Question about T206 back pricing

[cwazzy]

Hi guys. I just started collecting T206 cards a couple of weeks ago. I figured I'd start the set by building a St. Louis Cardinals team set in VG to VG-Ex (and a reprint of the O'Hara until the check for my Nigerian lottery winnings come in ). I would like to get a nice representation of the different back brands available and here is where my question comes into play. Can I get an estimate of what some of the less common back types will run in the VG grade? I don't really care about varieties within the different brands just an example or two of each. I hope this makes sense.

I'm sorry if this is an annoying question to the T206 experts of the forum but any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Chris

[cwazzy]

And in case anyone wants to see it this is all I've managed to aquire so far:

[teetwoohsix]

I am not a T206 expert by far,just a T-206 fiend.There are T206 experts on this board who can answer your question alot better than I can.But what I wanted to say is that it is difficult to give an estimate of a card just based on the back-so I guess you should wonder what an estimate would be with a certain player with a certain back,in vg3 grade.For instance-what would a Roger Bresnahan with a Tolstoi back go for(estimate) as opposed to a Bresnahan with a Piedmont back go for(estimate).Maybe this will help-by the way,thats a nice card you got-good luck on your goal-Sincerely,Clayton

[steve B]

I'm hardly an expert, but I did try the same thing with the backs for a few years. One of each brand, ignoring series etc. Fortunately I started a long time ago. Most of them are pretty easy and aren't much more expensive than the usual Sweet caporal or Piedmont. I'm still missing 2 or 3 (Is the Ty Cobb back still considered part of T206?) Drum and Uzit are really tough and pretty expensive. I've seen a couple drum backs, and couldn't afford them, even in really rough condition. Uzits are almost as tough, I actually have seen fewer, but I used to have Drum backs as a favorite search on Ebay and only looked for Uzits once in a while.

The card you've got is a nice start. My first T206 was a Beckley in very poor condition. Torn almost all the way through, and taped together. Of course it was only 20 cents, Which should give you a hint how long ago that was.

[jrog007]

One site that I frequently use as a reference when checking back pricing is t206.org. It has a valuation feature that combines fronts, backs, and condition. This, like most any publication, is just a guide so use it accordingly. Good luck!
Jim

[scottglevy]

Here's my suggestion. For right now ignore the subjects (e.g. 150, 350, 460) and concentrate on the back brands for common players.

You should find the following very easily:
Piedmont
Sweet Cap
Sovereign
Polar Bear
Old Mill

Then move onto the next group ... expect to pay 1.5 to 2x the common price:
- American Beauty
- Cycle
- EPDG
- Tolstoi

If you've gotten this far -- you now have 9 of the 15 regular issued backs. Forget about the 'Ty Cobb' unless you've got 5 digits to spend (it's debatable whether its a T206 anyway).

Ok now for the tougher stuff
Hindu, Carolina Brights and Broadleaf are not too tough yet ... and for a couple hundred bucks a piece you can pick up reasonable examples. even $100 can probably get you a real beater.

Lenox is significantly scarce
Uzit even more so
and Drum the most.

However, if you're willing to accept trimmed cards or true beaters even a Drum will cost you less than $1000.... and Lenox significantly less.

Happy hunting and let me know if you need help along the way !

Regards,
Scott

[ethicsprof]

Welcome aboard.
i'm pleased you're a lover of the Monster.
You already have much good advice here.
Scott's pricing is very helpful. although i would say that the
Broadleaf 460 is a pocketbook killer. The 350 would be the way to go in the beginning.
Remember the Monster wants you to quit.
Don't listen to it.

all the best,
barry

[Jantz]

Hi Chris,

I am not an expert, but I will try to help you with your question. A few years back I tried doing the same thing that you are doing, a team set with as many different backs I could get/afford. My team was Cleveland, you know the team with 3 different Cy Young cards and different Lajoie cards. Need I say more!

Your question is a complex one because there are so many factors involved here such as:

availability
front/back combinations
other player/team specific collectors
bidding wars

So trying to throw out estimates is can be difficult

Here is an example for you, last night on Ebay I was going to bid on a T206 of Al Burch (batting). The card was raw and probably would have got a grade of 3/40, but this Burch version always, from my observations, tends to go for a little more than a regular common T206. This Burch also had a Sovereign 150 back. Final closing price was $51. Needless to say that I didn't win this one.

What got me away from doing my Cleveland set was when I saw a Bill Bradley (portrait) with a Hindu (brown) back go for over $300 on Ebay. I knew that I wasn't going to reach my goal.

In no way am I trying to discourage you, but keep in mind, this kind of project is a long-term project . At first the cards will come quick, but sooner or later the brakes will hit. Unless that Nigerian lottery check finally comes in.

I hope that I answered your question and good luck if you continue with this. Also follow the advice in the posts above mine. Their suggestions will help you greatly.


Jantz