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|  Valuations percentages 
			
			Ok, after my wife asking me many times to come up with a list, and an acceptable price to pay, I am doing so. But, I need some input. In my pre war wants the desired grade would be a 6 or equivalent and a 7 in post war. However, I am satisfied with many lower grades as well and was wondering what everyone thought the approximate values should be. So if pre war baseline is 6, what % should a 5 be of the 6 price? How about a 4?  If 7 is the post war target, what percentage should a 6 or a 5 be? I know the answers will not apply unilaterally due to the tremendous amount of variables, just looking for a reasonable assumption. Mark Medlin 
				__________________ You got any of them n series non sport and boxing in there? | 
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 I think, for the most part, it is a moving target and is therefore hard to put an exact number/% on. I noticed tonight this "8" Mays card and another copy in a "6". The "8" sold for 10X what the 6 did so is a Mays 7 only 5X? http://www.ebay.com/itm/401150210217...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT http://www.ebay.com/itm/351777911285...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT 
				__________________ 52 Topps cards. https://www.flickr.com/photos/144160280@N05/ http://www.net54baseball.com/album.php?albumid=922 | 
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			#3  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Really, for 1950s-70s Topps, it's an exponential increase as you move up towards 10.   Say a card is a $1 1956 common, raw. Maybe something like this: PSA 1: $1 PSA 2: $2 PSA 3: $3 PSA 4: $5 PSA 5: $8 PSA 6: $12 PSA 7: $20 PSA 8: $35 PSA 9: $75 PSA 10: $250 Is that what you're looking for? 1933 Goudey would probably be the same way, but all the values would be 5x since a common is $5 raw at least? 
				__________________ -- PWCC: The Fish Stinks From the Head PSA: Regularly Get Cheated BGS: Can't detect trimming on modern SGC: Closed auto authentication business JSA: Approved same T206 Autos before SGC Oh, what a difference a year makes. | 
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			#5  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Hi Mark, For T206 commons, as a rule of thumb, if a 6 is 1.0 then a 5 is about 0.6 and a 4 is about 0.3. Again, this is just rough and ready based on sales the last couple of years.  Scot
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			#6  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Thank you for your posts. I appreciate you all trying to help me with this.
		 
				__________________ You got any of them n series non sport and boxing in there? | 
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			#7  
			
			
			
			
			
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			One rule of thumb I used to follow was to take the price at a given grade then multiply by .65 or .70 to get the next lowest grade.  So if a 7 is $1000, a 6 would be about $650-$700.   This is only a guide and not a perfect formula. This does not always hold true for certain cards or issues that see a huge jump from 7 to 8, or 8 to 9, etc. | 
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			#8  
			
			
			
			
			
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			I think your wife asks too many difficult questions. We may need to involve Frank for a final ruling on this one. God help us all! 😭 Tom C | 
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			#9  
			
			
			
			
			
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			You rang?
		 
				__________________ RAUCOUS SPORTS CARD FORUM MEMBER AND MONSTER FATHER. GOOD FOR THE HOBBY AND THE FORUM WITH A VAULT IN AN UNDISCLOSED LOCATION FILLED WITH WORTHLESS NON-FUNGIBLES 274/1000 Monster Number | 
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			#10  
			
			
			
			
			
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			A late reply but one nonetheless, it seems a 7 will be double or more what a 6 is, and you can do that, and more, going up each grade. Each series is different though and the registry folks drive the high end prices (*and some investors/collectors). I have always thought the grade of 6 to be a great bang for the buck.  Quote: 
 
				__________________ Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com | 
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			#11  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Just tell her to involve you in the decision so she doesn't get screwed. Honestly. Giving her a guide may be good, it may help her surprise you, but it's worse to hear she got taken and paid way too much for what she purchased for you.
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