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Cesar and Matt, I hear you and do the same thing. My sets are a mix of raw and graded. Most of my stars are graded. I even have some graded commons. I didn't plan on graded commons, but I got some deals along the way. Sometimes I look at a card and think it could stand to be improved but it's usually a common or not a key card, and there's no point. I am not trying to impress anyone and few others will ever even see my cards. Most of my collection is middle of the road mid-grade which is free of creases. There are exceptions. My Aaron is a 3. It has a little minor creasing near the top of the card and corner wear. If I wasn't so lazy, I would scan some pics. My Banks and Kaline are crease-free 4s. They give me a very presentable set. I could upgrade some or all of them, but I like them and would rather spend the money moving on to 1955 and my football exploits.
Matt, I have seen your set progress, and it is impressive! You have to do what makes you happy. I could be very content with your Big 3. There was a time when I thought I had to have 6s or better. Now I don't. Good luck with whatever you opt to do. It will be terrific either way! Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk |
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#2
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When I was just starting out building sets I got some great advice from a dealer at a show. He said "Don't sweat the commons too much. Go for stars .5 to 1 grade better than the commons." I have followed that ever since and been quite happy with the finished products ever since.
__________________
Items for sale or trade here UPDATED 3-16-18 |
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#4
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Good perspective, Robert. I completed my 1953 Topps set earlier this year to bring my complete set collection to '53 thru '56. I sold off '57 thru '80 a couple of years ago...in part to finance the aforementioned set completions.
I also completed the 'Lower 310' of the 1952 set, but, due to the (IMO) outrageous pricing of the Mantle card, I have accepted that I will never complete that one. Ten of my '54 cards are graded, but the rest would all be at least EX, with most at EX/MT - so I won't have any borderline cards as you do...but it cost me. I sure yours are fine and if you're happy with them, that's all that really counts...as you know, it is affordable to upgrade when you can. 1954 TOPPS - HENRY AARON - PSA-6.jpg
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. "A life is not important except in the impact it has on others lives" - Jackie Robinson “If you have a chance to make life better for others and fail to do so, you are wasting your time on this earth.”- Roberto Clemente |
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Liberating indeed. I build sets by buying lots and filling in when it is needed. Because I buy lots, I also build second sets which are lower grade. These are extremely liberating. I can buy an Aaron for $10 and a Mantle for $45 and knock the set off. I can take my main set, upgrade as I see fit and move those cards to my second set. If I wanted to liquidate, I can hold onto the second set and get money for the first set. I can buy a filler for the main set and wait until I upgrade it to move it to my second set.
The second sets have been more fun as the purpose is just to seek the card and not the condition. It is really why we collect.
__________________
Member of OBC (Old Baseball Cards), the longest running on-line collecting club www.oldbaseball.com |
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Last edited by vintagebaseballcardguy; 08-18-2018 at 09:04 AM. |
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__________________
I'm always looking for t206's with purple numbers stamped on the back like the one in my avatar. The Great T206 Back Stamp Project: Click Here My Online Trading Site: Click Here Member of OBC (Old Baseball Cards), the longest running on-line collecting club www.oldbaseball.com My Humble (Outdated) Blog: Click Here |
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Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk |
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