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Old 06-23-2021, 12:03 PM
YazFenway08 YazFenway08 is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 529
Default The "technical" aspect of creasing in grading....

hello all. Looking for some opinions/guidance, as I have very limited grading experience. I have gotten much better at evaluating centering, corners/edges and surface wear...but but the proper assignment of creasing into a final grade still eludes me.

Pictured are 8 cards that I am considering sending to SGC for evaluation...SGC primarily because at $30, given their poor condition and relative "value", it seems somewhat balanced.

7 of the 8 cards have very heavy creasing, but otherwise exhibit pretty normal wear/rouding/etc for a lower grade card...the exception is the '34 Foxx which is actually pretty nice in hand except for the pencilled initials on the front....it is presented here as a comparison tool for the other 7 cards.

I personally don't like creases but I readily acknowledge that many collectors have less aversion. I have tried to educate myself on grading standards from the various TPGs and auction/sales histories, but frankly once you get below a "3" it seems widely variable and hugely subjective...nothing groundbreaking in that statement...all "1" are not created equal.

so, my questions:

(1) how bad does a card need to be creased for it to fall over the edge from a "1" to only an "A"? It seems that the criteria for a "1" allows for it to be missing actual pieces of the card...so would a TPG really only assign an "A" to something that had been altered?

(2) It seems that "creasing" is a prevalent grading aspect of "2s", "1.5s" and "1s"...but what is the actual "weighting" or sliding scale?. Meaning, for example, the '33 Bengough is basically creased into quarters, the Ruffing and '34 Dean have multiple creases that affect their visages...while the creases on the '33 foxx, Gomez, Ruffing and Grove are prevalent but don't really affect the "picture"/eye appeal nearly as much...at least to my eye. Does that translate to the formers being "1"s and the latter "1.5"s and "2"s?

(3) Even if the '34 Foxx is a "2(mk)" and all the rest are just "1"s, am I crazy for even wanting to grade these? My thinking was this...based on some sales/auction histories of "1"s, a couple of these cards could still be worth a couple hundred bucks...making it easier to perhaps swap toward that mid-grade Diamond Star Lefty Grove i still covet...raw just seems like a bad bet on these and I am anything but a grading evangelist.

I know that was quite the ramble...Thanks in advance for any opinions

Mike
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