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Help identifying issue PLUS real or fake? (three more)
I have a double whammy for the experts on the board today. I picked up these two cards in a recent collection I purchased, and I was looking for A) Some help indentifying this blank-backed Ruth card and B) Some consensus on whether this alleged '33 DeLong card is real or fake. It has a suspicious gloss to it as well what could be erasure marks on the reverse. At a minimum it also appears to be trimmed. I'm mostly a post-war guy but have been trying to learn more about pre-war cards. Thanks for your help. Rob
Last edited by RobertGT; 12-24-2010 at 07:57 AM. |
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I have doubts about the authenticity of that Ruth, which would be a W517 if real.
Have you put a black light to them? Last edited by FrankWakefield; 12-22-2010 at 09:20 PM. |
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Quote:
Thanks. |
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The R333 O'Doul is a reprint
The borders are too wide even though its trimmed. Also the border should blend into the clouds where they touch, also the players name at bottom should be crisper with the holes in letters like "R" "A" should be larger and cleaner. The uniform is off color too. this one is low grade but you can see the difference in quality and colors The W517-1 looks like its authentic (99.9997% sure ). If its a fake Ive never seen that good of one before. The most common reprints on those will have "W-517" printed in the lower corner border (usually seen scuffed off), and the back card stock is white and smooth. The Sepia versions of the W517-1 have a back like your color and also a more cream color. All of the authentic cards have a rough surface card stock, unlike the most common reprints which have a smooth card stock. Sepia W517-1 Last edited by fkw; 12-22-2010 at 10:08 PM. |
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I agree with what my fellow Frank has posted.
The dashed lines at the top of the Ruth are correct, sometimes reprints depict dots there. The lighter color at the lower left and lower right corners trouble me. If that cardstock was originally a white finish, and someone printed that brown Ruth on there, that lightening of the corners might occur as someone attempted to 'age' the reprint. A black light would go a LONG way toward resolving authenticity. A very modest investment with tremendous reliability. The dark frame looks correct. It's the light color on the corners that look wrong. It may well be fine. A bit of uv light is needed. |
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