Thoughts on graded "authentic" cards...
 

I have been watching a few graded t205 cards at auction that are graded as "authentic" but look very much nicer overall. Just thinking along aesthetic lines, how should I rate them for $ amount? If I am only looking for collecting sake how should I figure them for dropping my hard earned cash? Another question, the grade of "authentic", does that usually denote a card that has been trimmed? Thanks

No it doesn't authentic can mean recolored or touched in anyway.

This card is authentic just because someone tried to repair a crease. Attachment 172661

hand-cut scrap (not distributed) cards get an Authentic grade also.

Id take a beautiful auth over a beat up sgc 1 any day. Thats prob in the minority on this site. I have a handfull if babe ruth auth cards, but on the other hand out of 90 plus t205's i only have 1 auth.

I think alot of factors come into play, overall look of the card, price, and type of card

If i could afford that jackson id have no issue with the auth! Beautiful card

Thank you

Thanks for all of the replies. I think that if I can find a deal on a decent priced authentic card, I will try to pick it up. A collector like me would be able to add a better looking card for maybe a little less money.

Actually, I agree. I know people shy away from cards with beautiful fronts and a little paper loss on the back, or maybe a pin hole and a little pen mark on the back. But I feel they are more pleasing to the eye than a card with a major creasing and rounded corners.
Just my opinion.

I love authentic cards!! You get a nice looking card for less money. What's not to love about that?

http://img2.sellersourcebook.com/use.../@@_img272.jpg

My thoughts as well
 

+1

Posted this one before as one of my favorites. It (and a couple other nice "A"'s ) have given my the thought of doing a set of "auth-only". Great way to get a visually appealing set at a fraction of the cost.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps133d29ac.jpg
--
Mike

I'm of the belief that all graded cards are best listed as "Authentic" or "Altered" and leave the condition up to the buyer. Both require era and maker description because a reprint can be "Authentic" and "Altered" should list the alteration. Otherwise, as long as you pay accordingly, I have no issue with some altered cards if they present well and prefer them to beaters.

*Nice Jackson!

IMHO, here is a good example of where an "A" graded card is much nicer than the same card with a numerical grade. A few years ago, I had both of these vary scarce 1953-54 Briggs Meats Mickey Mantle cards - neither one was graded. I traded the worse condition one that has surface paper loss affecting part of Mantle's printed name - this card was subsequently graded a 10/1 by SGC (I believe it was submitted to SGC by the first auction house that sold it back in 2011). I still have the nicer card, which I submitted to SGC at the 2012 National and received an "A" grade. This is why I'm not a big fan of card grading - and, I wish TPGs offered an alternative service to just tell me if my card is authentic or not and whether or not it has been altered.
Val

Eric
 

Hi Eric, I agree with you. Authentic or altered, with a description of the alteration, should be enough.

Rick

+1


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selfish...I guess
 

I won't know or care when my heirs go to sell this one.
In the meantime I'm just going to enjoy it.

Just an FYI - BVG actually does Authentic and Authentic-Altered differently. Authentic usually refers to a card that a person chooses to be Authenticated only without the numerical grade. However, it can also refer to strip cards or other hand cut cards that are too small to get a grade. But any card that is trimmed, colored, etc. is marked as Authentic-Altered. I have used them several times to slab lower grade cards as Authentic that I didn't want numerical grades on. I also use it on modern non sport autographs where the grade is under a 9 and I just want the card authenticated.