![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
While PSA has the least attractive case, they have the strictest grading standards. This is not to say they don't make mistakes. But I find them to be the toughest graders and also the most consistent, as much as a grading company can be considered consistent.
__________________
Actively collecting Carl Yastrzemski ! Also 1964 & 68 Topps Venezuelans |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I guess people have forgotten the SGC damaged cards problems last year where their pretty black gaskets were coming apart and cards were getting stuck between them, damaging the surface?
And BVG stopped providing the subgrades, but are more forgiving on OC and MC and MK and OF than getting the PSA code added. I like PSA, but I'm not sure they're the right answer for most often grading the card at the most accurate levels. I guess if money was no object, I would damage brand new (MT) cards in the same ways and submit them to each service to run a test on their services. If every one denotes the card with a pinhole as a 1, and a light scratch as a 7, and a heavy crease as a 2, and a surface wrinkle as a 5, and a light corner ding as an 8/8.5, then it wouldn't really matter. I guess if I didn't care whether or not the cards graded a certain way or wanted them to appraise higher, why get them graded at all?
__________________
-- PWCC: The Fish Stinks From the Head PSA: Regularly Get Cheated BGS: Can't detect trimming on modern SGC: Closed auto authentication business JSA: Approved same T206 Autos before SGC Oh, what a difference a year makes. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I've only sent in 15 or 20 cards for grading, all to PSA, because I got a Christmas present of a membership 10 years ago, and used my free subs.
If I ever decide to sell my collection, I'd send the post war Hall of Famers to PSA that are higher grade, just because of the registry so they get a higher price. I don't know what company I'd use for the pre war cards. My guess is that they all do about the same job, accurate 98% of the time, with slightly varying standards regarding centering, paper loss, etc... |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
In my opinion, there is literally no right or wrong answer to the question. All three companies are highly regarded, and all three have made huge mistakes in the past. If it really boils down to accurate grading and long term protection follow the guidance given above and pick the most aesthetically pleasing holder of the three. It's not the prettiest answer, but fairly accurate.
__________________
Always looking for rare Tommy Bridges items. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
In My limited experience
PSA-If you want the highest value SGC-If you want the highest grade BVG- If you want the highest weight, to clunk someone over the head
__________________
"Trolling Ebay right now" © Always looking for signed 1952 topps as well as variations and errors |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
#1 PSA
#2 SGC #3 by a large margin BGS/BVG |
![]() |
|
|