out that has very off colors, usually making the player look very pale.

I'll have to dig out my Oldring with that pose and see what layers it has.

Steve B

[bigwinnerx]

Thanks, Steve. While I have an ear of the experts, I'll dig out my good scanner and post something at higher quality and maybe that'll solve it.

Certainly appreciate the information.

[bigwinnerx]

Big picture at the link. Looking at it, I don't see yellow. Which may fit what you're saying. It also might mean sun damage is selective. I have no idea.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3868/...46f65538_o.jpg

[GoldenAge50s]

I don't see sun damage at all. The face color would be faded as would the black & browns--they are not.

[steve B]

Missing yellow at least, Maybe another color too.

I really have to get mine out. I compared the scans, and I think yours might be different in a few ways. Either dark blue is missing as well, or the light blue layer is different. And the black layer may be different as well.

I have a couple cards that I'm nearly certain are sun damaged and the only layer that faded was the bright red. Not that others couldn't have, but that's how it seems (The ones I have could also be missing the red, but there was a lot of light exposure, cards near them didn't fade the same way, and a few other things make me unsure.

Chemical exposure can affect different colors, but usually leaves a lot of clues.

Steve B

[bigwinnerx]

Another dumb question, would chemical exposure affect the back, too? I'd think so.

The back might be the cleanest of any of the 40+ T206s I own. I'd suspect I'd see something there, too, but, it's clean as a whistle.

It really is striking how different this seems to be vs. "regular" versions of the card. The yellow is completely gone from mine it seems.

Example of a normal version:

[steve B]

The answer -And it's not a great answer- is maybe.

It would depend on whether the chemical affected the color on the back. So if there was something that would just remove yellow, it wouldn't bother any of the T206 backs. Something that took out blue would affect only a couple backs.

Another thread has an example of a chemically damaged PB where the blue has been removed from part of the back leaving just the black from the dark blue.

I do think your card is missing yellow and isn't damaged by light or chemicals.

Steve B

[bigwinnerx]

I have no idea what I'll do with this information except that it's a good story to tell my kids. So I thank you for your continued feedback.