Selling raw vintage ... what's a good price?

[wdwfan]

bnorth, the book I have only has a high and low BV. It's the annual vintage book that comes out. So that's why I go off of.

cozumeleno, I could see doing that for a couple of the bigger cards/stars or for graded. But I don't deal in graded, it's all raw. Plus, I'm pricing a couple of thousands of cards for an upcoming show. So don't want to take the hours upon hours to check out each $5 BV card to see what it sells for. Would rather just throw them all in a $1 box or a $2 box, etc.


x2drich2000, thanks for the help. That Aaron was the first big vintage card I bought after getting into vintage about 4-5 months, and I was told it was in Ex condition.

It does have a very small surface issue on the left side just under the word Braves. The seller said it didn't go all the way through the card, so it's not technically a crease. It's more an indentation or a bend. I know it also has some soft corners and is off centered.

That's why I listed it as VG and at $28. I figured someone might throw that for a VG condition card that books for $120. But still learning, and I've been trying tto learn since picking up my first vintage card about 4 months ago. It seems vintage is a lot tougher to sell/trade/move and figure up condition than modern ever was.

[bnorth]

Originally Posted by wdwfan

bnorth, the book I have only has a high and low BV. It's the annual vintage book that comes out. So that's why I go off of.

Usually when it is just listed as high and low that is the price range for NrMint cards. This is just a general rule but try this as a start.

NrMint 100%
ExMint 50-75%
Ex 30-50%
Vg 15-30%
G/F/P 5-15%

Hope this helps.

[wdwfan]

It does. Thank you.

Originally Posted by bnorth

Usually when it is just listed as high and low that is the price range for NrMint cards. This is just a general rule but try this as a start.

NrMint 100%
ExMint 50-75%
Ex 30-50%
Vg 15-30%
G/F/P 5-15%

Hope this helps.

[Cozumeleno]

Originally Posted by wdwfan

cozumeleno, I could see doing that for a couple of the bigger cards/stars or for graded. But I don't deal in graded, it's all raw. Plus, I'm pricing a couple of thousands of cards for an upcoming show. So don't want to take the hours upon hours to check out each $5 BV card to see what it sells for. Would rather just throw them all in a $1 box or a $2 box, etc.

Oh yeah, for sure. Anything under like $15, I wouldn't recommend that for. Not worth your time. But eBay's completed sales are generally a good indicator for standard vintage like that and there should be plenty of raw examples to compare with. Prices do fluctuate a little based on who's watching and what not. But that will be much more representative than any price guide.

[conor912]

Originally Posted by wdwfan

That Aaron was the first big vintage card I bought after getting into vintage about 4-5 months, and I was told it was in Ex condition.

Then I would strongly advise you to stop everything and learn the grades before you proceed. A proper grasp on grading is imperative to buying and selling raw, otherwise you're going to get burned on both ends.

[Fred]

What is considered "book value" (BV)? Would that be NRMT? EXMT? What's the starting point?

[Leon]

Originally Posted by Fred

What is considered "book value" (BV)? Would that be NRMT? EXMT? What's the starting point?

I think book value is usually NRMT condition when they speak of it. And then the percentage of book. If I get 15-20% on my commons, or even mid tier HOF'ers, I am usually happy. There are too many 50s-70s Topps, in avg condition, for the number of collectors and the issue isn't getting better. Just my half cent.

[ls7plus]

Originally Posted by Leon

I think book value is usually NRMT condition when they speak of it. And then the percentage of book. If I get 15-20% on my commons, or even mid tier HOF'ers, I am usually happy. There are too many 50s-70s Topps, in avg condition, for the number of collectors and the issue isn't getting better. Just my half cent.

Absolutely +1 re the last sentence above!

Highest regards,

Larry

[wdwfan]

Originally Posted by Leon

There are too many 50s-70s Topps, in avg condition, for the number of collectors and the issue isn't getting better. Just my half cent.

I think you posted something about this on a thread over on Blowout. As a new collector to vintage, is this something that should concern me? Right now I'm trying to build my collection of average 50s-70s. Is that something that should be avoided? I've been going back-and-forth on what and how I want to collect to be honest. Now this makes me even more nervous.

[Leon]

Originally Posted by wdwfan

I think you posted something about this on a thread over on Blowout. As a new collector to vintage, is this something that should concern me? Right now I'm trying to build my collection of average 50s-70s. Is that something that should be avoided? I've been going back-and-forth on what and how I want to collect to be honest. Now this makes me even more nervous.

As long as you buy it right, and have fun doing it, you will be ok. Use realized prices on ebay, and wherever else, as to what the market is especially for those low-mid grade Topps cards. When I first started setting up at shows a few years ago I bought a lot of groups of those average 50s-60s Topps in many different places. Sometimes I did pretty good and other times not so much. I probably still have 4000-5000 just hanging out behind me in a corner.

[wdwfan]

Good to know. Right now I've been buying Ex or better (or trying to buy that condition) from the late 1950s-mid 1970s. I've been trying to decide which year(s) I wanted to build sets from.

Then I was told at my LCS that the 70s cards are worthless no matter the grade and to focus on 50s-1965. So, that's kind of what I've been doing. That's why I decided against finishing the 71 set (had about half) and 74 set (had about 610 different).

Originally Posted by Leon

As long as you buy it right, and have fun doing it, you will be ok. Use realized prices on ebay, and wherever else, as to what the market is especially for those low-mid grade Topps cards. When I first started setting up at shows a few years ago I bought a lot of groups of those average 50s-60s Topps in many different places. Sometimes I did pretty good and other times not so much. I probably still have 4000-5000 just hanging out behind me in a corner.

[Aquarian Sports Cards]

Originally Posted by Leon

As long as you buy it right, and have fun doing it, you will be ok. Use realized prices on ebay, and wherever else, as to what the market is especially for those low-mid grade Topps cards. When I first started setting up at shows a few years ago I bought a lot of groups of those average 50s-60s Topps in many different places. Sometimes I did pretty good and other times not so much. I probably still have 4000-5000 just hanging out behind me in a corner.

I actually love the mid-grade stuff fro the 50's I find I can move it quite fast, and can usually buy it right. That of course is the key. If you overpay you can't make a profit. Easy game, huh?

[Rrrlyons]

I will repeat what most people are saying don't go to the "book" first go to eBay do a search on a card if you don't really know and the sales will give you range.
A search on that card shows at least 20 cards that have sold in the last month in that condition from $4.31-$20 most in $15 range. Rick

[Fred]

If NRMT is the BV starting point, then 15% on commons in VG shape is actually a pretty good sell price for most cards that are abundantly available.

[wdwfan]

Problem is I didn't see the card until it arrived. Then it was too late. The buyer told me it was Ex. Since it was my first purchase, I took thier word for it.

Originally Posted by conor912

Then I would strongly advise you to stop everything and learn the grades before you proceed. A proper grasp on grading is imperative to buying and selling raw, otherwise you're going to get burned on both ends.

[glynparson]

Everything is card by card there is absolutely not some magic percentage at which all things sell, well maybe 0% you can surely move everything. You just have to research each item individually. Nice pics and a reputation as an honest seller will help you eventually get more for your offerings. Good luck in your future dealings.

[conor912]

Originally Posted by glynparson

well maybe 0% you can surely move everything.

You haven't tried giving away late 80s commons, have you?

[ls7plus]

Originally Posted by conor912

Then I would strongly advise you to stop everything and learn the grades before you proceed. A proper grasp on grading is imperative to buying and selling raw, otherwise you're going to get burned on both ends.

And before buying raw vintage in supposedly NrMt or better, learn the tricks of the card doctors. A loupe to view the edges is a good start--they should re rough, not razor sharp, and not pinched at the corners. Also learn what the printing dot patterns should look like.

Happy hunting,

Larry