Set collectors: which school of thought do you subscribe to?

BradH · #1 11-24-2013, 07:25 AM

For me, a large set such as T206 has always been about quantity over quality. As long as a card is centered, I'm usually happy to add it to my set. I don't mind creases or even some back damage. I also have no preference on the back brand for this set. I'll make upgrades along the way, but generally I'm not too concerned about having some P-F cards in the set.

For smaller sets, such as '33 DeLong, '55 Topps hockey or '55 Topps All-American football, I took my time and went for quality because the small set size made it possible to be more discerning.

Also, I buy mostly raw and I crack almost all my graded cards from their slabs. I get buying TPG cards and understand that it adds some security (especially if you're buying mostly over the Internet), but I've saved lots of money over the years simply by educating myself and understanding the cards I'm seeking. For some of the more expensive cards I've purchased that were graded ('33 DeLong Gehrig or '55 Topps Gordie Howe, for example), I will usually leave them slabbed in case I ever need to liquidate them quickly.

Just my two cents.

rainier2004 · #2 11-24-2013, 07:48 AM

Great answers already mentioned above. I would reiterate collect what you like. I have been a set collector my whole life and have learned some things. Decide what condition is acceptable to you while considering the priciest cards in that grade range ( did you see the price of the psa 3 Magie in LOTG?). I like uniformity in my sets, Ill sell the ex/nrmt cards if the set is gd/vg which is where I find myself a lot. I also think buying "place holders" is a waste of cash unless they are dirt cheap or a tough issue that demands it...I don't think t206s fall into that category as a general 520 set.

I collect raw as well, crack 'em out. So not to get on my soap box, but I always thought collecting a certain companies cards in a specific grade would be extremely limiting. The reasons have already been explained plus doesn't that feel restricting? Freedom is the ability to do as you please though so it may just my perspective.

kamikidEFFL · #3 11-24-2013, 08:09 AM

When building a set I put these guidelines to use.

1.My interest in the set--most important thing why else Build it

2.Research on the set--Tells me a lot. How many rare cards or difficulty of the set. How many are graded high or low. Money I will spend overall.

3.How many cards are in the set--Don't always like dealing with large sets with multiple variations. That's my own preference

4.Check on how many big $$$ cards are in the set--One reason I didn't build the 33 Goudey Set. 2 Ruth's and 2 Gehrig's= 2 much haha

5.What grade/condition of the set I want--Does eye appeal matter or is it i just want the set because i like the set. My 38 goudey set is PSA 1-3 just because i like the design of the cards. my 34 goudey set i want a nicer looking set so i buy psa 5+.

Those are my guidelines when building a set or before I get ready to build a set. If you can answer these questions above or a few of them that usually gives you an idea of where you want your set or collection to be. Eye appeal isn't always necessary to everyone. If your trying to invest and possibly down the line sell these the better the grade the better money you may get but again in this hobby you never know. Sometimes if there is a lower grade card but the money is right buy it and upgrade later. I hope this helps you. Best of luck on the set if you choose to tackle it.

wonkaticket · #4 11-24-2013, 08:40 AM

I tend to go for quality over qty and I'm always upgrading. But I tend to use this with anything I collect where I can. Now I will define that quality to me is the best looking card I can find not always the highest graded I have 4's that I replaced 6-7's in my set of T206s. It's about the overall look of the card and uniformity that makes a set for me.

Also I think you mean 4 Ruth's and 2 Gehrig's for the 1933 Goudey.

Cheers,

John

E93 · #5 11-24-2013, 09:38 AM

John,
Your set is absolutely stunning....and there is no doubt it will sell for a premium if you ever do sell it.

I am with John, with a set like T206, I go for overall eye-appeal and consistency throughout my set.
JimB

ullmandds · #6 11-24-2013, 09:43 AM

Historically...I was never a "vintage" set collector...I was always more of a type collector.

The first vintage set I completed was e90-2...a tiny tiny set of 10...took me about a year. I then went after E94...which has always been a favorite of mine.

For me...consistency of grade/eye appeal is most important, regardless of actual # grade. This can be especially challenging Esp with a set like e94 which is not readily available in any grade!

wonkaticket · #7 11-24-2013, 09:44 AM

Thanks Jim, that Bender & Davis are super nice. And that Matty wow!

ullmandds · #8 11-24-2013, 09:52 AM

That's a commonly employed tactic w/t206...going after the hof'ers/high buck cards first...as they will maintain their value so when you grow tired of throwing thousands of dollars at common players you could care less about and decide to let the monster beat you...you can resell and maybe even make $$$$!!!!!

3-2-count · #9 11-24-2013, 10:04 AM

John and Jim sensational cards, each and every one of them. Eye appeal over all else without doubt!! I would suggest tackling set collecting using this very same philosophy as well.
The slab should be looked upon as protection for the card only, not determining it's value.

the 'stache · #10 11-24-2013, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wonkaticket

Thanks Jim, that Bender & Davis are super nice. And that Matty wow!

+1. They certainly are!

Quote:

Originally Posted by ullmandds

That's a commonly employed tactic w/t206...going after the hof'ers/high buck cards first...as they will maintain their value so when you grow tired of throwing thousands of dollars at common players you could care less about and decide to let the monster beat you...you can resell and maybe even make $$$$!!!!!

I might take a break from the monster, but I don't think I'd ever sell unless I'm looking to upgrade, which I will with my Johnson portrait at some point in the near future. I really love the set, and if I can knock out the costly cards, I don't think buying a few commons a month along with the other cards I really want will be too tough on the old budget.

frankbmd · #11 11-24-2013, 10:07 AM

I like eye appeal just as much as John and JimB, but would add that a complete Monster is more frequently sold at Napa Auto Parts than in a Lamborghini show room. Therefore although uniformity presents nicely, I enjoy having many nice cards in my set and don't mind having a few stragglers as well. Like Wonka and others, I am continually upgrading at this point (at the 518 plateau) to improve the overall appeal of my set, but I do not foresee selling my EXMT examples for the sake of uniformity. Regardless of the condition level you select, if you shop patiently, you shouldn't lose. My set covers the condition gamut from Poor- to NM+, averaging VG+ currently. The advantage of having 518 VG+ cards matters not to me. My Cobbs are EX+, VGEX+, Fair and Authentic. I like them all and all will ultimately sell for more than I paid for them (but perhaps over my dead body

).

conor912 · #12 11-24-2013, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wonkaticket

I will define that quality to me is the best looking card I can find not always the highest graded I have 4's that I replaced 6-7's in my set of T206s. It's about the overall look of the card and uniformity that makes a set for me.

+1

I just replaced a ton of 5's with 4's, which is great because it frees up a nice chunk of cash. Quality is very often not defined by the grade.

At the end of the day, you should want the cards to be uniform, not the slabs.

T3s · #13 11-24-2013, 02:56 PM

Hi,
I think another aspect to keep in mind is how you acquire the cards. For instance, one by one on Ebay or BST, or in large lots from an auction house. Tactically speaking, you can generally get a decent value and fill a lot of holes in your set by finding a nice T206 lot in an auction house. Whatever duplicates you obtain can be sold, therefor reducing your cost basis on the lot. I can easily recall (as I'm sure many on the board can) buying a large lot, keeping a bunch of cards, then selling the dupes and cards I've upgraded for as much as I paid for the whole lot. Free cards!

Being a seller as well as a buyer is one of the keys to building a set quicker and cheaper. I've always been focused on building sets and have always used this strategy. It's also quite fun when the box arrives and you're able to go through stacks of cards. You can't keep them all, but it's cool and a valuable experience.

Hope that helps.

Happy Collecting,
Craig

drmondobueno · #14 11-24-2013, 02:58 PM

I started collecting again last year after a 25 year hiatus. And of course I started in on the monster. I began buying ungraded cards but found I was running into a number of issues- trimmed/altered cards, ooor presentation, etc. I also found my eyesight to be changing and insufficient to be discerning, so I went for graded cards and focused on the HOFers. Somewhere down the line I realized I also liked backstamped and beater cards, so I have a number of those in my set, personal preference. As my focus has expanded, I am settling for lower graded cards with nice presentation to finish the set. And the t201 set bit me. My focus there are higher graded cards; a much smaller set with more reasonable prices. Try getting an Sgc 84 Cobb bat off for 1500 bucks. This s a nice hobby, has displanted my other sickness of building bamboo rods in the winter...most of the time...

And the upgrading continues on the Monster, of course...

the 'stache · #15 11-24-2013, 09:44 AM

Some great input thus far, guys. I really appreciate it.

Part of my problem as a collector, and in life itself I guess, is that I over-analyze the hell out of everything. It's driven the women I've been with nuts. I guess that's why I'm talking about maybe having a wife and kids in the hypothetical.

Since I know the commons of the T206 aren't going to go up much in price, maybe I'll focus a little more on the Hall of Famers, stars and Southern leaguers now, and work on the commons a little more later.

John, those cards are gorgeous!

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