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#1
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I do not like or have graded cards
Am I completely alone on this?
I've collected vintage cards for years and always crack open any graded cards (then placing in a sleeved top loader) if ever purchased. My reasons : 1) I don't like the large size and thickness of the slabs. It makes them difficult to store. 2) I don't like that the cards can not be touched if so desired. 3) I don't like the grading wording system. Example; owning a "poor" or "fair" Mickey Mantle. 4) I don't like the judging system. I often find that lower graded cards visually look better than higher graded cards. 5) Most importantly. I find that graded cards take away from the youthful enjoyment of the cards. It makes the cards into a business commodity instead of a family heirloom which is what they should be. I'm curious on any members thoughts on my view? Thank you. Last edited by Chuck9788; 10-16-2017 at 12:27 PM. |
#2
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You are entitled to your view and enjoy. I don't share any of that. I think vintage cards in holders (particularly SGC ones) look real neat, and I can show them off to people without worrying about someone doing something stupid or having dirty hands. And if it's a valuable card I have piece of mind that its secure.
Everyone has their views on this. I have no reason to hold a Babe Ruth or Lou Gehrig card in my fingers. They were long dead when I was born so I'm not reliving anything by touching them with my fingers. If I want to relive my childhood I'll buy a few packs of 2017 cards. Which I've done. Last edited by Snapolit1; 10-16-2017 at 12:33 PM. |
#3
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Quote:
__________________
Favorite MLB quote. " I knew we could find a place to hide you". Lee Smith talking about my catching abilities at Cubs Fantasy camp. |
#4
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I strongly prefer the look of raw cards, but I understand the benefits of grading and purchasing graded for some (but not all) cards and certain other memorabilia. However, in my opinion some folks are too quick to submit something to be slabbed without thinking through the need to do so for a particular item. If they like the way it looks and prefer it that way, fine, but it doesn't always make sense to grade some items when various other holders will protect items just as adequately. The answer to the grading question is, obviously, up to each collector to decide for themselves. I just fear a situation where collectors feel they must grade everything, just as a matter of course.
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#5
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I break out most cards that are graded, but there are some that it would be foolish for me to break out, such as my PSA 8 1968 Kahn's Ron Santo Red Stripe. Whenever I buy a 1952 Topps high number that is PSA 3 or 4, a Topps Venezuelan PSA 1 or 2, or a Pro's Pizza PSA 1 or 2, I break it out immediately.
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#6
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Who wouldn’t? Their pepperoni is “to die for”.
__________________
FRANK:BUR:KETT - RAUCOUS SPORTS CARD FORUM MEMBER AND MONSTER NUMBER FATHER. GOOD FOR THE HOBBY AND THE FORUM WITH A VAULT IN AN UNDISCLOSED LOCATION FILLED WITH NON-FUNGIBLES 274/1000 Monster Number Nearly*1000* successful B/S/T transactions completed from 2012 to 2024. Over 680 sales with satisfied Board members served. If you want fries with your order, just speak up. Thank you all. Now nearly PQ. |
#7
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Now I’m hungry.
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#8
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I agree with you because I am strictly a collector and baseball cards are just a hobby for me. If I was primarily a seller or even a collector/seller, or used baseball cards as an investment, grading would a fact of life
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#9
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The problem isn't the grading system, but how seriously the grading system is taken.
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#10
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I've never heard it stated that way, and I love it.
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#12
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Quote:
I completely agree on the graded card issue. There's nothing wrong with owning and collecting raw cards, but for cards worth more than a few hundred dollars I prefer the peace of mind that comes with knowing my card is basically safe in the holder.
__________________
Successful transactions with peter spaeth, don's cards, vwtdi, wolf441, 111gecko, Clydewally, Jim, SPMIDD, MattyC, jmb, botn, E107collector, begsu1013, and a few others. |
#13
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I agree with a little of what everyone has said here. I personally love sgc slabs for prewar. That being said I have a few raw matty’s In basic screw downs that look incredible as is. I think it really comes down to taste up until a certain figure. I think it’s foolish to purchase anything north of $1k raw. If you wanna crack after buying then that’s your prerogative but given the shadiness in the hobby I think it’s best to buy the slabs for any nominal large purchase. In an extreme example can you imagine someone forking over $100k on a raw Wagner? Why take chances in such situations.
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#14
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And many counterfeits are also still being made. At the 2009 National in Cleveland, a dealer had what was presented to be an example of a 1914 Baltimore News Babe Ruth on display. I politely asked if I might examine the card with my 16X loupe, and was not surprised to see the irregular, random dot pattern that is produced by taking a picture of a real card, re-screening it, and printing the card from there. Real halftone printing of vintage cards leaves a linear, regular dot pattern in comparison. I presently collect a certain set with many short-prints in it, some of which are tremendously tough to obtain, and of necessity, buy most of these raw, usually on ebay. But I check them when I receive them to ascertain they are not counterfeit. Summing up, it is both safer and better for marketability and value appreciation to buy graded cards past a certain value point. Just my $2.50 worth, Larry Last edited by ls7plus; 10-18-2017 at 03:35 PM. |
#15
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I recently completed 520 t206 set. Minus the big 4, a complete set. 80% of the cards are in PSA/SCG holders.
I absolutely would prefer to crack them all and put the cards is a nice binder. Easy to look at and show off. I never will of course because I want to maintain the value, but I would love them in a binder. |
#16
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I like them both ways...I see the pros and cons of both.
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#17
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I agree with you on almost all 5 of your reasons, but I also see grading as a necessity of the hobby.
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#18
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Would you could you in a box?
Would you could you with a fox? Sorry this sounded like the guy from Green eggs and Ham complaining, but I see you have bought graded cards in the past.. 1. Added protection, yes they can get heavy! 2. Added protection from inappropriate touching 3. Terms have been around long before grading was 4. When you (or heirs) go to sell, they'd best be graded
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"Trolling Ebay right now" © Always looking for signed 1952 topps as well as variations and errors |
#19
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To be fair i have a few graded cards. I have 2 Beckett graded cards that came from their testing period before any card was graded for the public. I have a few cards that they screwed up on the label. I collect error cards so figured I would add a few error slabs. These are from all the major companies, no bias here. I have a counterfeit card in a PSA slab. Have owned a few of these. I have a complete 1959 Fleer Ted Williams set in SGC slabs. I bought this set raw from a fellow member and they turned out to be way nicer than I thought I was purchasing. I like to touch my cards on a regular basis so i got them graded to protect them from myself. Every card in the set is graded NrMint or better except the few with wax stains. I also have a few cards I picked up in slabs and left them in the slabs. They are high end condition or top tier HOFers. Most cards I buy in slabs get cracked out though. |
#20
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I agree with you on several levels. I have a few graded cards, but I've cracked a few too. I'm putting together a nice set of 1964 (hockey) tall boys. If I buy a graded card, I crack it. Way too much plastic on the tall boys.
However, the point about having your heirs sell things is where I am at. I am leaning to get more of my higher end items graded, both for protection and so my daughters can maximize any return... which I hope is not for many years yet.
__________________
Successful transactions on Net54 with balltrash, greenmonster66; Peter_Spaeth; robw1959; Stetson_1883; boxcar18; Blackie |
#21
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Enjoy :
[QUOTE=
To be fair i have a few graded cards. I have a few cards that they screwed up on the label. I collect error cards so figured I would add a few error slabs. These are from all the major companies, no bias here. [/QUOTE] ..The card is a 1934 Gold Medal...I need to find one in a BVG holder to complete my trifecta... . |
#22
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I collect both graded (player sets) and ungraded (full sets) so I honestly don’t have a preference, but I would counter the “protection” argument for having cards graded. I would take a penny sleeve, toploader, and team bag any day over a slab solely based upon level of protection. Way cheaper as well.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Happy Collecting Ed |
#23
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Raw
Every card I have is raw. Used to have a complete Turkey Red set graded by PSA. Now I have a near complete raw Turkey Red set. I like it much better than I did the graded set.
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#24
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Seems to me there are people in every hobby who want to distinguish themselves from others as somehow being purer or more authentic in their collecting motives. I just don't get why that's important.
Jay Leno is a multi-millionaire who loves cars. He can buy the rarest cars out there and never drive them if he desires. Does that make him any less of a car collector / car lover than my friend down the street who has been restoring the love of his life in the garage for the last 25 years. I don't think so. I am sure most of the oft-malligned "investors" in the hobby love baseball and love baseball cards as much as people who go through the dollar boxes at shows. I know a bunch of them. And they won't shut up about baseball cards. Last edited by Snapolit1; 10-17-2017 at 07:04 PM. |
#25
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I like to call it gatekeeping. The gatekeepers of the hobby and it goes both ways.
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#26
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what about a nice high grade example ?
so you get a psa 7 or 8 card and immed break it out? or are we talking all low grade cards anyway? I do understand it I just think youre crazy for breaking out of holders it can be done anytime why rush haha |
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