1968 Nolan Ryan RC Fake or Cut Long?

[TXLeaguer]

I bought a Nolan Ryan RC not too long ago off of comc. It passes all the authenticator tests in my view. My only issue is that the card seems to be in between 1/16-1/8" long.

Have any of you heard of something like this for 1968 Topps?

[TXLeaguer]

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[thatguywithadot]

The card definitely is real though! it has the proper fills where it should and half toning elsewhere in atypical commercial precision for crisp detailed brilliant imagery!

[TXLeaguer]

Avery, Thank you for the detailed responses. The flatting/pancaking makes a lot of sense. I will take a pic of the back when I get home from work and I'll post it.

[thatguywithadot]

Not a problem my man! That is what this forum is hear for and what the core collective community is all about. I could tell you bluntly no but that falls into that whole teach a man to fish mantra and i choose to live by that!

I created a thread for the 1968 Topps Milton Bradley Nolan Ryan fake identification freshly after replying to your post earlier and theres lots of detailed breakdown you may or may not know or just need a reminder to pay attention too! i will finish uploading pics and examples for contrast when i get to it soon i am just juggling my store and couple kids and a ticking sleep time bomb on my end lol

anybody feel free to chime in and let him know what you know! i am just a freshly 30 year old whose studied and handled a ton of cards and studies in our field that are pertinent but an old timer may very well have a different view on these things or refute something i am saying and we want to hear that for balance and discussion!

[TXLeaguer]

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[TXLeaguer]

Originally Posted by thatguywithadot

Not a problem my man! That is what this forum is hear for and what the core collective community is all about. I could tell you bluntly no but that falls into that whole teach a man to fish mantra and i choose to live by that!

I created a thread for the 1968 Topps Milton Bradley Nolan Ryan fake identification freshly after replying to your post earlier and theres lots of detailed breakdown you may or may not know or just need a reminder to pay attention too! i will finish uploading pics and examples for contrast when i get to it soon i am just juggling my store and couple kids and a ticking sleep time bomb on my end lol

anybody feel free to chime in and let him know what you know! i am just a freshly 30 year old whose studied and handled a ton of cards and studies in our field that are pertinent but an old timer may very well have a different view on these things or refute something i am saying and we want to hear that for balance and discussion!

Just read the MB Thread. Bravo sir. I have 60x loupe that I use and a black light.

[thatguywithadot]

Originally Posted by TXLeaguer

I bought a Nolan Ryan RC not too long ago off of comc. It passes all the authenticator tests in my view. My only issue is that the card seems to be in between 1/16-1/8" long.

Have any of you heard of something like this for 1968 Topps?

Not that egregious however i can make out elevation changes at the corner spots on your card that indicate pancaking which could be do to pressing or long term screwdown although in my experience pressing is the culprit for a card like this that looks like it is ABSOLUTELY the wrong shape period.

If you trace the edges with your eyes you will be able to see that fattest portion at the middle edge and it should go super thin at the corners to the point it may or may not measure .001-.004 mm with machined caliper if measured ( I do not recommend this!!!!!) you could damage your card as paper and sharp calipers are not a happy marriage! it could not even register if a corner is significantly frayed under scope as the fiber weave of the stock is no longer as dense as original by a large margin and pressing or the screwdown situations will make a paper thin corner as a result!

Atypical card thickness for same same only different brands and sports through the years from 60s on on paper issues has been between .016-.019 inches and this applies to topps fleer and donruss and upper deck etc. there are always a few anomalies in my documentation but they are quirky designs to begin with or chrome cards, uv coated, etc. or anything other than the run of the mill cheap glossed layered paper productions that have anchored the card collecting community!

If you do happen to do as instructed and trace the edges with your eyes and see that it thins out at the corner you should have no problem refunding that as i am sure they did not advertise it as altered stock which is what it will get. If it is just a minor change its not a killer completely but again depends on what you paid and its true provenance as if that crease which appears to be pressed down through the middle really is you have no recourse other than the hail mary BVG but things have tightened up across the landscape with these companies due to their internal QC issues!

[thatguywithadot]

post a pic of the backside if you can also as the matte backs of the cards can make it easier to see the elevation changes from pressing or corner smashing due to no gloss and relaying as good as good is gonna get for identifying shadows in minute form to see elevation changes and then interpret accordingly as to whether or not its warping or in your case clearly to me pressing intentionally to reduce that crease and pancaking the corners as a result!

[thatguywithadot]

some of us have completely different approaches to how we process and view cards fundamentally and methodologically and therein lies the beauty of our collective hobby! Plenty of different lanes for us to operate and find domicile in and be able to connect with one another. Definitely was not trying to cause any paranoia or distaste as much as make sure his investment is protected simply put.

[steve B]

.001mm is only 0.00003937 inch. Of course it can be measured, but not using any typical handheld caliper. Just handling it would change the size enough to put it off.
And you'd usually specify what temperature the measurement was taken at.

Now if it's .001 inches, that's a different matter entirely. That can be done reliably with a $40 caliper by nearly anyone.

[jchcollins]

Even if it's not pressed, cards of that era coming out of the pack a bit large or small is not unheard of. I've had multiple 50's and 60's cards over the past few years that will not quite fit into a One Touch holder because they are slightly too large.

[thatguywithadot]

+++ temperature and humidity of course matter...wish someone would let our friends at PSA get a briefing of environmental impact of humidity changes through the years a card being exposed to can change the overall size in minute fractional amounts...-_-

Absolutely right though Steve. Its just a rough ballpark as i stated the measurement zonage to define a loose area i have observed. Anything outside that area doesnt mean pressed or bad but its a good baseline ive measured way too many times for reference.

For the sake of correction i did typo the mm in the first paragraph but if you read the entire posting it is in measurement for thickness in inches LOL My bad tho gotta recheck my typing as i go fast and mind is running a mile a minute with everything i am always doing. Apologies for any confusion

[thatguywithadot]

We were definitely miscommunicating there off my own end as i was talking about the measurement in inches as i referred him to that originally. I did read to see i put mm in the first part of my post but did label inches afterward. Bonehead typo but could always read the entirety of the posting too to help a knucklehead out lol