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Go Back Forums > Net54baseball Main Forum - WWII & Older Baseball Cards > Net54baseball Sports (Primarily) Vintage Memorabilia Forum incl. Game Used > Autograph Forum- Primarily Sports

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Old 01-21-2023, 05:09 PM
Jenx34 Jenx34 is offline
Ch.ris Jenk.ins
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Birmingham AL
Posts: 374
Default JSA Questions...

Have an opportunity to have some autos authenticated tomorrow by JSA at a show.

1. Are JSA's prices at shows higher than their standard, posted pricing?
2. For baseballs such as Mays, Ripken, Eddie Murray, Mattingly, Gary Carter, Frank Thomas, Prince Fielder, Mike Mussina, Don Sutton, etc... is it best just to get the basic authentication? Would they just place the sticker on the baseball itself?
3. Are balls that are somewhat faded but still readable worth getting authenticated? Would they still authenticate them? Sadly, more than not of my collection have faded over time. Some maybe 50% but still readable, some barely readable without squinting, and a couple like a Reggie Jackson that you can see under magnification, but to the naked eye the ball looks blank. My thinking is only looking at those I would consider between 50% - 100%.
4. Has anyone had JSA authenticate signatures on raw cards? I have a friend that has 4 Pee Wee Reese cards he had signed in person. A '56, . 57 & '58, I think. And a '52 Topps reprint.
5. I was given a Goudey Bob Feller Reprint that was signed. Would it be worth having the signature authenticated?
6. In 4 and 5 above, how would JSA deal with the sticker? Place on the back of the card? I wouldn't mind that on the reprints, but not sure I'd go for that on the authentic vintage Reese's.

Any other thoughts that might apply?
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Old 01-21-2023, 06:13 PM
WhatsNext WhatsNext is offline
Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 215

1. The prices should be the same.

2. Yes, stick with the basic authentication when possible. I would only use the full letter service for the most valuable autographs (Mantle, DiMaggio, Williams).

3. It depends on what you count as being “worth it”. If these balls are just going to stay in your collection, then I would say don’t authenticate them; you know they are real. If you’re trying to sell them, I think I would advise you still don’t get them authenticated. Heavily faded balls are likely not going to sell for much, so there’s no reason to spend money getting them certed.

4. JSA certifies raw cards by putting a sticker on the back of the card. Many people don’t mind this process, but personally I feel it ruins vintage cards, I would not get any vintage card authenticated by JSA. With reprints, do whatever you like.

5. Feller is very inexpensive autograph, I don’t see any reason to get it certified.
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