Trading with Dealers at Card Shows?

[oldschool73]

Hi!

I will be attending the Burbank show in Ontario CA this week. It my first card show in 35yrs!

Im only into pre 1975 vintage baseball and my objectives are upgrading a few cards from a few sets AND picking up some other HOFers.

Briefly, whats the best way to approach a trade with a dealer?
What should I expect in terms of value of my cards in a trade?
What "book" values are most commonly used?
Any specific signs to recognize in dealers dealing a trade fairly?...not so fairly?

Any and all advice appreciated.

-os73

[Vintagedeputy]

1) Ask the dealer if they trade.
2) Tell them what card you’re interested in and what you have to offer and trade.

It’s really that simple. I personally don’t get involved in book values, or comps or anything like that although others probably will. When I’m trading, I decide “do I like your card better than I like my card”? I couldn’t care less what some book or website says the value of either is; it’s really just a matter of what I like better and if I’m willing to give up what I have to obtain what you have. I’m trading cards, not my $50 bill for your two $20’s and a $10. That’s how I trade. YMMV.

[sonnyu2]

Briefly, whats the best way to approach a trade with a dealer?
Ask if the dealer is willing to trade. Some will, some won't. Trading is cumbersome and many dealers will decline unless you have something they really want.

What should I expect in terms of value of my cards in a trade?
Really depends on what cards they are and their value. The more desirable and valuable a card is, the more you will get in trade value. If it is common lower-value stuff you may not get much value and/or interest in a trade.

What "book" values are most commonly used?
There are not many dealers that use book values these days. Majority will go by recent comps of actual sales.

Any specific signs to recognize in dealers dealing a trade fairly?...not so fairly?
No way of knowing until you attempt a trade. Trading is a two-way street. Just don't agree to trade if the terms don't seem fair to you.

Biggest advice is to come prepared with what you value your cards at. That will help save a ton of time when negotiating a trade.

[Vintagedeputy]

Originally Posted by sonnyu2

Biggest advice is to come prepared with what you value your cards at. That will help save a ton of time when negotiating a trade.

Love this.

[brunswickreeves]

A dealer’s primary objective is to make money, not collect cards they never intend to liquidate (or else they’d be a collector). Thus they may want to take two bites of the apple, depending on how bad you want the card they have and how rare or valuable it is. They may take your card(s) in trade at 60-90% of VCP comps, so they can turn it around and sell for profit even in a down market or if they need to hold it for a period of time. They may also over value their card to maximize its return. Just be prepared for it not to be an equitable deal if you’re trading cardboard for cardboard, vs cash for cardboard. The deal ultimately depends on many factors just try to find as common ground as possible and enjoy the process.

[Exhibitman]

Come by table 634 and say hello; I'll be there with a ton of set-building and singles inventory.

I always want to trade. In terms of what to expect, it is all about what you have and what you want. Book value is secondary to demand for the items you are selling. I have significant expenses and I am trying to earn a profit. That means that when it comes to how I assess your cards, what your cards are worth is less critical than how readily they sell. If you have a PSA 9 1987 Fleer Jordan for trade and you want a stack of lesser cards and commons, I will essentially offer you the full retail value as a trade value with my cards because I can turn the Jordan quickly and I have profit baked into the price of my cards. Conversely, if you want a PSA 9 1987 Jordan and you are offering 1970s commons for it, I won't make the deal except at an extreme advantage for me because it will take me a whole lot of time and effort to liquidate the commons and I am giving up a readily sold high demand card. Another factor is how I price examples of your cards. Your card may 'book' at $10 but if it is common and I am already selling three of them at $5 and they aren't moving, my valuation is going to be about fifty cents or a buck at most.

[Andrew1975]

I traded for this E121 Ruth at the Philly Show. I gave up five cards (1951 Bowman Mays, 1957 Topps Bill Russell, M101-5 Honus Wagner [blank back], 1957 Topps Sandy Koufax, and 1921 Exhibits Walter Johnson), plus some cash. I am very pleased with the trade and believe that the dealer was very fair with the values he assigned to my cards. Could I have gotten more for them if I had sold them myself? Probably, a little more, but there would likely be fees/expenses associated with that also. I think from his perspective, he will be able to move the five cards he received, easier than the Ruth, and as a larger dealer, probably has the ability to make a little more on them than I could. I guess it worked out for both of us.




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[Exhibitman]

Really nice card.

[Kutcher55]

I have had some success making surprisingly fair trades with a dealer at a nearby monthly card show. The guy generally pays 80-90% range and his trades are even closer to market. If you factor in the ability to offload cards safely without having to deal with shipping costs and risks, it has worked out really nicely. Selling cards isn't always super easy. The best and easiest way is eBay but you are only getting 85% that way and so an in-person show transaction for similar value can work out well. Plus it is fun. It doesn't hurt that the dealer is a cool guy with fair prices and tons of good vintage inventory.

Also, a lot of dealers don't really look beyond card / grade / VCP, so it's possible to offload below-average cards for the assigned grade and get the market value, minus whatever discount the dealer assesses. This has enabled me to trade cards that are weak for the grade in exchange for examples that are strong.