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Old Timer Vintage Collector needs help/info
Hi Gang:
I am an oldhead and do not collect anything post 1960's. My knowledge stops there! Recently a distant family member dropped of a bunch of 80's/90's cards from Topps, Score, Donruss, and Leaf etc. from a deceased son's collection No rhyme or reason to how the card have been organized. So there will be quite a bit of work going through the thousands of cards. I know there is not much value in these years. However my question is, are there any SPECIFIC cards I should be on the look out for that do hold some value? If so I'd appreciate any heads up any of you can supply. Thanks in advance for any guidance provided |
Yes, there are. We have had threads concerning them before. I'll see if I can dredge some up.
But really, you need a collector my age (~40) that would just go through them all and separate the worthwhile from the worthless. Someone that knows the oddball and misprints and variations, like the 1990 Topps partial blackless cards. If you were near the Florida panhandle, I'd do it for you. Some people now take videos of lots like this and post them on youtube to see if they have anything. You might take that route if you're not close to anyone. |
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John: Thanks for your insight. Hope you can find previous threads. Sorry not near the Florida panhandle or I would drop them off to you. I was asking more about rookie caards and the like. |
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Here's one: https://www.net54baseball.com/showthread.php?t=196092 The Frank Thomas NNOF master thread on PSA's board has the 15 or so 1990 Topps cards listed which might be $1000 each. 1988 Score had some dealer promos that had 0's in the stat lines for like 5 players that can be $50-100 each. |
Searhing 80's etc cards
I am doing that right now. I look for rookie cards of hall of famers or
someone like Pete Rose. You can also look by year and PSA 10 on ebay and see who is selling for what. |
Fellow old timer, you can also go down to your local card shop and buy a Beckett magazine.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk |
Just a couple of things I didn't see in the older thread. Starting in the 90s you start to see way more parallel sets and insert variations. Sometimes it's difficult to tell the difference between the standard Chrome and the Refactors especially the earlier versions for instance (newer versions spell it out or have a true product id number) This could be the difference between a $0.15 card and a $20 card. Other parallel sets can be tricky too.
Today for instance I was going through a ton of 80s and 90s mostly junk.. but I hit a Pacific Paramount Edgar Martinez. I happen to like the 90s Pacific cards so I set it aside... turns out it was a Paramount Blue insert... a variation that, according to Becket, greatly increases the value. A base card in the set is listed (Beckett High) as $0.30 and the Blue variation is $12.00. The only difference being the shiny blue foil. Or take the 2003 Bowman or Upper Deck Collector's Choice... the only real difference between a card worth pennies and a $10 card is the color foil script signature. Then don't even get me started on the some of the glossy sets that are virtually identical to the standard set. The other thing to look out for starting in the 90s are cards with a limited run with the serial number printed on it... like 45/100.. obviously the lower the better... you get some 90s cards with serial numbers in the 10s of thousands (especially the Classic series). There are also a lot of game used relic variations. Those are a little more obvious. And signatures... those are pretty obvious as well. They usually spell it out for you n the back of the card with a statement about it being an authentic auto or a game used memorabilia card. The variations and inserts as you get into the 2000s can be maddening. lol. I was out of the collecting game for about 15 years and these are things that were somewhat new to me and might help you out. :D Good luck! -Ben |
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