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Guys, Recount... I have about 8300 commons haha. Majority late 60's early 70's. All in pages and binders. over 1000 1969 cards in great shape over 600 1960 topps cards over 600 1966 topps cards and a mix of 300-600 of each other year So about 300 61's 300 62's etc. I'd want 4K-5K in trade. You think that is unreasonable? Figure theres gotta be at least 12K resale when broken up.
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www.TopTierCollectibles.com https://www.facebook.com/groups/TopT...aseballBreaks/ <------- DAILY CONTESTS www.Instagram.com/TopTierCollectibles www.Twitter.com/TopTierCollect http://stores.ebay.com/InsideGrandmasAttic Last edited by EYECOLLECTVINTAGE; 04-08-2017 at 07:23 AM. |
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#3
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I agree with the 10% ratio.
And to be honest, even at that rate I think most dealers would decline. The space needed, time and work involved, and once the best of the best was gone... there would be a lot of valueless "residue" left over that would never sell. |
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#4
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Oh it would all sell. Everything sells for a price.
.....it's just that the price could be cards for literally a few cents (or less) each.
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Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
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#5
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And even if they did sell, how long would it take to reap in those pennies per card? |
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I have 6000 or more decent commons, hof'ers and stars from the 50s-60s I have been selling at shows for the last year. I am not buying many more of those right now and I have reverted to going back to more pre-war buying and selling .
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Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
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#7
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The 70's are in VG-ex to ex. The 69's are the same Every thing in the 60's is VG some better some worse 50's is good some better some worse |
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#8
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1970s commons in VG-EX are low grade. As are 1960s commons in only VG or worse... I honestly think most dealers wouldn't touch it... but if that's the route you try and go, I wish you the best of luck. Brent |
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#9
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I no longer deal, but I once did extensively. There are times you just look at a deal and say, " That won't work." Even at 10% of your estimated value if I am a dealer and I have $1000 worth of high end (let's say a Cobb Red background, but if you are trying to boil it down to one or two cards, it's going to be high end and sellable cards or else considerably overpriced) inventory versus a monster box of commons, the fact that you can sell one card versus having to lug around the monster box for years, you'll keep the single card. There is a chance that you might find a dealer who has an expensive but slow selling card he has had in inventory forever that he sees as if he sees as inventory he is going to be buried with that he might trade. You would probably be best off to move them as lots on eBay or BST. Even then it's not going to be easy to get to 40% or book value, IMO. The exception is if you peel out the high numbers. The 1961s and 1966s if in any condition at all will do well. Sadly there's not that much demand for the 1969s, which I think is a fun set. Please note, I am often wrong, but I think you are in a position to either do the work yourself or settle for literally pennies on the dollar.
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I'm not a dealer so prob not. If I was and I had slow moving inventory and the clients that want to set build it would be a no brainer. If I knew I could get .75 a card on average in person it's worth it to me. I just don't have the client base. I'd prob do 3k trade as a dealer if I knew over 2-3 years I'd triple up in exchange for a card I've been sitting on anyways |
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#13
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A dealer wouldn't triple his money... He'd barely break even. |
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#14
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If they show wear, then, IMO, you will have to take what you get. get a few graded or post a few on here of the general condition. You'll get some better assessments. |
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