Starting a Vintage Collection

[pawpawdiv9]

Hehehe...another Mantle collector here.
Yeah man..pinpoint exactly what you want to collect. Make a list or get a master list from a registry.
I been trying to stick with just the cards itself..i myself have jumped back n forth. I do have some nice football cards too.
I talk a bit with the fellow above me ^^^^^Bestdj777. We share common interest.
Oh.bTW the HR Derby card has 1 day left ...it may fetch under 1K. I guess i was close, in assuming that just a guy has a BIN for 3K, doesnt mean its worth that. Trust me..i bidded on it several time..had it for like 1 minute and outbidded again.
That 53 stalh meyer....jumped the moon last night...probably some shilling there.

That bring to topic....shilling.
If you are buying from Ebay....check the bids and look at the other bidders and see of any strange activing and retractions.
I like Probstein123...but some case it raises a eyebrow.
Just like beforementioned....look at the 'completed listings' and see what previous ones sold for. In the search for mantles...beware of reprints.

If you have any questions..just ask around.

[Bestdj777]

Chris (above) and some of the others are great to chat with about these things. One of the best things about the hobby is discussing cards with fellow collectors.

One thing I recently learned that I found pretty helpful is the difference between the US eBay website and the Canadian one (eBay.ca). The US website will no longer allow you to view the price a card sold for when a seller accepted a best offer. All the completed listing says is that a best offer was accepted. However, you can replace the .com with .ca in the URL to link to the Canadian sight where it provides actual pricing information. Please note though that the price accepted is not always the actual value of the card (I know I have over paid before for a card I really wanted).

[CamaroDMD]

That is interesting about the .ca thing on eBay. I have never tried that. I will use that from not on...very handy for trying to ascertain sold prices.

I am currently trying to compile a list of the cards that I want in my collection. Both a general list and a Mantle list. I think my long term collecting goal will be a Mantle set...but I don't know how deep I will do. I might just try and stick with the mainstream Topps and Bowman issues. But, who knows.

I have been in discussions with a seller on eBay for a 1957 Topps Mantle PSA 4 and I just purchased it. I might have overpaid a bit...but the card has wonderful centering and that is a big thing for me. Compared to other PSA 4s I have seen in the past, this card really passes the eye test...at least based on the auction photos. It's the first decent Mantle I have purchased (the only other I own is a 1960 Mantle/Boyer that I got for $15 years ago because it is SO beat up).

[Bestdj777]

Originally Posted by CamaroDMD

That is interesting about the .ca thing on eBay. I have never tried that. I will use that from not on...very handy for trying to ascertain sold prices.

I am currently trying to compile a list of the cards that I want in my collection. Both a general list and a Mantle list. I think my long term collecting goal will be a Mantle set...but I don't know how deep I will do. I might just try and stick with the mainstream Topps and Bowman issues. But, who knows.

I have been in discussions with a seller on eBay for a 1957 Topps Mantle PSA 4 and I just purchased it. I might have overpaid a bit...but the card has wonderful centering and that is a big thing for me. Compared to other PSA 4s I have seen in the past, this card really passes the eye test...at least based on the auction photos. It's the first decent Mantle I have purchased (the only other I own is a 1960 Mantle/Boyer that I got for $15 years ago because it is SO beat up).

Congratulations on the pickup! The 57 is a beautiful card as is the 1960 Mantle/Boyer. For a while, the 1960 was my favorite card in my collection. My first was incredibly beat up as well. It had clearly been placed in bike spokes and had a massive crease right down the middle as a result. Despite picking up a cleaner copy, that is one I doubt I will ever get rid of.

Mainstream Topps and Bowman cards are a great way to go. That is how I started my collection then gradually added Topps inserts, Exhibits, Post Cereal, OPC, and Topps Venezuelans as I completed my other subsets. Collecting Mantles is a fun but addicting hobby.

If you are looking for a good checklist, the PSA Master Set registry is pretty comprehensive. They are only missing a couple Topps cards (Push Pull, two posters, a checklist variation, and the 52 Topps variation).

[brian1961]

Just curious, pawpawdiv9, but you said a '53 Stahl-Meyer Mickey Mantle jumped the moon last night. Where? EBay? How much did that gorgeous card go for?



My advice to you CamaroDMD is to NOT buy anything Mickey Mantle right now. Your emotions are strong. You want to be the boy with a blunderbuss. Cool it.

Instead, romance the Mickey Mantle cards--period mainstream (cards and coins,etc. issued during Mickey's playing career, including 1969, since Topps went ahead with any already planned uses for Mantle), period regional/food, test issues, post career. LEARN as much as you can BEFORE YOU START SPENDING YOUR MONEY. LEARN what was ever made, and get a good look at pictures of those cards.

You want to buy graded. That is a good thing for any period except post career probably. Personally, I would want at least a PSA5 - SGC 60 EXCELLENT condition. There are exceptions. There always seems to be exceptions. The category of regional/food issues and Topps test issues is an exception because they tend to be more scarce and have condition sensitivity that's either off the charts or blows the roof off. Example--someone mentioned Stahl-Meyer Franks Mickey Mantle. I personally believe LOW high-grade commences with PSA2 GOOD. The manner in which the card was issued for the most part is responsible for Stahl-Meyers grading so low. Collectors are really beginning to understand this, and with its dynamite photo, they want reasons to justify spending thousands for a card that typically looks like the inside of a goat's stomach. The story behind these cards is marvelous--that is one of the major draws of the regional/food issues--their story.

Buying mainstream is a great idea. You are wise to choose specimens with choice centering. Be picky. Be very picky!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! However, know what is typical for the issue. The other aspect I believe you should strive for is a superb picture registry. Cards out of focus is a big turnoff. I do not care how important of an issue it is you buy. If the card's photo is fuzzy, in time you will hate it, and it will be tough to unload because there's a lot of collectors like me--they want that nice picture quality.

This brings us back to buying quality, at least EXCELLENT. If possible, buy something that had a problem that reduced it to excellent but is not an eyesore to you. Of course, centered cards are something the reputable card authenticators really appreciate, and they reward it accordingly.

Whatever you do, if you want Mantle, collect what you can honestly afford and which images really move you. Collector/investor Marshal Fogel made a really good point at a seminar about regarding cards as art. The picture the manufacturer chooses is crucial, as is the card design. As you are aware, there were a lot of cards made of Mickey Mantle. Many were good, some were outstanding, and a few downright stunk. Unless you wish to follow what the general consensus is for Mantle cards, decide for yourself. Sure, I could express to you the general consensus, but that I suspect you already know. I could tell you my favorite Topps and Bowmans, but what good is that?

Related to the above, many fabulous post-career cards were made of Mick. They are not worth much, but so what? Unless, of course, you rate future potential value as a major motivating factor for yourself. Remember, those post-career cards are not vintage period cards, but their photo is. A good-looking card is a good-looking card, unless you feel you are throwing your money away on worthless cards because they have no upside potential. I cannot afford what I want, so I personally went with Mickey Mantle's post career cards, but I was very choosy. Let all who wish laugh their heads off at me for saying these things. In these times, more people need a good laugh. If I make you laugh over the idea of collecting modern Mickey, I hope it lifts up your day. But, I am happy with the modern Mantles I have chosen. They have given me lots of fattening eye candy to go with what Mantles I still have from my years when I did collect period Mantle.


What exactly are your goals and why?

How important are bragging rights, impressing your fellow hobbyists, and if it is important, convincing your wife (if you are married) that what you are buying is somewhat of an investment.

Is it a hobby, or an investment? Must be both at the prices the vintage cards cost. It MUST please you and give you personal satisfaction.

I hope this was helpful, as it probably took a long time to read!

Cheers. Wish you the very best. Happy researching, and then happy hunting! ------------Brian Powell

[pawpawdiv9]

some nice points made ^^^^^.
Before spending...look at the card registry..There be tons of Mantles stuff.
It not cheap either....i compiled a good bunch..mostly graded 3-6 range.
Pending how much $$ you want to invest.
If i had to start over again..i would only go after the most desired ones or rare/scarce ones. Many of us will never be able to afford the 52 topps #311.
Before i started..i looked into the vintage cards..the idea of owning Cobb,Ruth,Dimaggio,Wagner,mattheson...and so on...
For someone on a budget, you can pick up some nice pieces.

BTW- the 53 Stalh-Meyer sold last night on EBAY by Probstein123 for 1,584.00
It stated the VCP value was 1,997...not sure if thats true?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360643510357...84.m1435.l2649

He also has that SCARCE HR DERBY ending today.....for those with deep pockets. Personally think its overvalued compared to the RARE Wheaties.

[the 'stache]

Originally Posted by Bestdj777

Chris (above) and some of the others are great to chat with about these things. One of the best things about the hobby is discussing cards with fellow collectors.

One thing I recently learned that I found pretty helpful is the difference between the US eBay website and the Canadian one (eBay.ca). The US website will no longer allow you to view the price a card sold for when a seller accepted a best offer. All the completed listing says is that a best offer was accepted. However, you can replace the .com with .ca in the URL to link to the Canadian sight where it provides actual pricing information. Please note though that the price accepted is not always the actual value of the card (I know I have over paid before for a card I really wanted).

Wow, I just learned something new. Thank you, Chris!