[the 'stache]

I'd like to see the back, too.

Here's one of my flips, from a 1989 Upper Deck Ken Griffey Jr PSA 9. It shows some of the same bleeding. It was printed at about the same time as your card, if you look at the flip numbers.

40676759 Keeler T206
40676975 Griffey Jr 1989 Upper Deck



One of the first things I always check is the barcode. Make sure it matches the card's number.

PSA uses interleaved 2/5 for their barcodes. All you need to do is take a scan of your card, and copy the flip, making an image of just the flip like I did, and save it as a unique image. Then, upload it to a site that will decode the barcode (ie tell you which number it represents).

Here's one I use:

online-barcode-reader

The barcode for my card shows the same number, 40676975. I would bet yours does, too. Now, there are likely people out there making bogus flips that have figured out not to screw that up. I look at that first, and I also look at the typeface being used in the flip. From what I can see of your flip, the typography looks correct, too. Also, check the slab itself. Look along the seams on the sides, and the top. There shouldn't be any areas where it looks like the seams have been split.

Take your card, with one hand hold the top of the slab, with the other, hold the bottom. Very gently, try to articulate the slab along the seam that runs parallel to the card's top. If the slab is stiff, you should be ok. If you're able to start bending the slab back and forth, and you show greater than normal frosting, then you want to have us look at it. We would really want a scan of the card, both sides, in higher resolution (dpi). I think you're ok, because the amount of frosting I'm seeing doesn't appear to be enough to crack the case, and remove a card. But I can never be 100% sure without looking at a card in person.