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#1
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There is at least one guy, besides Sixto, who likes Sixto. When I built the Topps 1985 Mini set in both regular and blank back, someone contacted me and said he was a collector of all Sixto cards and offered me a lot of money for the blank back. But since it was part of a fairly tough set I kept it.
Also, what does the little green arrow on this thread mean ? Last edited by ALR-bishop; 11-18-2017 at 08:15 AM. |
#2
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I've really enjoyed reading this thread if for no other reason than to confirm there are other collectors out there who share some of my thoughts and preferences. I'm a set-builder who likes decent-condition raw cards with no regard for their investment value. I started collecting as a second-grader in 1972; beginning in 1974, the first year all the cards were issued in one series, I realized that spending all my allowance and lawn-mowing money on wax packs made putting together the complete set possible. Since then I've been obsessed with having the entire set of whatever year I'm collecting.
My only exception is a separate collection of Clemente, Aaron, Mays and Frank Howard cards. I started acquiring duplicates of all their Topps cards (so as not to break up my existing sets), then trying to obtain every Topps insert (1968 game card, 1964 stand-ups, 1963 peel-offs, etc.) and every non-Topps card of them (interesting that Aaron didn't appear in '63 Fleer or the early-'70s Kelloggs cards). My set-completing tendencies have taken over -- it genuinely bugs me that I haven't yet acquired the 1969 Transograms of Aaron and Mays or the 1962 Canadian version of Clemente's Post cereal card. I'll probably never get any pre-1954 Mays cards or Aaron's rookie, but it's important to have goals. |
#3
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Why does Topps put numbers on their cards? They want you to get them all by buying more packs. Why does Topps have SPs? They want you to buy more packs to get them all. Why does Topps no longer sell gum? Gum stains damage cards and no one putting a set together wants to chew the gum from all the packs they were “forced” to buy.
Factory sets you say. Yup, one and done, but booooooooooring. Keep the shrink wrap intact and never look at the cards to prepare for the 2083 REA Auction. Problem solved. To fool around a couple of years ago I put a 1950 Bowman FB set together. I purchased lots and individual cards with only 1 rule. What was the rule? When completed the set was not have cost me more than $8/card. This created an interesting challenge, because I also wanted the set to be as nice as possible, but then again I couldn’t blow my wad on a high grade Graham, Tittle or Baugh. The chase and the end result were both interesting. I was able to feed the kitty, so to speak, by selling dupes from lots for a modest profit. To stay within my proscribed budget though I did end up with lower condition cards of Graham and Tittle. However my Baugh is respectable. About 40 of the cards are graded and overall the set is EX-EXMT. Less than 10% of the cards are outliers on the low end. I spent less than $1300 on the set and think it would sell as a set for more now. A more recent project was my mutilated 1955 Topps Baseball Set including both RCs of Clemente and Koufax. Here no effort was made on card condition. It’s raunchy but complete and represents my only true “OBC-like” experience. So many options on putting sets together other than PSA Registry Sets (UGH!)
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#4
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Quote:
I love the CHASE more than the results. My current project is completing my 1953 Topps set. I have graded Mantle and Mays cards, but the rest are raw and I go after EX-MT or better. I am down to 20 cards, but there is no rush...stringing that wonderful chase out as long as possible. I buy emotionally and, for the most part, 'DON'T NEED NO STINKING BUDGET!'. I collect for the enjoyment and don't worry too much about loosing money...let the nephews worry about that after I'm gone.. -
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. "A life is not important except in the impact it has on others lives" - Jackie Robinson “If you have a chance to make life better for others and fail to do so, you are wasting your time on this earth.”- Roberto Clemente Last edited by clydepepper; 11-18-2017 at 10:49 AM. Reason: spelling error |
#5
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Frank-- the kind of prattle in your post above belongs on the main board in the What you don't know thread
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#6
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Am I the only one who views vintage set building as an enjoyable investment opportunity? I recently talked to a dealer that said he sold a high grade 1959 topps set for $20,000. I spend a lot of time on my hobby. I have that luxury since my kids are grown and I don't have a wife.
I do hope that when the time is right, I can pass on my collection to other collectors. |
#7
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$20 k
Quote:
.. |
#8
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I believe that in person deals will always be better than any online deals.
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#9
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Quote:
AndyH
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I'm always looking for t206's with purple numbers stamped on the back like the one in my avatar. The Great T206 Back Stamp Project: Click Here My Online Trading Site: Click Here Member of OBC (Old Baseball Cards), the longest running on-line collecting club www.oldbaseball.com My Humble Blog: Click Here |
#10
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Some people love that stuff in their sets, I know. But when I get cards, if any have creases/bends/indentations, are badly off centered, have paper loss, pin holes, etc., they go into the trash.
I collect Ex or better with 85/15 or better centering and no creases/bends/indentations. I can stand a rough edge (no rounded), but not any paper loss. Makes building sets a bit tougher. But it's tough anyway because people price their stuff at like half of BV for singles. That's why I try to buy lots here and there and then trade extras for stuff I need. By doing that, I put together a 1958 Topps set in Ex or better condition for under $500. I'm currently $50 into my '62 Topps set, and I have nearly 200 different. But to be honest, I have trouble trading around here. I guess because I'm new and I've only been here about 2-3 years. Not really sure why it's so tough to trade around here. Quote:
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#11
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I am working on my 1973 set, with 130 cards to go.
I'll never do another set. It's takes time and patience, and I am spending too much money on it. The only reason I am building the set is fond memories as a kid and the first cards I remember actively collecting. That said, I will be glad I did it though.
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My new found obsession the t206! |
#12
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I can totally understand collecting sets in nicer condition. And many of my key cards are actually nicer examples. But for the hundreds and hundreds of commons...I could care less if they are mint or not. I respect someone putting together a nice high grade set of course, and think they look great. But just not for me.
__________________
I'm always looking for t206's with purple numbers stamped on the back like the one in my avatar. The Great T206 Back Stamp Project: Click Here My Online Trading Site: Click Here Member of OBC (Old Baseball Cards), the longest running on-line collecting club www.oldbaseball.com My Humble Blog: Click Here |
#13
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Back in aught-9 I put together the 73 topps set from scratch in Raw G-VG condition. it took me about 3 or 4 months if I remember correctly. Not exactly a marathon, but I had a great time doing it !
Started from scratch. Took me 38 auction wins on ebay to do it. Nine of those were single cards, the rest were lots ranging from 2 to 346. Four of them were lots of greater than 300 cards and 3 more were greater than 100 cards. I waited till I had completed the set, then sold 1381 duplicates in one ebay auction. Spent $599.86, cleared $279.53 on the duplicates, so net I paid $320.33 to build the set and had a lot of fun doing it! I prolly won't try that again though because I don't think there is another set that meets the same criteria of: a set I love, plenty of lots on ebay, relative inexpensive. That being said, it was definitely worth the trouble! Last edited by tonyo; 02-01-2018 at 12:28 PM. |
#14
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I wondered that too - I don't think it means the OP is Oliver Queen.
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#15
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You can add that decorative arrow with a click when you create a new thread. To paraphrase Shakespeare, it is a tale full of sound and fury, signifying nothing.
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#16
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What are you guys even talking about?
The green arrow means " Hey look over here!" So, this thread has definitely drifted away. Thanks for all of the focused input. |
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