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#1
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I would break it with an auction house that would sell most of the cards individually.
That won't happen with the major auction houses but some of the legitimate smaller ones would be willing to break it. Obviously, they will most likely want to lot up the cards that have parts missing into a large lot but any complete cards that are authentic could be sold individually. With the unauthentic cards mentioned by others being some of the high dollar cards in the set, I don't think selling the group as a partial set makes sense from a value standpoint. There are too many very low grade cards based on your pictures if they represent the set overall. You should be able to get favorable seller fees of perhaps 0 with a smaller auction house because even in low grade, over 500 T206 cards have decent value. If you sell them on your own, I would grade the HOFERS that would grade 2 or above and probably the high dollar cards even if only 1 or authentic. Good luck with the near set. |
#2
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Quote:
__________________
Check out https://www.thecollectorconnection.com Always looking for consignments 717.327.8915 We sell your less expensive pre-war cards individually instead of in bulk lots to make YOU the most money possible! and Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/thecollectorconnectionauctions |
#3
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All that said.....
Auction house is probably your best bet. Especially with how prices are going, invest in the grading of your blue chip cards to maximize your payout.
That said, if you want to know where some of your cards are going, while making a lot of friends here on the board, open it up to the group, at least you'll know they are staying "in the family." That said that said, I'm only 55 cards away from finishing off my T206 set and would be happy to send my list over..... HA!! |
#4
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You have reached a point where you NEED a black light. You can find several options on Amazon, and have it in hand in 2 or 3 days. They are inexpensive.
If you send the cards to an auction house, you'll always wonder about the green Cobb, the Johnson portrait, and a few others. If any of them fluoresce when illuminated with a black light, then you will see that yourself, rather than trust others. A black light will cost you between about $8 and $28... and the results aren't iffy... You can shine uv light on one of those sheets in a dark room (doesn't have to be total darkness), the real cards will look dull, the reprints will blaze with purple light. Get a black light. Green Cobb isn't right. It'll either fluoresce, bright purple, or if it doesn't then it's the result of skinning real cards and putting pieces together. To me, from the pics, at least the front will fluoresce, and probably the back, too. |
#5
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Thanks
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#6
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I see multiple fakes in there. I don't think you necessarily need a black light. You need to study the cards and know what you are buying. I've held thousands and never used a blacklight.
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#7
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But he hasn't, and he does need a black light because of that lack of experience.
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#8
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Bingo. This is important on several levels, such as: spotting fakes; detecting alterations; handling the cards without causing damage; knowing how much to offer.
__________________
Eric Perry Currently collecting: T206 (132/524) 1956 Topps Baseball (190/342) "You can observe a lot by just watching." - Yogi Berra |
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