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#1
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For protection purposes alone, I would get them graded... Also if you ever decided to sell for , it would be much easier, and most likely get top dollar! Good luck
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#2
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If the were centered and sharpe I would never put them in a binder.and if I never thought I would sell them I would say a top loader, penny sleeve, and team bag would do the trick.
__________________
Just a collector that likes to talk and read about the Hobby. 🤓👍🏼 |
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#3
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Grade the HOFers and use Card Savers in 4 pocket sheets for the rest
Last edited by toppcat; 03-26-2017 at 04:49 PM. |
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#4
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Thanks for the input!
So even keeping them raw, l shouldn't keep them in 9 pocket sheets in a binder? I have noticed that the cards move around alot. |
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#5
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Quote:
Wait till PSA has a $6 / card monthly special. Good Luck with your sale ! |
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#6
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Ignore this advice. The SMR price guide is a joke.
__________________
Actively collecting Carl Yastrzemski ! Also 1964 & 68 Topps Venezuelans |
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#7
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Grade the superstars and the key rookies to start and see what you've really got. If they pan out then consider some of the other cards. But definitely move to Cardsaver I and four pocket sheets. Niners are an invitation to creases and dings.
__________________
Read my blog; it will make all your dreams come true. https://adamstevenwarshaw.substack.com/ Or not... |
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#8
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Thanks for all of the input.
Cards are out the binders. |
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#9
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I think maybe all that was meant is that SMR would help identify anything that was higher value than common, if one doesn't recognize all 'star' but not super-star names on one's own, not that the SMR is useful for the true value...
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#10
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I don't mean to hijack this thread, but I assume my question isn't pressing enough to warrant its own thread.
When it comes to binder sheets, since they are well known to degrade over time, what would be an optimal time frame for replacing the sheets? It would be an arduous undertaking for someone who has multiple binders, with hundreds of pages, but for someone, like myself, who does not have the money for grading, nor the desire to put each individual card in it's own top loader, it would probably be more economical to just replace the sheets every so often. |
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#11
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I mean this in a positive way - your high grade cards will stay high grade if you leave them ungraded.
And what I mean by this is that if you've never done it before, prepare for disappointment. Not every time, but enough to make a person upset, especially your first time. My advice would be to send in your best single card from the set and your worst - grade them hard yourself, based on the standards of whoever you're sending them to, and put down what you thought before sending them in writing. See where they come in and go from there - if they're a 9 and a 8, send them all in! If this is for your own enjoyment, even more so. If not and you intend to sell, then maybe grade the biggest stars and state they are representative of the condition of the set. Grading costs reduce profit margins significantly. So choose wisely what works best for you... If you just want protection, you can get pretty nice snap holders now that protect the card from moving inside and stack neatly for storage for pretty cheap in bulk. Make your own labels and have fun with it... Cheers, Tim PS - I have some cards graded from time to time (SGC) despite knowing that they're never coming back high grade - so take my advice with a grain of salt. For me, I like testing myself as a grader of my own cards - and 3-5 is not usually worth grading for Post-War cards, especially commons (unless they're very rare commons). |
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#12
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Personally, I would do as Timbegs said. Send in your best and your worst to see where they stand. With your commons, I would use sleeves and top loaders or the snap loaders as mentioned.
__________________
52 Topps cards. https://www.flickr.com/photos/144160280@N05/ http://www.net54baseball.com/album.php?albumid=922 |
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#13
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Grade the stars, and cardsaver 1's for the commons.
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