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#1
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Just a dad trying to figure out how to build a collection his kids will take interest in. Interests: HoF, Grover Hartley, Cleveland, Jim Thome, Jose Ramirez, Akron Zips, Historically Significant Figures Cooperstown Project Progress: 194/351 - 55.27% Follow along and see what I need here. YouTube Channel: Collecting America's Pastime |
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#2
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Do you really feel as comfortable paying an eBay seller you do not know four figures or more for a card as you do Heritage or REA? Hats off to you if that's the case.
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#3
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I don't feel any safer going with auction companies because as stated above, they are largely greedy. What wouldn't they do for money if they are gonna charge the buyer an outrageous tax/fee just so they can get the consignor to consign more stuff? Haven't there been threads about cards that get doctored or restored by these auction companies (if I'm mistaken I apologize)?
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Just a dad trying to figure out how to build a collection his kids will take interest in. Interests: HoF, Grover Hartley, Cleveland, Jim Thome, Jose Ramirez, Akron Zips, Historically Significant Figures Cooperstown Project Progress: 194/351 - 55.27% Follow along and see what I need here. YouTube Channel: Collecting America's Pastime Last edited by CollectingAmericasPastime; 06-06-2017 at 10:10 PM. |
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#4
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This isn't hard. I don't know why people can't grasp this simple concept. As a buyer you are paying what you pay. Whether the AH calls part of it a premium or not is meaningless. They could charge a 50 percent premium and it comes to the same thing -- just factor it into the bid like (almost
) everyone else does. If you win a card and your out of pocket is 100 dollars, what do you care if they called 20 of it or 50 of it a BP?The one it affects is the consignor, who only gets the hammer price.
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Four phrases I nave coined that sum up today's hobby: No consequences. Stuff trumps all. The flip is the commoodity. Animal Farm grading. Last edited by Peter_Spaeth; 06-06-2017 at 10:33 PM. |
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#5
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When I bid in Heritage I also have to pay NY sales tax, so a $1.00 bid ends up costing me around $1.30. So I bid accordingly. If I think a lot is worth $1000, I'll max out my bid around $700-750. No big deal, it's just a calculation. I don't win as many lots as I like but if I keep at it I usually get what I am looking for eventually. I'm disciplined and patient. |
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#6
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My original post is complaining about the S/H more than the BP. I know what the BP is before bidding and I factor that in. I am upset about the outrageous S/H fees that AH's tag on to your order.
The example that I talked about was a small order of $76 but most of my orders are in the thousands. I know what it cost to ship items because I've been doing it for 14 years. I understand being charged a little more to compensate for their time and materials. But I have been charged 2 to 3 times more than the regular rate by many A/H's. I blame myself because I continue do business with these AH's even thou they overcharged me in the past. There are enough good AH's out there who are fair in their S/H rates and I will continue doing business with them. |
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#7
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Assuming this is Heritage, while I understand the frustration of being charged a premium for the shipping over cost, at least they make it possible for you to determine their shipping charges as the methodology is listed on their website. As a result, like the buyers premium, you can factor that into your bids to determine your total cost. Now some other auction houses, such as Hunt's (see Leon's recent thread), where the shipping is not disclosed, those are the ones I really hate bidding on and generally error on the side of caution before bidding.
DJ
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Current Wantlist: E92 Nadja - Bescher, Chance, Cobb, Donovan, Doolan, Dougherty, Doyle (with bat), Lobert, Mathewson, Miller (fielding), Tinker, Wagner (throwing), Zimmerman E/T Young Backrun - Need E90-1 E92 Red Crofts - Anyone especially Barry and Shean |
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#8
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