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#1
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Does anybody have an estimation of what percentage of cards presently residing in TPG cases have been altered? Or has a sample ever been taken?
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#2
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If it is every proven it is more than .0001%, we are all in deep **** with our collection value.
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#3
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Why? Judging by what I see, a whole heck of a lot of people don't care. They only care about getting the pretty card and flip they paid for, quickly, and well-packaged.
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Net 54-- the discussion board where people resent discussions. ![]() My avatar is a sketch by my son who is an art school graduate. Some of his sketches and paintings are at https://www.jamesspaethartwork.com/ Last edited by Peter_Spaeth; 01-18-2018 at 05:39 PM. |
#4
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Peter, for argument’s sake, let’s say I agree with your premise that many altered cards reside in graded holders, AND I care about it, what’s your conclusion? What would you recommend one do? Avoid graded cards? Avoid high grade? To be clear, this is not intended to be a confrontational question. I’m genuinely interested on the advice you’d give a new collector given the reality of the things you’re mentioning.
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#5
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If you learned that a percentage of TPA LOAs for autographs were incorrect, how would that affect your collecting of autographs? Would you still accept them as 100% accurate and cross your fingers? Or would you educate yourself about autograph authentication, take more care in picking autographs? What would you think of an industry that uses TPA LOAs as the final arbiter? Duly note it is not the autograph and game used experts who take TPA LOAs as infallible and the final arbiters as what is authentic and not (go to the autograph section or the game used universe form to see this). It is collectors who lack knowledge, auction houses who want "insurance" and resellers who want something to move their product. You will find that expert collectors in these areas are DIY types. My collecting personal advice on cards would to stick to mid to lower grades. Don't get price enamored by the grade on the label. There are a lot of great looking cards in lower grade, many presentable even good to poor grade. You skip all that Gem Mint, resubmit a card 10 times until you raise the grade by 0.5 crapola. If there's a missed flaw, saw a small wrinkle, on a 'Gem Mint' card that's a travesty; on a low grade card its no big deal. If you want to buy raw cards, that's great, but find reputable and trustworthy dealers to buy them from. Some people look for the cards, then see who is the seller. As a collector, I would find my favorite sellers and see what they were selling. Just my opinion-- everyone will have his own take and advice. Last edited by drcy; 01-19-2018 at 02:07 AM. |
#6
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Provenance will never matter when it comes to something like baseball cards. They were collected by children and rarely does a 100 plus year old card stay in one collection for the life of the card. So what provenance could there possibly be on a high grade T206? A notarized statement from an 8 year old in 1909? It'll never work.
My advice to anyone would be to avoid high grade pre-war cards entirely. I'd pay the same amount of money for a PSA 9 T206 that I would an Auth because I highly doubt there's any difference between them. But to each their own. Last edited by packs; 01-19-2018 at 07:21 AM. |
#7
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My advice to a new collector on a budget would be to stick to low/mid grade pre-war cards with nice eye appeal. My personal sweet spot is in the VG-VG/EX range. Chances are if you do this you will be able to find nice presentable cards at relative bargain prices and the likelihood of alterations is also presumably decreased.
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#8
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Considering that it's done by people, that percentage would mean they're doing a pretty good job. |
#9
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I've said this before, but I think it bears some repeating.
The entire process for authentication and grading is backwards. Sure, there are a lot of cards that can be done by pretty much anyone. Stuff that's not particularly prone to recoloring, and is in pretty worn condition. I'd say that cards with colored borders are more likely to be recolored even in lower grades - we've seen a great example right here. But to take the cards, and push them through faster based on value is not what makes any sense. I suspect that actually only means the cards that are expensive get their limited inspection sooner, probably to make the insurance company happy. Even if you can't accept a system that handles higher value cards more slowly, maybe a system that triaged where effort was spent? Send in a box of VG anything, and it goes to the new guy. Send in a bunch of cards that might be in higher grades, send them to more experienced people. Possible high grade cards with fairly high value if they are high grade should get much more scrutiny. And I mean actually taking time to be sure everything is "right" with the card. And if something isn't "right" put the opinion of that in writing so it's clear. No "questionable" authenticity, No "we won't slab it because it's been tampered with" none of that nonsense. It wouldn't work for less expensive cards, but ultimately all card graded should have the flaws explained, and in writing. Steve B |
#10
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__________________
Items for sale or trade here UPDATED 3-16-18 |
#11
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My advice was just for a single new collector if he asked.
Just one thing that I would do hobby wide is to estimate is the margin of error just in assigning the grade, for example as exemplified as through all those resubmissions to get a different grade, and put that margin of error on the label. In science, identifying and expressing the margin of error is integral and essential when communicating results. If a label said "ExMt 6 with margin of error of 5%" that would change things quite a bit. If with numbers people, this margin of error is well known and talked about, if indirectly. There are those who resubmit to get a different grade, people who say "Do you this could get a bump?" and people who say one card looks better than another though in the same number grade. All I'm saying this margin of error should be explicitly expressed on the product for everyone to see, and for this margin of error be expressed in all calculations and considerations. Everything-- in science, life and grading-- has a margin of error. There is nothing wrong with that. The problem is when people, and a system, act as if there is no margin of error. And would that margin of error have to be reflected in the registry numbers? Of course. Would it change pricing on many cards and all that? Probably, but so be it. But much of the hobby is based on bad math and statistics. Do I think this will happen? Of course not. The collectors would fight this more than the graders. PSA registry people would probably have a stroke. Another practical and specific fix would be there should be formal grades for photographs. And I don't say that as some vague, generalized rule, but for specific reason. Last edited by drcy; 01-19-2018 at 12:24 PM. |
#12
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Personally I would prefer that TPA's simply authentic cards and let the buyer decide what grade the card is to them. Assigning numbers is foolish to me because every collector should be able to determine what a card is worth to themselves without some phony number getting involved. And we've seen time and time again that a card can be "Good" one day, returned for another look, and come out "Very Good" the next despite nothing changing. In that scenario authentic cards that have been trimmed will sell for the same price as high grade cards and I think that price will be closer to what authentic cards sell for now than it would to the PSA 9 price. And cards that are in lower "collector" grades will likely balloon in value under that system.
Last edited by packs; 01-19-2018 at 12:05 PM. |
#13
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Steve, over .0001% of 29 million things is not 3,000, it's 30.
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#14
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My math is bad, but the right math makes the margin of error a lot smaller. ![]() I'm really sure more then 30 items have made it through PSA that really shouldn't have. |
#15
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I know you did. But as they say, technically correct is the best kind of correct.
I'm not sure what he meant by we would be in deep **** valuewise if it was proven that 30 cards got through undetected. I'm pretty sure that NM/Mint collectors would have over 10% altered cards in their collections. |
#16
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I have no idea about percentage, but with the number of people I know to be card doctors, and the number of years they have been doing it, and some sense of how many cards they work on, it adds up.
__________________
Net 54-- the discussion board where people resent discussions. ![]() My avatar is a sketch by my son who is an art school graduate. Some of his sketches and paintings are at https://www.jamesspaethartwork.com/ |
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