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#1
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Definitely scary! Here is the real thing for comparison.
JimB ![]() |
#2
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Jim,
Not a good example to post as comparison. "Normal" E93s don't look like that. ![]() Yours is probably the nicest I've ever seen...so nice that it looks fake! Great card. Rob Last edited by caramelcard; 09-07-2012 at 09:47 PM. |
#3
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good home-made fakes are out there, you just need a good scanner and printer. but i bet in hand it will become more obvious. i expect the stock to be stiffer, hard to replicate 100 yr old cardboard.
__________________
One post max per thread. |
#4
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I've collected ancient coins for the last 15 years and I can tell you that's a market that has almost been completely ruined by fakes and alteration. People have figured out how to fake a decent looking patina and have scared many many collectors out of collecting. I bought a coin last month, for $50, that I couldn't get for less then 300-400 ten years ago.
Lithographed cards have always scared me the most. Couldn't someone make a great fake using screen printing methods? Like Quan stated above, it'll be the cardboard that won't be replicated. From issue to issue its too different. What if a method was developed to remove all ink from a common card, then a more valueable card was printed... Whoa, scary. Hopefully Steve B will chime in and tell us it's impossible. |
#5
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I believe one of our board members (Kevin S?) has a card that has had the front removed and attached to another. Like a 206/205. I guess anything is possible now days
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#6
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Money counterfeiters have been doing that for years, bleaching singles and turning them into $50 and $100 bills. My guess is it would be easier to do with cards.
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#7
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Screen printing won't produce a decent copy. Plus the look of each type of printing is different. Making an exact duplicate of most old cards is possible but would be expensive and require a lot of skill in more than one area. Plus a good original to work from or a very high res scan. Removing all the ink from a card can be done, it's much tougher on the back than the front. The back is usually the raw cardboard but the front is coated so it will accept the ink in a different way, making the colors brighter. The problem is finding a solvent that will work well without leaving obvious odors. The only one I know that fits that has been essentially banned since the late 90's to protect the ozone. (111Tricloroethane ) I've seen a couple really amazing fakes. One was a 51 Bowman Mantle. It looked amazing, but everyone that held it had the same reaction - "nice card, too bad it's fake" But nobody that saw it could figure out exactly why they felt it was fake. This was in 1982! The other is a Joe Wood E121. If it wasn't for the fake overall stain and a back mismatch it would probably get past most people. I bought that one in 1978. On the good side, modern printing is done from computer direct to the press with the plate made on the press itself. And that will usually look about like the product of a nice computer printer. The skills to do stuff the old way are going to become less common as time goes by. Steve B |
#8
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That's interesting, Steve, that the better fakes you've seen were created 30+ years ago.
Thanks for your input. |
#9
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The Fro Joy Babe Ruth cards were counterfeited in the 70's, but the counterfeits were not of the factory cut singles, instead from counterfeit singles. People cut the fake sheets and sold the cards as singles (still do) or sold the entire sheets as if they were authentic. Some of these, with the dotted cut lines, perfect centering, poor image, etc can be found on ebay now. They're poor reproductions at best, but they're from the 70's, so do give an appearance of "old."
Then along came repli-cards, which were much better reproductions. Anyone familiar with how to spot a fake sheet or single cut from a fake sheet could still be ripped off with these and may have led some people to believe a printing plate still exists. But upon closer inspection, although they did a good job of printing the dark sections of each card, they did a poor job of printing the lighter areas. Take the #3 and #4 cards for example, fake next to a real card pictured below (scanned side by side with the same settings before extracting specific areas for comparison): ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by Clutch-Hitter; 09-08-2012 at 10:50 AM. |
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