Thank you! As I prepare my first two submissions, I was wondering that very thing. If I hope a card is a 9, but know it could come back a 8 or even lower should I value it to my belief or if I value it as a 7, will it affect my grade with them thinking I don't believe in the card?
Based on your answer, I'm thinking too damned much! Which sadly is normal for me. I had even tried to find answers on the exact process to try and find out if the graders even know what valuation you gave. I couldn't find anything. But what you said makes sense. I know they have someone check in your cards, inventory them and enter them into the system. Don't they give them #'s so the graders don't even know whose cards they are grading?
I do have question about centering and the exact process. Does anyone know how they measure, what they use, etc? I've been using a rigid metal ruler with cork on the bottom and using mm and a spreadsheet to get the ratio. I've tried to guess in 1/4 mm increments if it wasn't exactly on the line. Am I on the right track? Anyone know that process?
The reason I check the centering is because I may not submit a card if it doesn't qualify. for example, a 1985 McGwire Olympic card. In a PSA 10, it's selling for good money. In a 9, not so much. I don't want to submit one that is automatically a 9 before it even gets to the grading.
Lastly, and maybe this deserves its own thread.... What are people's thoughts about choosing "no qualifier" and allowing them to do a straight grade? I have a few high end cards that to me are 8 or 9 quality, but the cut/centering is such by my measurements it could be no higher than a 7. It seems to me, that a really nice straight 7 would command more than an 8 or 9 (OC). I'm talking mostly 50's and 60's vintage and yes, max value is important to me as some of these may be sold. Thoughts?
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Originally Posted by Aquarian Sports Cards
There is more misinformation about this topic than, I think, any other with regards to grading.
There are tons of people who believe if you don't value a card high enough you won't get a good grade.
The value is strictly what you would like to receive to replace the card should it be lost or damaged. If you low-ball yourself you are playing with fire, but it has NO bearing on the grade.
I have been submitting to PSA for a LONG time and have never noticed any correlation between valuations and grades. My last submission I valued everything at or below $500 which was more than enough to protect my investment. I got back a 1965 Topps Mantle in 8 (will sell for somewhere around 3k) and a Seaver Rookie in 7 (will sell for around 1k) I always set my value at an amount I need to protect myself if the unthinkable happens, NOT at a value I hope they achieve.
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