T206 Tiered Pricing Spreadsheet Question

[Stetson_1883]

Hi folks. Im slowly collecting the monster and have been buying mainly commons (at the lower end) and HOFers priced at the upper end. Ive been buying like this because Im simply too lazy at this point to also go after those tougher commons. I know I can get PSA 4 commons around $50 and PSA 4 HOFers for around $200 and up. For now its worked but eventually Im going to have to tackle the others.

I realize the SLers are priced at a premium, but does anyone have an easy go-to list which sorta categorizes all the cards according to ballpark price ranges such as like cheap common, tougher common, SLer, tough commons and HOFers.

I ask because it takes time to figure out the pricing difference between low level commons and a lot of these non-HOF/SL cards (such as Hal Chase and the like). Has someone else done the leg work and posted it in a word document

Im collecting stuff graded around a 4. I hope that all made some sense. Thx!

[Jobu]

Have you checked out PSA's SMR? This seems like it is what you are looking for even if SMR isn't perfect.

[Charlie Faust III]

Royce,

Bryan and I seem to be on the same page in regards to pricing.

The PSA SMR Vintage Baseball under the 1909-11 T206 White Border listing gives a nice breakdown. I mainly collect low grade raw and go by the PR1 and GOOD2. Here is a sample of their listing:

Commons $16/$22
Minor Leaguers $13/$26
Southern Leaguers $28/$55
American Beauty $35/$55
Broad Leaf $450/$775
Carolina Brights $450/$700
Cycle $20/$40
Drum $3500/$5000
El Principe de Gales $25/$40
Hindu $70/$120
Lenox $750/$1100
Old Mill $18/35
Piedmont $16/$32
etc.

Well, you get the picture. Since I collect raw in these two grades; I will pay less because the cards are not graded.

Most of the T206 that you initially will buy are both Piedmont and Sweet Caporal 150/350 Factory 25 and 30 but 460's with Factory 42 hold a premium so it gets complicated just to come up with a price. A lot has to do with two parties getting together and coming upon a mutual agreement as to what the card is worth and what the buyer/seller wants for it.

I noticed that if you treat people nicely here; always being respectful in all that you write and say, that they become your friends. Friendships are built and the prices seem to come down just because you are respectful and are considered their good friend; even though you haven't met the person or even know what they look like. I think that aspect of it is so cool!

It's what the pro's are made of; it's in their dna.

[Stetson_1883]

Thanks guys. Folks Ive dealt with here have been nothing but class acts.

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

I have read this thread and many others and have cruised ebay looking at T206s. I am thinking of buying a HOFer, maybe a Lajoie. Which is better: a card graded a 3 or 4 with a more common Piedmont or Sweet Cap back or a rougher card..1 or 2 with a Sovereign or Old Mill back? I know it's a rookie question, but one I have struggled with for a whole and one which has kept from really leaping in to the set.

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[slipk1068]

Depends on the card. Some cards are WAY tough in Sovereign and Old Mill. I prefer eye appeal and would always go for the higher grade common back.

[mechanicalman]

I agree with David. I personally place more value on eye appeal, though I recognize others have different priorities. My gut says, from a resell perspective, most of the "new money" entering the hobby is more focused on higher grade than backs, but it's just intuition. I have no data to support this as I generally do not pay attention to sales of lower grade backs.

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

Originally Posted by mechanicalman

I agree with David. I personally place more value on eye appeal, though I recognize others have different priorities. My gut says, from a resell perspective, most of the "new money" entering the hobby is more focused on higher grade than backs, but it's just intuition. I have no data to support this as I generally do not pay attention to sales of lower grade backs.

Thanks for your answer. I think I know what you mean about the resell angle. I am just a collector who might like to own some of these. Honestly, lower grade cards in rare backs will probably be about as high as I choose to aim with more common backs being a little nicer.

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[vintagebaseballcardguy]

Originally Posted by slipk1068

Depends on the card. Some cards are WAY tough in Sovereign and Old Mill. I prefer eye appeal and would always go for the higher grade common back.

That makes sense. Thank you.

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[Stetson_1883]

Im going for the monster and generally buy 4's, although I do pick up 2's and 3's if they look great and are downgraded for a bit of paper loss.

I'm not really paying attention to backs however I would like to complete the set having at least ONE back variation. So far Brown Hindu and a Carolina Brights is the rarest Ive attained.

Good luck and Cheers!

[Jantz]

Originally Posted by Stetson_1883

Im going for the monster and generally buy 4's, although I do pick up 2's and 3's if they look great and are downgraded for a bit of paper loss.

I'm about the same except not with paper loss. I look for nice cards in PSA slabs that the submitter didn't want a certain qualifier (MK) applied, so I've been able to pick up a few beauties in grades of 2s and 3s that had wet sheet transfers on the back and the overall condition of the T206s were at a 4.

[Pilot172000]

Hey if anybody has some Hindus they want to sell me for around $70 let me know.

[Joshchisox08]

Originally Posted by Jobu

Have you checked out PSA's SMR? This seems like it is what you are looking for even if SMR isn't perfect.

Agreed SMR is kind of correct with common commons but after that fuuuuuugeeeetaboutit.