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Go Back   Net54baseball.com Forums > Net54baseball Postwar Sportscard Forums > Postwar Baseball Cards Forum (Pre-1980)

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Old 07-30-2023, 08:48 PM
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Peter_Spaeth Peter_Spaeth is online now
Peter Spaeth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschool73 View Post
Hi,
After a 30year absence from the hobby, I am back...and my have things changed. I've decided to stick to Vintage Topps as there are too many mid boggling choices for new cards (one reason I left the hobby in 1990)...

Grading: What's the real skinny? I bought 6 HOFers from the 50s from a well respected dealer via multiple auctions on ebay-had them graded by SGC-and all came back .5-2 grades lower than the dealer had "raw" graded them. Fortunately, when I pointed this out-I was refunded (minus grading fees) for which I am grateful. However, what expectations should I have? My current data/experience suggest over grading to be common. Admittedly, a .5 variance seems reasonable (even though the pricing really takes a hit)...but a 1-2 grade variance?
No doubt this has been discussed ad nauseum..but , before I leave the hobby again, can the gurus on this forum please advise?
Thanks,
OS73
Here is a card of mine SGC graded 4 grades too low, or even 5. PSA, at least, graded it a 6, although I don't get that either. Both me and a friend who also saw it, a guy who knows cards extremely well, called the card Mint and at absolute worst NM MT.

With so many kiddie graders whose standard is a perfect ultra modern card, it seems like a very high risk proposition now to submit anything vintage or even pre ultra modern. My whole SGC sub went like this. Total waste of money.
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Last edited by Peter_Spaeth; 07-30-2023 at 09:01 PM.
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Old 07-31-2023, 03:09 PM
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James M
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If you get into grading and submit multiple orders, you will realize that there is no real uniformity in grading, at least at the main graders. PSA and SGC are using AI in some ways (though they are vague about how they are doing it), but they still have humans grading the cards, and when humans grade cards, you will get subjective grades back. What looks like a 5 to one person might be a 6 to another grader.

Generally speaking, if you are buying raw cards and the seller has "graded" them, you need to take their grade with a grain of salt. There are a few that do a really nice job grading raw vintage, but their grade is just an estimation and your actual grade from the TPG could have a 3 grade swing to it.

You also need to invest in a few tools if you really want to have an idea where your cards stand before you get them graded, such as a small jeweler's loupe and a good lamp. You have to closely examine the surface of cards, because even the faintest surface wrinkle that can't be seen without magnification/supplemental light will torpedo your card's grade, even if the rest of the card is super clean.

If I see a card listed raw as "EX" and its not from one of the handful of raw vintage dealers I trust, I always dock the card at least one grade down when thinking about how much I want to pay for it. If you are buying in person, you can inspect the cards and tilt them in the light before you buy. If you buy online, generally speaking, you should probably never buy a raw card unless you see a good, high quality scan of both the front and the back of the card, and again, even that will only tell you so much.

Best of luck.
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