Cobb Grading Question

[tiger8mush]

IMO, if the card gets a low grade (or Authentic), I think it would sell for a similar price whether PSA or BVG. The higher the grade, the more it'll likely sell for in a PSA holder as PSA's registry attracts higher grade collectors.

On a side note, if you wanted the protection of a holder, I'd go with BVG. The inner plastic sleeve does a MUCH better job of protecting the card from movement and the outer shell is thicker. Of course asthetically the thicker case is considered less appealing so ... to each his own.

Good luck, its a beautiful card!
Rob

[Leon]

Originally Posted by tiger8mush

IMO, if the card gets a low grade (or Authentic), I think it would sell for a similar price whether PSA or BVG. The higher the grade, the more it'll likely sell for in a PSA holder as PSA's registry attracts higher grade collectors.

On a side note, if you wanted the protection of a holder, I'd go with BVG. The inner plastic sleeve does a MUCH better job of protecting the card from movement and the outer shell is thicker. Of course asthetically the thicker case is considered less appealing so ... to each his own.

Good luck, its a beautiful card!
Rob

+1. If I had to choose, registry aside, to buy a high grade card and it were to be in a PSA holder or BVG holder, I would pick BVG all day long and twice on Sunday. I am biased but, that or not, I think they have better quality control. I don't dislike PSA, I just think BVG does a better job..where pre-war vintage is concerned. This card is not going to be high enough grade for the registry to come into play either. Just my 2 cents....

[deken]

I have looked closely at the spot on the back by the "c" in cigarettes. It doesn't appear to be paper loss but more of just a break in the red line. Is there a way to tell for sure?

Thanks

[Jaybird]

Originally Posted by deken

I have looked closely at the spot on the back by the "c" in cigarettes. It doesn't appear to be paper loss but more of just a break in the red line. Is there a way to tell for sure?

Thanks

If you have a loop, you can usually see with 10X power if the surface is the same as surrounding surface or has a little divot from paper loss. Naked eye is sometimes difficult to tell. Even a magnifying glass could probably give you what you need.

[mwilliams]

No disrespect whatsoever, but are you 100% sure the card is real? Something about the front scan looks funky to me. Just my gut feeling...and yes, I slept at a Holiday Inn last night

Mike

[sycks22]

CSA would grade it a 9 Nice card. I'd go with SGC though (not an option, but I think the best option)

[chaddurbin]

Originally Posted by mwilliams

No disrespect whatsoever, but are you 100% sure the card is real? Something about the front scan looks funky to me. Just my gut feeling...and yes, I slept at a Holiday Inn last night

Mike

i see what mike is talking about, the color is kinda washed out but i think that's just the scan. the back you can loupe to see if it's paper loss or print break. should be fairly easy to tell on a mark that big. otherwise it's a strong card and i don't think it's trimmed at all.

i will be at the long beach show, if you need a self-appointed prewar expert (me) to look it over i will gladly do so before you submit it.

[deken]

Thanks again for all of the feedback, and I don't take any comments personally, I appreciate the feedback. I am pretty sure the card is real (I have other T206's and this looks no different), but we will see.
I will be at the LB show Thursday afternoon, so would like your input (chad) if you are going to be there.