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#1
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For as low a cost as possible for an insured value you are comfortable with. If you need to be charged more they will contact you. If you overpay you are doubtful to be refunded.
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#2
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Lots of good advice, I have had thousands of cards graded and only one time got a call that my value was off. Be fair but i also usually value it 1-2 points lower than what I think it will grade (which to me is more the raw value).
I also highly recommend sending in a trial 10 card or so sub just to get a feel. Most first time subs get hammered (mine was brutal) as you over estimate the condition, estimate grades first, send them in then when returned re-examined see where they differed. I also highly recommend getting a 10 x loupe and a black-light to help judge condition better. I prefer SGC for my collection as I think they are more consistent and a ton easier to submit to, I use PSA for 1950's and newer cards I plan to flip/sell (SGC for all pre war). Good luck! |
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#3
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SMTJOY
Good points all. There seems to be a somewhat prevailing belief that PSA is better for post war, SGC for older stuff. As for a loop and black light, you're right even though I hate to go there. I did buy a lot of raw stuff years ago and am disappointed that so many are 'A'. Back in Teletrade days, you couldn't break a seal to examine, and general trust was higher (maybe not deserved!). |
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#4
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+1 Good advice
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__________________
Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
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