Posted By:
Jeff LichtmanI think the acceptable grade really depends on the set. In my sets from the 50s, I can tell a significant difference between a 7 and 8. The difference between 8 and 9 (and 10) is often very subtle if anything at all. In sets from the 50s, I prefer 8s and up. But in E101, 102, 106, T216, etc. -- I'm happy with 4s and 5s (assuming I can even get them). And these 4s and 5s look as good to me as the 8s I have in newer sets.
As for Jim's and Michael's desire to own a common PSA 8 in pop 1 compared to a Cobb 6, I collected along those lines for years. The thought was that condition rarity was great for two reasons: a) the cards would be more valuable due to their scarcity; and b) a T206 in PSA 8 is a damn fine looking card no matter who is featured in the slab. The appearance is how the card probably looked coming out of the pack. My habits began to change, however, and I've unloaded many of the high grade 8s and 9s I have in favor of players I love. I have no doubt that this new collecting strategy will cost me money in the long run as the Registry guys will pay top dollar for rare high grade commons (there's no greater thrill than selling a 1958 Bennie Daniels PSA 8 for $3250 on ebay) as the cards I am collecting now are either (relatively) easily found or so obscure that no one but me would want them. But in the end, I'm happier opening up my boxes of cards and finding Cobbs, Chases, Mattys, Jacksons, McGraws, Browns etc. than Rube Manning PSA 9s. As has often been said on this site: collect what makes you happy and you'll be fine.