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Go Back   Net54baseball.com Forums > Net54baseball Postwar Sportscard Forums > Postwar Baseball Cards Forum (Pre-1980)

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  #1  
Old 06-10-2013, 08:20 PM
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vintagebaseballcardguy vintagebaseballcardguy is offline
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Default Set Consistency

I am finishing at '53 Topps set...again. I have a little start on '54 Topps and might come back to it. Next up, I am really thinking of '56 or '57 Topps because I think I could build a little higher grade of a set. With that said, I have learned a lot about consistency within a set. No matter which set I go after, the cards will all fall in the same range on qualities such as centering, registry, focus, etc. I expect the set will be a graded one. What do you think about a set that is largely graded in the 7 to 8 range (and high end examples of those grades) but the Mantle, which usually ends up being the most expensive card, coming in in the 6 range?? This Mantle graded a 6 would possess the qualities of the 7s and 8s in terms of centering, etc., but it would be a 6 while most of the rest of the set would be 7s or 8s. Would this look odd? I try not to get too hung up on what the holder says, it is more about eye appeal for me. I buy the card, not the holder. Would buying a Mantle a notch below the other cards look cheap?
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  #2  
Old 06-10-2013, 08:24 PM
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67_Palmer 67_Palmer is offline
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Look cheap to whom?
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  #3  
Old 06-10-2013, 08:30 PM
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I don't think one card being a grade lesser than the rest would significantly impact the overall value of the set other than a couple hundred bucks in the case of a Mantle. Me personally don't think it's worth the extra $10/ea. per common to have it slabbed a "7" when likewise raw cards can be bought cheaper, albeit you have to be patient for them
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  #4  
Old 06-10-2013, 09:11 PM
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Default Set Consistency

Quote:
Originally Posted by mintacular View Post
I don't think one card being a grade lesser than the rest would significantly impact the overall value of the set other than a couple hundred bucks in the case of a Mantle. Me personally don't think it's worth the extra $10/ea. per common to have it slabbed a "7" when likewise raw cards can be bought cheaper, albeit you have to be patient for them
Don't get me wrong, I agree with you. It's just maddening that dealers like the Battersbox and others who have NM commons ask almost as much for their raw cards as those selling slabbed commons deemed a "7". Honest to goodness auctions seem to be a thing of the past. It is hard to find high quality raw material where I live.
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Old 06-11-2013, 05:36 AM
Bestdj777 Bestdj777 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagebaseballcardguy View Post
Don't get me wrong, I agree with you. It's just maddening that dealers like the Battersbox and others who have NM commons ask almost as much for their raw cards as those selling slabbed commons deemed a "7". Honest to goodness auctions seem to be a thing of the past. It is hard to find high quality raw material where I live.
I've been really impressed with Dean's Cards so far. His prices are very fair and his customer service is great. If you are trying to pick up raw commons to fill out a set, I would recommend checking his site out.
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  #6  
Old 06-11-2013, 07:03 AM
vintagetoppsguy vintagetoppsguy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bestdj777 View Post
I've been really impressed with Dean's Cards so far. His prices are very fair and his customer service is great. If you are trying to pick up raw commons to fill out a set, I would recommend checking his site out.
Are you serious or is that a plug for Dean's Cards?

If you do an eBay search for "1956 Topps NM Dean's Cards -psa, -sgc" there are 149 results. In other words, you're searching raw cards only. Of those raw cards, the least of which is priced $49.99...for a raw NM common. Most of his '56 commons average about $60-$70 in NM condition. I agree with the customer service part, but how is $60-$70 for a NM raw 1956 Topps common a "fair price"?


********************************

To answer the original question, collect the way you like. To me, I like to have consistency. If I was builing a '56 set (which I am), I try to stick within half a grade (which I do). My '56 set is all graded between 7 and 7.5.

I was having this same conversation with another board member yesterday via PM. I had a sub that just popped and, to my surprise, there were a couple of 8s in there. Since I'm building the set for fun and not to compete on the registry, I was telling the other board member that I was going to take those 8s and sell them or trade down. They're out of place with the rest of the set because they're the only two in there. Likewise, I had a few 6s pop that I thought would have been 7s, so I will sell those as well.

If I were doing a broader range set (say from like 5.5 to 7.5), then it's not that big a deal. But when you have all 7s, then yes, I think a 6 would look out of place with your set (assuming that's the only one). That's just me though. As I said at first, collect the way you like.
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:59 AM
Zach Wheat Zach Wheat is offline
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Originally Posted by vintagebaseballcardguy View Post
Don't get me wrong, I agree with you. It's just maddening that dealers like the Battersbox and others who have NM commons ask almost as much for their raw cards as those selling slabbed commons deemed a "7". Honest to goodness auctions seem to be a thing of the past. It is hard to find high quality raw material where I live.
You are right auctions seem to be a thing of the past, particularly for items you really want! Murphy's Law of Vintage Collecting, I guess.
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  #8  
Old 06-10-2013, 08:35 PM
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All my sets are raw, but naturally the tough hits will come up with dinged corners, unless you wanna obviously pay. My pre war collection is small, but mostly slabbed.
I do always hear "buy the card, not the slab." However, sometimes I feel it to be a double standard of sorts. I say if you buy the card, not the slab, then dont buy slabbed cards!
But to answer your question more specifically, "no" I dont think its cheap. Good luck!

-wes....

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  #9  
Old 06-10-2013, 10:38 PM
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Good point, I do agree. Good luck, stay on track

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