Hi All - Newbie - Got Some questions

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Posted By: Ted

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Posted By: Ted

anyone????

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Posted By: leon

You asked a lot of questions that are learned from day to day experience and reading the board. Just hang out a while, do some searches (from the top of the front page) on topics you have questions on, and you will have the answers in no time. best regads

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Posted By: AP

Granted - I'm not a veteran by any means...but the following comes from about three years of experience...take it for what it's worth:

On the values of slabbed and unslabbed - From what I have seen, a slabbed card compared to an unslabbed example of the same card in similar condition will grab higher prices. On the contrary, a card that looks great but has the one minor flaw that will knock it down one or two grades could lose you your money. For example, you buy an unslabbed card at a "five" price, get it graded and have it come back a "three". Now you have a card that lost the value you put into it. With all that said, 'A card is worth what someone will pay for it."

No idea on your museum question...

On buying Ungraded - I try to bear in mind that the card is ungraded when forming a price in my mind only because of those cards that look like a 5 or 6 that turn out to be a 4 or even 3. Internet is great for making deals but lousy for getting a close-up view of a card and can hide those very small flaws that graders see.

On graders - I think that SGC does the best. But the other board members may have a more informative opinion. I have seen way too many "mistakes" by PSA that are unacceptable - more so than SGC. Furthermore, i find SGC more knowledgable and hospitable.

On grading - I think that graders for the most part grade all cards with the same eye. However, there are some cards that are more susceptible to certain flaws - the T205's chip easily, the strip cards are handcut, the E105's are extremely thin...and there are cards that are not susceptible to many flaws at all - the M116's are printed on strong paper...


On trimming - Obviously length is the big one. Also if you view a certain set enough, you can tell by the "look of the card" for the most part. Some guys on the board can just look at a border and say, "that's trimmed" and be on the money. With that said, ancient techniques of cutting the cards at the factory sometimes yielded miscuts - so that ain't rocket science. A trimmed card's paper fibers will look much different on the "trimmed" side than on the "untrimmed" sides.

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Posted By: Julie

Who's your favorite Black Sox (Buck Weaver) Got any Conlon photos (maybe). Wanna drool over my 1919 WS ticket stub from the 5th game?? If so: http://www.julievognar.com/home. Click on "20th century."

I don't get my cards graded. This results in a variety of reactions when I sell them: 1) "I'll pay you---for the raw card, and ---more if it grades." 2) "I'll pay you for the graded card, but if it doesn't grade, you give me dough back." 3) Most people eyeball the card and decide that it will grade. Since I haven't tried to sell any mint cards, I haven't had any problems.

I like to keep my cards in Mylar, in black Vario Stockpages, in notebooks. They look just as nice as in the SgC holders with the well-fitting black insides.

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Posted By: Bob Marquette

a) In light of this grading debacle, which has in my opinion done nothing but add more confusion to the quality issue, do you guys feel that getting these cards graded really adds to the "value" of them?

Yes, definitely. Reassures buyers that the cards are not altered (even though they may be). Buyer reassurance means more bucks.

b) Is the value that it does add substantial and inline with the pricing guide found on t206 museum?

Don't know, don't hang out in that museum.

c) As a buyer, how should the price i am willing to pay be affected by the fact that a card is ungraded.

It depends on the card. I know that is a general answer but certain cards are going to bring major interest and major bidding regardless of the fact that they are raw. Caramel (E92,93,94,95,96,97,98,99,100,101,102,103,104,105, 106, 107 all come to mind)cards definitely.

d) And who do you think does the best job with VINTAGE cards? ... not the topps from the 50-60's but the old ones!

SGC holders are the best. They are also probably the toughest graders. GAI may be a little more consistent though.

e) Are condition standards consistent throughout some of the different issues? For example, my pride and joy is my e90-1 joe jackson card. If i had to grade it relative to other t206 cards, i'd say it would probably come in somewhere around a 2 or 3, but maybe even a 1. However, of the other examples i've seen of the card, i consider it to be in relatively good shape. Also, one of my graded w514 cards is considerably nicer than my PSA5 Orth, but it recieved the same grade, granted it is from another company.

Well, yes standards are the same, but some sets have really condition sensitive cards like E98s and you find the highest graded of some of the players in the set are only SGC 50s and 60s.

f) My biggest concern when buying these cards is the trimming issue, i have purchased a magnifying glass to bring with us to help, but at the end of the day, short of bringing them to these experts at the grading companies, or a few of our friends at the National that we attend, how do you really tell if it has been trimmed?

I don't think anyone can be 100% sure, not even the Big 3 grading companies. They only give their gut feelings based on their inspection. I have seen trimmed cards holdered in all 3 company's slabs and what I considered to be unaltered cards rejected by them. I think most collectors of vintage cards who have been at it a while and have seen and handled a lot of cards can make judgments as good (or better) than some of the grading services.

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Posted By: Ted

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