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#1
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Nine times out of ten, you will likely better from an investment standpoint if you go with the higher grade cards -- the Montana 9 over the Montana 8, for instance.
That said, for my money I would much rather have the Montana 8 (which will have fantastic eye appeal, pretty sharp corners, etc.) and take the extra money I saved from the 9 and buy rookies of Marino, Elway, and Favre. |
#2
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I buy just for my collection and do not sell at all, so I do not look at the grade, but more importantly, the card. Corners, centering, color, etc. You will see some 6's that look better than 7's and vice versa. Buy the card, not the grade.
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Building 50's sets and purchase all kinds of vintage. 1955:206/206 complete 1956: 298/341 complete 1957: just starting 1958:515/534 complete; 1 base, 2 numerical checklists and 16 yellow letters 1959: 513/572 1959 PSA 6: 40/572 1965: 352/598 1966: 447/598 1967: /609 1968: /598 1969: 562/664 1970: 635/720 1971: 717/752 |
#3
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Have fun collecting! |
#4
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Thanks guys for the advice, this really helps.
It's like last night I was looking and thinking about buying a 69 Topps-Kareem rookie PSA-6 that was really nice for around $290. But then I started to look at a PSA-7 that was about $500 and I could not decide which direction to go. Now the PSA-8 is easily $2,000+ so I kind of wrote that off, b/c with the volume I plan on buying at it would just be too expensive to start buying like that. But I could go 6 or 7 and the whole idea of do I go higher or lower came into play and lead to me seeking advice. Overall I'm looking to buy a LOT of the major stars RC so for example in football (Brady, Manning, Montana, Rice, Elway, Marino, Sanders, Walter Payton, Jim Brown, Bart Star, Johnny Unitas, etc.) Of course I'll be buying the most in cards in baseball but I think you see where I'm going with this. Major players from current back to the 50's and maybe later. With that said unless I want to have like 60K invested in cards (which I don't) I'm going to have to be in the less than 1K (maybe mid hundreds) price range for a lot of these. However I will go over 1K for the really elite RC cards (Aaron, Mays, Clemente, Rose, Nolan Ryan, MJ, etc.) Ok sorry for rambling on, but to the point I'm now leaning towards going with the higher grade versus lower so the Montana 9 versus the 8, the Kareem 7 versus the 6, etc. . Not looking to spend multiple 1,000s on any one card (unless it's one of the very few really elite cards) but working in that range. I have to say I really love collecting, I don't what it is but I absolutely love the whole process and collecting these cards I dreamed of owning growing up! |
#5
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also rememeber there are more people out there who can pay 200 dollars on a card and not worry that they could save 10 dollars..versus people having 500 dollars....so maybe bigger value cards you have a chance to make more money but with less possible people to buy it takes longer..
also realize when you buy a card at an auction...you already are the one that was willing to pay top dollar.....if there are several unique bidders above a certain price point..thats the price point in which you can sell it back ..so realize that the more you want a card..the less of a chance someone will want the card as much as you price wise..but again..if its 100 bucks..people can pay that if dont love the card cause its 100 versus 500 ... |
#6
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But overall a good thought, I don't want to get over zealous and over buy on grade when I could be perfectly happy and safe in the happy medium. Thanks |
#7
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1. Collect what you love
2. Buy the card, not the holder(grade) I started with Mantle, and changed my focus over to RC's. As mentioned, you can find better cards in lower grades with better centering. (you can ask MattyC, as he is our so-called resident for finding centered cards- as hes been really hot on the subject) There are people with $$$, spending it so freely to maintain a top registry grade. You gotta find what kind of collector you are and stick with it, whether its a set builder or team/player collector and etc.
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1916-20 UNC Big Heads Need: Ping Bodie |
#8
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In regards to you buying a PSA 6 Alcindor/Jabbar rookie compared to a PSA 7. I jumped back into collecting earlier this year and initially went with the PSA 7. I remember reading somewhere to buy the highest grade you can afford. Just like you I was not willing to shell out 2k plus for PSA 8 Jabbar rookie and settled for the 7. Then one day I realized that my 7 did not look near as good as this PSA 6 that I was looking at. I eventually sold my 7 and purchased the 6 because it was more appealing to my eye. I would suggest that you do your homework before buying any of your mid to high-end rookies. Look at the VCP data. If you have not joined I would suggest that you do. I have used it and it has paid for itself already. Don't just look at the prices on VCP but look at images that have sold. The image can tell you a lot about why that PSA 7 went for the price it did (centering, sharp corners, etc..) If you are patient you can get some good buys which means you will be able to potentially resell without taking a big hit. I was able to resell my PSA 7 and break about even (adding in Ebay fees). It is safe to say that what you think you really like today can and most likely will change at some point. This has been my experience. Take it for what is worth. One persons opinion. Good luck and most importantly enjoy the journey. |
#9
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#10
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Past transactions with ALR-Bishop, Fleerfan, Leerob538, Northviewcats, wondo, EconTeachert205 "Collectors were supposedly enjoying the pure hobby of baseball card collecting, but they were also concerned with the monetary value of their collections." House of Cards by John Bloom, 1997. |
#11
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That was a great and practical point that a card may be worth a lot in book value, but since most collectors won't be able to afford it it can be hard to find a buyer.
In past years, I not only never had trouble selling a grade poor 1933 Goudey Babe Ruth (as example), but I often got far more than book value for it. Why? Because lots of normal collectors want that card, but usually can't afford it. So when a low grade example comes up, then is their chance to finally get one and you get lots of interest/bidding. |
#12
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Ruth, Mantle, Gehrig, Williams, etc will ALWAYS sell .....
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Neal Successful transactions with Brian Dwyer, Peter Spaeth, raulus, ghostmarcelle, Howard Chasser, jewishcollector, Phil Garry, Don Hontz, JStottlemire, maj78, bcbgcbrcb, secondhandwatches, esehobmbre, Leon, Jetsfan, Brian Van Horn, MGHPro, DeanH, canofcorn, Zigger Zagger, conor912, RayBShotz, Jay Wolt, AConte, Halbig Vintage and many others https://www.youtube.com/@Coach_Neal |
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