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  #1  
Old 02-08-2012, 06:37 AM
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smotan_02 smotan_02 is offline
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Default Pennant Questions

Im trying to learn all I can about vintage pennants before I move into that area. Part of the way I do that is by watching eBay for awhile. Also, Ive read all the history threads here on the board. My problem is that I cant tell a real from a fake just based on pictures, plus how do you assign the year of the pennant? Ive seen people diagnosis it here, but not sure how they did it.

I would appreciate any general comments from the seasoned pennant collectors here on the board.
Thanks!

These are examples about what I mean:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130642934998...#ht_500wt_1125

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330683914353...#ht_500wt_1125

http://www.ebay.com/itm/260950600677...#ht_500wt_1125

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190638082925...#ht_500wt_1125
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  #2  
Old 02-08-2012, 08:45 AM
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Leon Leon is offline
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Default can't help but

I can't help at spotting fake pennants too well but as for dating them, I don't think that will be extremely difficult on the ones that are from a bit later (post wwII). Many seem to coincide with an event which makes the dating of them fairly easy. If you really want to get into collecting them then putting your toes in the water with a few inexpensive, but certainly real ones, would help. I look at the sellers feedback and can get a feel, most of the times, if they are legit or not. Again, there will be those instances where good folks get fooled, but handling the most you can would certainly help. At least it does on the card side of the hobby. Maybe some others can chime in with a better idea.
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Old 02-08-2012, 09:37 AM
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Good post! The last one is a repro (which the seller discloses). Mitchell & Ness made a bunch of different ones, and that pennant definitely falls into that category. These originally came with a paper hang tag (sewn to the binding) which could simply be torn off and detached. Some unscrupulous sellers would detach the paper, and pawn these off as original. I have seen a few sell in the $400 - $500 range (to buyers who can't tell the difference). I have even seen a few turn up in auctions like Huggins & Scott and Legendary. To Legendary's credit, they removed the pennant after I notified them it was a repro.

The biggest tell-tale sign is that the graphics are not painted on. They have more of a "raised velvet" technology. They look nice, but are never original. The painted graphics should be hard to the touch... not soft. Please note that these Mitchell & Ness Pennants were not originally made to deceive. It's the dishonest re-sellers that have done that.

There are other reproductions that DO have painted graphics. After time, you just learn what's right and what's not. They just cannot replicate the old ones 100%. Plus the felt is different on the reproductions. I don't have time to write any more now... you just have to learn as you go. Forums like this are great for asking questions (just as you did). And you can slowly build a knowledge base from that. Spotting reproduced pennants actually becomes an instant and routine procedure, once you've got about 6 months of experience under your belt.

Best of luck... it's a wonderful and under-rated (IMO) segment of the hobby!

Last edited by perezfan; 02-08-2012 at 09:43 AM.
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Old 02-09-2012, 06:26 AM
imacgreg imacgreg is offline
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Mike Egner's "Vintage Pennant Price Guide" is a good resource:
http://www.amazon.com/Vintage-Pennan.../dp/0557080053
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Old 02-09-2012, 08:01 AM
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Thanks for the replys so far. I have order the price guide as I couldnt see getting into this realm without having a qualified basis to stand on. I guess when it comes to real versus replica its just going to take time, experience, and more discussion. I think I'll buy from reputable guys and auction houses first to learn what I should be looking for before I venture into the abyss that is eBay.
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