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Old 10-06-2021, 10:52 AM
rugbymarine rugbymarine is offline
Ian H@ll
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Southeast PA
Posts: 460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IgnatiusJReilly View Post
This is a fun topic. Setting aside extremely difficult sets and caveats about eye appeal, this is how it breaks down for me:

T206 - 1941 PB : 2-4 [*very* eye appeal dependent]
1948/49 Leaf - 1955 Topps : 5
1956 Topps - 1961 Topps : 6
1962 Topps - 1967 Topps : 7
1968 Topps - 1977 Topps: 8
1978 Topps - 1986 Topps: 9
1987 Topps - Current: 9-10

Of course there are tons of exceptions blah, blah, blah, but if I were to coarse grain average over my collection this is what would come out. I don't have the nicest collection but I think the cost-benefit balance is struck well for me with that breakdown.
This is close to my thoughts. I tend to aim a little lower in some areas (Pre-war) and maybe higher elsewhere with specific cards.

I have another general guideline that I follow: I aim for the NICEST looking card I can afford between $100 - $250. For most cards in the era I collect the most (post-war vintage), that means there's a nice range of grades/condition that I can look for. I'm even fine buying a lower grade card if I think it looks nice than the one I already have. This price range does not apply to key cards to your collection (Ruth, Jackie, Mantle, pre-war, most HOF RC before 1960,.....you get the idea).

As much as I can, before I buy, or aggressively bid on, a card, I'll ask myself, "In a year, will I want to upgrade this card?" If the answer to that question is anything but definitely NOT, I usually won't go for the card. It's kind of hard to explain, but I guess that's why this question has so many different answers.
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