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  #61  
Old 02-03-2018, 09:08 AM
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Exhibitman Exhibitman is offline
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Originally Posted by JLange View Post
I’m a big fan of using cardsaver 1’s in 4-pocket pages as mentioned by another poster, especially when condition is important to you. The cards can be priced or identified with labels on the front or back and you can take and move them around with ease if you don’t like leaving holes in your pages as you build. I’ve also had inclinations to re-organize sets by teams or group subsets like rookie all-stars cards or multiplayer cards together at times so it makes a re-org quite easy as well. One drawback is a full album of 4-pocket pages can hold only about 248-252 cards,so you are looking at multiple albums to complete a typical Topps set.

I do that too but I use Unikeep clamshell binders. They are 1.5” wide and flat ringed and all polyethylene so no metal or rounding. About 120 cards per with double sided mounting . Not ideal for sets but I don’t need set storage. My Exhibit boxing was in 21 albums.
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Last edited by Exhibitman; 02-03-2018 at 09:10 AM.
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  #62  
Old 02-03-2018, 11:43 AM
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Vintagevault13 Vintagevault13 is offline
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Default Is it worth the trouble to build vintage sets?

IMO, there are certain sets that I think justify the extra cost of building one card at a time. These are the sets that are prone to specific issues. A perfect example is the 1975 Topps Baseball Set. I just finished it in EX condition. One of my pet peeves are the “fish eyes” that are quite common on these cards. Personally, I can’t stand them. Many sellers don’t take these into account when determining condition. I probably spent $100 -$150 more than I would have if I bought the complete set or several large lots. I felt it was worth it because probably 50% of the cards would have had the fish eyes and I would have been faced with massive upgrades. I guess it all just depends on personal preference.


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Complete:
1965 Topps Baseball
1972 Topps Baseball
1973 Topps Baseball
1974 Topps Baseball (master set w/all variations)
1975 Topps Baseball

Last edited by Vintagevault13; 02-03-2018 at 11:45 AM.
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  #63  
Old 02-03-2018, 07:52 PM
avalanche2006 avalanche2006 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vintagevault13 View Post
IMO, there are certain sets that I think justify the extra cost of building one card at a time. These are the sets that are prone to specific issues. A perfect example is the 1975 Topps Baseball Set. I just finished it in EX condition. One of my pet peeves are the “fish eyes” that are quite common on these cards. Personally, I can’t stand them. Many sellers don’t take these into account when determining condition. I probably spent $100 -$150 more than I would have if I bought the complete set or several large lots. I felt it was worth it because probably 50% of the cards would have had the fish eyes and I would have been faced with massive upgrades. I guess it all just depends on personal preference.


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That's how I feel about the 3 sets that I am doing.
1958,59, and 60. All known to have centering issues.
All of my sets are perfectly centered with sharp corners.
This took many upgrades to achieve, but it's worth it to look through a set and be satisfied with every card.
That's my goal anyway, being as picky as I am.
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  #64  
Old 02-04-2018, 07:03 PM
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I suppose it matters how much the thrill of the chase appeals to you. In my case, not very much.

My method has been to buy very nice complete sets to begin with, often waiting for quite a while for one to pop up.
Sadly, I have the centering sickness, so I've tended to wait for collector-assembled sets to pop up where it's been clear they've cared about centering and eye-appeal.
From there, I've probably upgraded 10-30% of the cards for perfect centering and condition, depending on the set.
By the time I get to the last few cards, I'm usually getting a bit frustrated, so the thrill of completing things is really more of a relief to me.

It's worked well for me, though, having just completed the last set in my 1953 - 1979 Topps run recently. Took about 6 years or so. Condition is consistent within a given set, and ranges from EXMT to NM/MT depending on year.
I'm sure that buying complete sets to start has cut the final cost of finishing each set dramatically.

I do really enjoy having those sets to leaf through though, and they look amazing when assembled consistently.

I respect and envy folks who are able to just focus on individual examples of cards without feeling the need to be completist about collecting. I would love to get to that state of mind, and feel like I'm getting closer to it as the years go by.
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