Approaching the 1952 Topps Set

[Brianruns10]

Originally Posted by CamaroDMD

OK, that's what I thought. Thanks for the info.

Next question, why did the first series have red or black backs? Was there a reason for the difference and why did they only have red starting with the second series?

Good question! Others here may know a definitive answer. There may have been some technical reasons for the switch, but I personally think it comes down to this being the first series of what was a pretty new experiment for Topps, doing large size, full color issues. The first series was something of a trial and error approach to the rest of the issues, which you really start to see as the whole set evolves. I think they realized the black back design just wasn't very attractive, and the two color red back was more attractive.

In fact, you'll discover quite a few changes made. In general, the portrait's color and vibrancy were improved for the red backs; the black backs tend to be more muted and pastel-like in their quality. And of course there is the (in)famous switched bios for the Sain and Page issues. They were definitely figuring things out, and were improving with each new series in the set. The portraits get better, they widened the white borders and enlarged the typeface of the player's name in the autograph box, and made a few other minor tweaks.

Study the cards enough, and you'll soon be able to identify the series by the portrait style. Series 1 are very watecolor, pastel-like in quality, and by the sixth series (the most beautiful in the set, and I think the greatest in all collecting) the portraits become really vibrant, almost impressionistic with fine detailing. It's really something to see how fast they master the craft, and go from being novices to masters by card 407

[Zach Wheat]

For the '52 Topps, the first time Series #1 (1-80) was printed, they used black ink. Each subsequent printing of the 1st series and each successive series thereafter was printed in both red and black ink.

ZWheat

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

While building other sets, like the '53 Topps, I usually buy raw commons and save money to apply to the star cards. The commons are nice and would be gradable if I so chose most of the time. I devote most of the money spent on sets to the stars. I buy the star cards graded from reputable sellers. Is this a smart approach for '52?? Specifically, I am referring to the high #s. Are these safe to buy raw in VGEX-EX, or do I need to treat them like star cards?

[Brianruns10]

Originally Posted by vintagebaseballcardguy

While building other sets, like the '53 Topps, I usually buy raw commons and save money to apply to the star cards. The commons are nice and would be gradable if I so chose most of the time. I devote most of the money spent on sets to the stars. I buy the star cards graded from reputable sellers. Is this a smart approach for '52?? Specifically, I am referring to the high #s. Are these safe to buy raw in VGEX-EX, or do I need to treat them like star cards?

What it comes down to is eye appeal. Even cards in poor condition can still be nice, while cards in relatively high grades awfully ugly.

I think that's a safe grade range. The highs are a pretty safe buy in just about any grade, just focus on getting ones with honest wear, but are problem free. Stuff with holes, or creases through the middle, are junk in my opinion.

But if I had to just give one piece of advice, it'd be to buy nicely centered cards. Even low grade cards, if they're nicely centered, can resell well, and hold their value nicely. And i think it gives a nice challenge. It is really no trick to build the 52 set if you've got no scruples and just want to build a set. Even the high numbers can be had fairly afford-ably if you buy junk beaters. But it takes a little more time and effort to find centered copies. But you'll be proud when you look at those cards all lined up.

[Zach Wheat]

Originally Posted by vintagebaseballcardguy

While building other sets, like the '53 Topps, I usually buy raw commons and save money to apply to the star cards. The commons are nice and would be gradable if I so chose most of the time. I devote most of the money spent on sets to the stars. I buy the star cards graded from reputable sellers. Is this a smart approach for '52?? Specifically, I am referring to the high #s. Are these safe to buy raw in VGEX-EX, or do I need to treat them like star cards?

Ii think this is a good strategy and you should be fine. One of the issues you should pay particular attention to is buying cards that are trimmed. It is difficult to tell with raw cards without having them in hand.

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

Thank for the input, guys. That is what I have done with the 53 set. I have largely avoided creases, wrinkles, stains, holes, markings, etc. I have learned to live with honest wear. I am in the process of upgrading a few 53s that didn't measure up. I do have a couple that need to be replaced due to centering. It's funny what a learning process it becomes as you build a vintage set over a few years! Centering wasn't something I thought a lot about a few years ago, but now I pass on cards all the time because of it. Brian is right when he says that centering can help compensate for other problems a card has. I plan on being done (again) with that soon and turning my full focus to 52 Topps. Even with a set as pricey as 52, I will not buy junk. At least for me, that defeats the purpose. Much like I did with 53, I will try to stay in the mid-grade range. Zach made a point that I have thought about also: trimmed high #s. I will never be able to buy them in person where I live. I suppose I am ok with buying them online as long as I know the seller and they have a refund policy in case they don't "measure up."

I have tried to ignore the impulse to go after this set, but I can't quit looking at them! We have a great hobby.

[Brianruns10]

Another bit of advice: stay consistent. The greater challenge of building a set is uniformity of quality. It's the selection process. It's not collecting when you just buy willy nilly to fill holes...that's just accumulating. And I always cringe when I see a set offered for sale on ebay or elsewhere that is just all over the map, ranging from nicely centered, PSA 6-7s, to raw beaters. Or I hate seeing a set that's all PSA 6s, and then has a star card that is a 1 and looks like a 0.

Before you start, you should figure out what grade range is realistic for your budget, and stick to it. Avoid getting cards that fall below it, and (this is harder) avoid cards that fall ABOVE it.

My 52 topps set is a median PSA 6 set. I'll dip to a 5 in the case of a star card or a high number, and for the commons I'll go up to a 7. I have a couple of 7.5s, but that was only because the price was too good. I have only one 8 in the set and that's because I raw card I bought nabbed the grade. I've never bought an 8, not because I couldn't have done it, but because it just wouldn't fit right now with the set I'm building. Eventually I'll start upgrading cards, but for the time being, I'm concerned with building a set of uniform quality, and with an emphasis on centering and original quality - gloss, unfaded colors, sharp color registration.

[ALR-bishop]

...and stay focused...on something

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

Originally Posted by Brianruns10

Another bit of advice: stay consistent. The greater challenge of building a set is uniformity of quality. It's the selection process. It's not collecting when you just buy willy nilly to fill holes...that's just accumulating. And I always cringe when I see a set offered for sale on ebay or elsewhere that is just all over the map, ranging from nicely centered, PSA 6-7s, to raw beaters. Or I hate seeing a set that's all PSA 6s, and then has a star card that is a 1 and looks like a 0.

Before you start, you should figure out what grade range is realistic for your budget, and stick to it. Avoid getting cards that fall below it, and (this is harder) avoid cards that fall ABOVE it.

My 52 topps set is a median PSA 6 set. I'll dip to a 5 in the case of a star card or a high number, and for the commons I'll go up to a 7. I have a couple of 7.5s, but that was only because the price was too good. I have only one 8 in the set and that's because I raw card I bought nabbed the grade. I've never bought an 8, not because I couldn't have done it, but because it just wouldn't fit right now with the set I'm building. Eventually I'll start upgrading cards, but for the time being, I'm concerned with building a set of uniform quality, and with an emphasis on centering and original quality - gloss, unfaded colors, sharp color registration.

I hear you loud and clear and agree. This is something I have thought about in regard to dealing with this set. For the most part, I would like to stay in the same 4-6.5 range I did with '53. This would go for the raw commons I would buy as well...no beaters!! I would like to do it in higher grade, but that's probably my limit. Mostly raw commons, graded stars...

I guess I struggle with patience and have to be mindful of that and not make bad decisions and create inconsistencies within the sets. I truly appreciate the insight you all offer.

[CamaroDMD]

Originally Posted by Brianruns10

Another bit of advice: stay consistent. The greater challenge of building a set is uniformity of quality. It's the selection process. It's not collecting when you just buy willy nilly to fill holes...that's just accumulating. And I always cringe when I see a set offered for sale on ebay or elsewhere that is just all over the map, ranging from nicely centered, PSA 6-7s, to raw beaters. Or I hate seeing a set that's all PSA 6s, and then has a star card that is a 1 and looks like a 0.

Before you start, you should figure out what grade range is realistic for your budget, and stick to it. Avoid getting cards that fall below it, and (this is harder) avoid cards that fall ABOVE it.

My 52 topps set is a median PSA 6 set. I'll dip to a 5 in the case of a star card or a high number, and for the commons I'll go up to a 7. I have a couple of 7.5s, but that was only because the price was too good. I have only one 8 in the set and that's because I raw card I bought nabbed the grade. I've never bought an 8, not because I couldn't have done it, but because it just wouldn't fit right now with the set I'm building. Eventually I'll start upgrading cards, but for the time being, I'm concerned with building a set of uniform quality, and with an emphasis on centering and original quality - gloss, unfaded colors, sharp color registration.

I think this is great advice and sort of what I was thinking when I first started thinking about this project. To me "eye appeal" is far more important than grade. I want good centering and nice color. I'm shooting for the 4-6 grade range (but if I find a 7 at the right price I will jump on it though). But, no beaters. I would rather save and search for the right piece. I would rather find a nicely centered 4 than an off center 6. I have picked up a couple commons at this point with this in mind.

Here is an example of one of the commons I have picked up. I think the centering is very nice on this card...and the color is still quite vivid. There are some marks on it...but I think it has a nice look. Definitely some hard hits on the corners, but no wrinkling or creasing into the card itself. This is the kind of card I am looking for or a little better.